tps question
ok i dont know if this is normal or not but i got a check engine light code 6 which is a tps. but me and my buddy put in a new tps and still have that code. so we mess around and even with the tps off the throttle body the car idle perfectly fine, which my buddy said that it was weird cause without the tps the motor should idle rough and idle up and down...so i was wondering if anyone ever come across that problem....
ok i dont know if this is normal or not but i got a check engine light code 6 which is a tps. but me and my buddy put in a new tps and still have that code. so we mess around and even with the tps off the throttle body the car idle perfectly fine, which my buddy said that it was weird cause without the tps the motor should idle rough and idle up and down...so i was wondering if anyone ever come across that problem....
When I was having TPS codes, my car would buck really bad sometimes and bog down. When this happened I had to unplug it, it didn't idle rough, just really high (2k rpms). I replaced the whole TB as directed by the head mechanic at my local Honda dealer, but still no go. I eventually solved my problems (after trying 1 million other things) by simply unplugging the ecu for a bit, then plugging it back in. Weird I know, especially since I had already reset it by removing the battery lead.
just to make something clear. the code you got was for a fault in the tps circuit, the computer cant tell if the tps is bad or if theres a problem in the wiring or if the computer is sending the wrong signal.........all it knows is that its not getting the right signal back(and maybe high or low voltage)..........troubleshoot, dont just throw parts at it.
now one wire to the tps should read around 5v KOEO(key on engine off) another wire should be ground(use a voltage drop test as opposed to continuity for this), and the last wire should be the signal wire that changes voltage from about .45v at closed throttle to about 4.5v at full throttle.
for these tests you need to connect the tps and back probe the wires.
for the 5v backprobe that wire and put the other meter lead to the neg battery terminal, you should get about 5v
for the ground backprobe the wire and put the other lead to the neg battery terminal, you should get right at 0v, a few mV is ok, but not much
for the signal backprobe the wire and put the other lead to battery neg, you should get somewhere between .45v and 4.5v depending on throttle position.
thats where to start, if the 5v or ground is out of spec then you have to check the harness, if the signal is out you are looking at a bad tps most likely.
now one wire to the tps should read around 5v KOEO(key on engine off) another wire should be ground(use a voltage drop test as opposed to continuity for this), and the last wire should be the signal wire that changes voltage from about .45v at closed throttle to about 4.5v at full throttle.
for these tests you need to connect the tps and back probe the wires.
for the 5v backprobe that wire and put the other meter lead to the neg battery terminal, you should get about 5v
for the ground backprobe the wire and put the other lead to the neg battery terminal, you should get right at 0v, a few mV is ok, but not much
for the signal backprobe the wire and put the other lead to battery neg, you should get somewhere between .45v and 4.5v depending on throttle position.
thats where to start, if the 5v or ground is out of spec then you have to check the harness, if the signal is out you are looking at a bad tps most likely.
the car drive down the road just fine like how every other car should. even with the tps code on. it doesnt bog or buck at all. and it idle at 1k rpm. which it normally should idle at 600 or 800 if i remember correctly, correct me if im wrong tho. could i might have a bad ecu?
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