I'm a bit of a newb when it comes to band saw stuff... What are some good brands out there for band saw blades that you guys are using, or what should I be looking for in a good blade? The ones that came with the saw do the job alright, but I don't like how there seems to be a "hard spot" where it's welded together and it seems to kind of skip whenever it hits it. I'm guessing it's because it's just a cheap blade, but again, I don't know wtf I'm talking about. Lol. Just curious what everyone else out there is running. Thanks ladies and gents

 

we get more than enough cuts from the harbor freight blades, they are cheap when you need to replace them. in my opinion the key is lubrication...design some sort of "cooling" squirter system that dumps a bit of cutting oil while the saw is on....or at least use a bit of wd40 while cutting thicker materials. you wont believe how much a bit of wd40 extends the blade life.

 

What TPI are you using? SCH10? I'm getting much better results using a M42 bi-metal blade...has cut plenty of collectors dry and has not dulled at all yet.

 

i would like to know as well. always curious to what tpi people use. im using a 14 and doesnt seem to work well at all. this is on sch 10 304l pipe.

 

we have a pretty big dayton (I believe) at work . . . 6tpi.

Cuts through exhaust pipe, cylinder heads, and everything inbetween.

We use some zep fluid for coolant.

 

I buy Starrett hardback blades. They cost a bit more but really last. The TPI and tooth profile is based on the material you are cutting and the thickness. Try MSC direct or someone like that, find the right blade and buy two. I have two of those saws and have been using the same blade, every day for at least a year.

Listen to what the tool is telling you. If it's making sparks, slow it down, if it is making more dust that chips, increase the drop speed. You should have at least two teeth contacting the material at once. I buy rolls of band saw blade and make my own but you will need to measure yours (thickness/width/pitch/length) and find something close, but refined to suit your needs. stainless is pretty badazz stuff. I suggest a quality hardback with a pretty fine profile and a dark cutting oil. When a blade loses a couple of teeth, it;s junk, move on.

 

My machine has a water cooling setup, and I'm using synthetic cutting fluid as well. I'm using a 14 TPI blade right now, and mainly cutting 16 gauge stainless pipe, and some 1/8th inch walled aluminum tube. Not worried about the aluminum at all, but I'm on the fence about going up to an 18 TPI blade for the stainless. I was always told as a rule of thumb to have at least 3 teeth cutting on the workpiece. Is using a higher TPI blade than what you need for a cut bad at all, or is it just considered overkill?

 

The smaller teeth can get loaded up with a chip when you drag it across a wide cut(thick material). I would go with 18tpi for cutting 16 ga. 14 will tend to hook a tooth and then its finished. Best place to get blades that I have found is Specialty Saw you can find them online. I have been getting my stuff from them for about 20 years.
1-800-225-0772
Specialty Saw, Inc.
30 Wolcott Road, Simsbury, CT 06070 USA
Voice: (860) 658-4419 ~ Fax: (860) 651-5358

 

I've been using the same blade for the last 8 months, and it's still going strong. The only thing I cut with it is stainless pipe, and some tube. I use a 14 TPI bi-metal blade. I just cut everything really slow. It takes me about 4-5 minutes to make a cut in a 1-1/4" SCH 10 piece.