i understand the engine has to be cold. i have my angle feeler gauges. and i have the lash diagram under my hood. i know that the exhaust valves are towards the front and intakes rear. and the order starts from up, 9, 6, 3. starting cylinders order 1,3,4,2 ?

my question is can i remove the spark plugs and crank by the power steering pulley? also, when its time to do a cylinder, do i finish both exhaust and intake valves? so theres 4 valves per cylinder, which one do i start first? and if i am replacing my valve cover gasket, do i need the gasket sealant?

thanks

 

anyone here did it without a torque wrench? it says 14lbs per bolt.

 

Get a repair manual.
You must crank the engine by the crank shaft. Intake and exhaust must be done one at a time. because they open and close at their own time. Gasket sealant is not necessary but if you use it use just enough and let it dry.

 

Valves are adjusted cylinder per cylinder: for eac cyl. crankshaft is rotated till the piston is at TDC (camshaft pulley has marks), then the 4 valves for that cyl. are adjusted.
I use a socket wrench on the power steering pulley to rotate the crankshaft: works fine even without removing spark plugs.

 

this is the video i got that idea from turning the crank from the PS pulley.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P7wI4EtZSaA

so if im understanding you correctly, im suppose to adjust 4 valves at once when "that" cylinder is at TDC (i.e. adjust the exhaust then adjust the intake)? and then move on to next cylinder?

i removed the spark plugs cuz i thought it would loosed up pressure in the cylinder, but im not sure on that. i used a wrench and its smooth and easy to turn the crank right there.

 

That's what the manual says: position piston at TDC, then adjust the 4 valves for that cyl.
You're right about removing or loosening the spark plugs: this would make rotating the crank easier. But like you said its smooth even without removing spark plugs.

 

you meant you said it was smooth without removing plugs. i didnt say that lol. thanks for the input.

one more thing, say im doing the exhaust and it calls for .30mm and if i stick a .40mm gauge in there, it SHOULD NOT be able to clear, right?

thanks in advance

 

The 0.30 must fit 'with a slight amount of drag', the gap will be too small to insert the 0.40 at all. Some gauge sets also have the 0.25, 0.35 etc for finer measurements. (check your PM inbox).