how can i adjust idle.
i have a d15b swap and as i drive i throw into netural my rev hangs around 1500 but once i come to a complete stop it drops to 1000 but it should be at like 850 or something like that. do u guys no how i can solve this problem.
there is an idle adjustment screw on the intake manifold/throttle body someawheres. the haynes manual can inform you of it or you could google idle adjustment screw d15 motor.
or you could wait for someone to post up an answer.
if I remember from my d15 motor there was a small black rubber doohicky over the screw so you couldn't see it with the naked eye.
or you could wait for someone to post up an answer.
if I remember from my d15 motor there was a small black rubber doohicky over the screw so you couldn't see it with the naked eye.
i tried adjusting the screw before if i turn it left my idle goes higher if i turn it right it lowers a lil but not how it should be. its all the way closed right now.and when its closed the car should turn off but it dosent it stays on and idle kinda high, any suggestions on what to do
something else is the problem then if the idle screw can't bring the idle down where it belongs. It should be somewheres around 700rpm, it's in your haynes manual.
sounds like the IACV needs some cleaning..
sounds like the IACV needs some cleaning..

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...highlight=IACV
or this
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...ht=how+to+IACV
Last edited by heeltoehonda; Dec 28, 2009 at 09:24 AM.
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check your distributor timing their are threw 10mm bolts that you can loosen and move the distributor to the center as best as possible.
If that's not the case check your timing
If that's not the case check your timing
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 210
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From: Over the mountain and down in the valley
The FITV can also screw up your idle. If it's staying open it will constantly let more air in. I had this problem in the past. It can usually be disassembled, cleaned and adjusted. There is a write up on it here somewhere. I'm my particular case one of the bolts that keeps it closed had been broken off in the past so the plunger was full of at least 5 years including winters of road grime. I replaced it and life was good again. The situation was so bad that when sitting at idle the engine would be noticeably fighting the brakes (it's an automagic).
The FITV can also screw up your idle. If it's staying open it will constantly let more air in. I had this problem in the past. It can usually be disassembled, cleaned and adjusted. There is a write up on it here somewhere. I'm my particular case one of the bolts that keeps it closed had been broken off in the past so the plunger was full of at least 5 years including winters of road grime. I replaced it and life was good again. The situation was so bad that when sitting at idle the engine would be noticeably fighting the brakes (it's an automagic).
9 times out of 10 it will be either the IACV or FITV.
Could possible be a vaccum leak also but most likely not.
To check that just get a can of brake or carb cleaner and spray all of your hoses, if the idle changes when you hit a certain hose replace that hose
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 210
Likes: 1
From: Over the mountain and down in the valley
You tried all that was recommended in 3 hours? It takes a while to just get the FITV on and off. Are you sure you adjusted it properly? If your throttle is completely closed, your IACV and FITV are working, you have no vacuum leaks and you have a STEADY idle that's too high you car is haunted because it's creating combustion without oxygen.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 210
Likes: 1
From: Over the mountain and down in the valley
try cleaning out the iacv or the fitv. if that doesnt help then adjust the idle screw. still doesnt help check to see if the throttle cable is to tight or loose or if u have a vacuum leAK some where. and if that dont help try adjusting your dizzy back and fourth. like retarded or advance.
slack in your throttle cable wouldn't make your car idle high, it would make a bit of lag from when you step on it to when you accelerate, because you must take up the slack in the line with your foot.
according to the manual, you should have 1/2 inch of slack in your throttle cable from side to side.
I dunno wtf your prob is if you've checked all vacuum lines, FITV, IACV, throttle cable, and fcuked with timing on your dizzy. Though I don't think advanced/retarded timing would mess up your idle speeds...
best of luck finding the ghost in the machine.
according to the manual, you should have 1/2 inch of slack in your throttle cable from side to side.
I dunno wtf your prob is if you've checked all vacuum lines, FITV, IACV, throttle cable, and fcuked with timing on your dizzy. Though I don't think advanced/retarded timing would mess up your idle speeds...
best of luck finding the ghost in the machine.
I had a problem with my idle and after all the cleaning and adjusting (which I didnt mind) it turned out to be a vacuum leak on the cruise control vacuum tube that goes to the intake manifold. A high idle is caused by too much air. Are you sure you followed the proper idle adjustment procedure, because you have to warm up your engine and unplug the IAC valve before adjusting the idle.
I had a problem with my idle and after all the cleaning and adjusting (which I didnt mind) it turned out to be a vacuum leak on the cruise control vacuum tube that goes to the intake manifold. A high idle is caused by too much air. Are you sure you followed the proper idle adjustment procedure, because you have to warm up your engine and unplug the IAC valve before adjusting the idle.
What's the proper idle adjustment procedure?
I've heard a few different ways but whats the right way?


