650w amp, two generic dual 10s, and i nvr really keep it cranked just here n there, i have tho
, noticed my startups gettin a bit rougher, but it's gettin colder out too tho, what ya guys think

 

I've been running 2 12s and an 800 watt amp for 8 years on mine with no problems.

How's your battery?

 

might want to look at a wire upgrade or a second battery if you're concerned. of course, it might not be necessary, but it won't hurt, especially for the future
can thank edzy for finding these
http://www.b20vtec.com/forums/audio-...6-big-3-a.html
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=398527

 

-thanks!
i believe it's due to b replaced, cuz anytime i turn my lights on, wipers, stereo ect...or press the brake pedal the car bogs to like 300-400rpm then comes back to normal idle....

 

i have 2 kickers with 1500 watt amp in my em1, and after a while my battery took a dump on me, i replaced it with a yellow optimum and havnt had a problem since!

 

nawww

 

lol well u infact get what u pay for, optimums are like 170+, but thanks guys, and i'll just get the battery tested and go from there, also i hrd a 2nd battery doens't help at all....anyways about the idle drop when an accesory is applied, any ideas??

 

Actually, the question is not whether or not you will hurt just your alternator, but your entire electrical system. It sounds like your battery is starting to lose capacity. What I would do would be to take your battery out, take it to an AutoZone, O'Reilly or similar auto parts store, and have it load-tested and fully charged. Then, while the battery is out of your car being charged and tested, you can clean the terminals and check the cables and connections coming from the battery for both the starter (+) and the ground (-) cables. Make sure all connections are clean metal-no rust, etc. Especially make sure your ground is short-common problem on a lot of cars. Then, with your fresh battery back in the car, have your electrical system tested to verify that your alternator is operating within spec, as well as checking for proper load from the starter. Although some people think that just unplugging the positive cable from the battery while the engine is running indicates a good alternator, it's actually not a good idea. All that would tell you is that it's making 12 volts to keep the vehicle running-this means nothing. 12 volts is barely enough to keep the engine running, much less charge a battery while driving and supply back-up power for the sound system. normal charging voltage with engine running should be around 13.5-14.5 volts measured at the battery. After all this has been verified, and problems are still occuring, you could try investing in a power capacitor to reduce the drain on your electrical system. A power capacitor provides additional power for the vehicle when the demand exceeds what the alternator can provide. These "caps" are measured in "farads" of power. As a general rule of thumb, you can run .5 farad for every 500 watts of power your amplifier would require. For example, I had 2 1200w amplifiers in my Del Sol pushing 4 12" MBQuart subwoofers in a custom box with a 2 farad power cap, with a bone stock Honda alternator, and a regulator Autolite 450CCA 51R-84 battery for well over 1 year and had zero problems turning the stereo up nearly every day. Hope this helps answer some questions!!!!!!

 

Yeah I agree, a wire upgrade should be help run the power smoother all around.

 

because your alternator is trying to compensate for the extra electrical load, and an alternator charges/runs accesories by bumping up or down a magnetic field, stronger the field= stronger the charge, but that also takes away hp or idle speed because it's harder to spin.

hope that answers it