Stripping paint off plastic/ABS- What to use
I have acquired a full "Inspired Motorsports" ABS urethane lip kit for my TL.. the only problem is that it has been painted a few different colors prior and the paint is now chipping and flaking off due to lack of prep.
My question is what is the best way to go about stripping the paint off completely without harming the abs?
I have done alot of research and I have been told the following:
(1) Soak in Simple Green- Supposedly works well, but takes forever. Plus I do not have a container large enough to submerge a side skirt or front lip..
(2) A product called Castrol Super Clean. Same with this. I heard it works better than Simple Green and works more quickly.. In most cases, half the time. Same situation though.. I cant actually soak my kit in the product bc its so large
(3) Brake fluid. I have heard to use DOT3 and also heard to use DOT4. I heard it works very well, but can take a very long time to even put a dent in some clearcoats.
I have been told to use Lacquer thinner, but I know better. It will most likely soften and damage the abs and I dont want that to happen.
I have been told to use Aircraft stripper, but thats too harsh on plastics as well.. big no no
Also been told to sandblast, but do not want to damage in any way, shape, or form
So overall I am just looking for the most effective, cost-effective, and easiest to work with solution to removing paint on ABS plastics.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
My question is what is the best way to go about stripping the paint off completely without harming the abs?
I have done alot of research and I have been told the following:
(1) Soak in Simple Green- Supposedly works well, but takes forever. Plus I do not have a container large enough to submerge a side skirt or front lip..
(2) A product called Castrol Super Clean. Same with this. I heard it works better than Simple Green and works more quickly.. In most cases, half the time. Same situation though.. I cant actually soak my kit in the product bc its so large
(3) Brake fluid. I have heard to use DOT3 and also heard to use DOT4. I heard it works very well, but can take a very long time to even put a dent in some clearcoats.
I have been told to use Lacquer thinner, but I know better. It will most likely soften and damage the abs and I dont want that to happen.
I have been told to use Aircraft stripper, but thats too harsh on plastics as well.. big no no
Also been told to sandblast, but do not want to damage in any way, shape, or form
So overall I am just looking for the most effective, cost-effective, and easiest to work with solution to removing paint on ABS plastics.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
For abs plastic you can get aircraft stripper made for plastics, but you have to do it in small sections. If it soaks in the plastic to long it will ruin your lip or bumper. After getting as much paint off with the stripper you have to wash as soon as possible with dishwashing soap, make sure you clean the hell out of it. After it dries you can get some 220 grit wet and work on getting the rest of the paint off, then work your way up too 400 grit wet if you plan on primeing it, if not go to 600 wet and(of course wash it again and before you paint do not use any solvent based cleaner on the plastic, only use waterborn cleaner or plastic cleaner or just wash it with soap and water) just seal it then paint it. Hope this helps pm me with any other questions.
uhh sand paper lol...sand it down with 280 then 320, 400 and finish in 600..prime and paint.. the plastic will fuzz a bit but 3 coats of SEM flex primer and it will sand smooth.
wont harm the plastic at all, mis-shape it or anything unless you go too far.. just be careful, it will be fine. dont use chemicals on it, as it will just attack the plastic causing alot of unnecessary problems.
wont harm the plastic at all, mis-shape it or anything unless you go too far.. just be careful, it will be fine. dont use chemicals on it, as it will just attack the plastic causing alot of unnecessary problems.
sand it with 180 to make sure everything is feather-edged nicely, then primer with about 2 coats of a 2k primer, then sand again with 180 (blocked as much as possible) primer 2 more coats of 2k, then sand with 400 (blocked again as much as possible), clean and paint
sand it with 180 to make sure everything is feather-edged nicely, then primer with about 2 coats of a 2k primer, then sand again with 180 (blocked as much as possible) primer 2 more coats of 2k, then sand with 400 (blocked again as much as possible), clean and paint
2k primer??
Can you explain? Is this a brand? I initially thought you were saying 2000 grit, but re-read and have no idea.
Sorry for the lack of knowledge
Can you explain? Is this a brand? I initially thought you were saying 2000 grit, but re-read and have no idea.
Sorry for the lack of knowledge
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If your a production shop you worry about extra steps and extra materials. If you want a show quality job you do it right and put in the time and material. Do it the long way and it will pay off in the end with a perfect job.
wasting materials is right? wow thats what im doing wrong! seriously if done properly, not only is the way i suggested alot faster, but alot more inexpensive (especially when its coming out of your own wallet) and gives the exact same result. thanks for playing.
A Quart of 2k primer is less than $30.00 so if that is gonna break you then you shouldnt be doing the work to begin with. Your way doesnt give the same results. But guess your not as picky as me.
i know the cost of primer, and if you read what was posted, i said if done 'correctly' my way gives the same results, meaning using guidecoat if necessary to remove all coarse scratches. As far as pickyness.. you may be picky, but faar from the level i am. Turns out once the piece is sanded (after being primed once!) adhesion promoted, sealed, based and cleared.. your never going to tell if the person primed once or 15 times. Again, providing it has been prepped properly.
I can tell trust me. I can pick apart almost any job. I do it at every show. The point of primering with 2k twice is to to fill in any scratches that were to deep to be sanded out when u blocked out the guide coat. 180grit is to coarse to be filled with 2 coats of 2k primer. After shooting the part the 2nd time and spraying a guide coat I would suggest something finer along the line of 320-400wet. This will make sure everything is uniform and all sandscratches are gone. You do it your way and I'll do it the right way.
I can tell trust me. I can pick apart almost any job. I do it at every show. The point of primering with 2k twice is to to fill in any scratches that were to deep to be sanded out when u blocked out the guide coat. 180grit is to coarse to be filled with 2 coats of 2k primer. After shooting the part the 2nd time and spraying a guide coat I would suggest something finer along the line of 320-400wet. This will make sure everything is uniform and all sandscratches are gone. You do it your way and I'll do it the right way.
sand, id probably feel more comfortable using 220, primer, if you let the primer dry longer then 12 hours, scuff it down with 400 grit lightly, blow it off, tack cloth it, then spray your base/clear
Thanks for all the help so far..
Im still curious to know if anyone knows of anything else that will safely strip paint off ABS plastic? I want something painless. No sanding required (until I repaint). I dont care if it takes a week to work or how much it costs..just want suggestons.....like....
"Yeah man if you spread peanut butter and pickle juice on it it works great!" or
"Use chicken noodle soup and frozen yogurt.. works wonders!"
Stuff like that. personal experiences with stuff that works
Im still curious to know if anyone knows of anything else that will safely strip paint off ABS plastic? I want something painless. No sanding required (until I repaint). I dont care if it takes a week to work or how much it costs..just want suggestons.....like....
"Yeah man if you spread peanut butter and pickle juice on it it works great!" or
"Use chicken noodle soup and frozen yogurt.. works wonders!"
Stuff like that. personal experiences with stuff that works
stripping paint off plastic is not the proper way of doing it, thats why theres no safe methods to do it, you sand it down , do your body work, and then primer it again, thats how its done. Any other way is gona be unsafe and you run the risk of damaging it.
YaI have seen it done with bumper stripper but it makes the plastic soft and mushy and u run the risk of problems later.
I found this on youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_zZ8saf2uz8
No one in my area seems to have access to dry ice blasting..so kinda out of the picture for me. The more I search..the more info I find on SAFE ways to strip plastics and thats what I am mainly looking for.
Thanks for all the help thus far.
dude, i would not put chems on ABS plastic at all, with solvents and chems, it breaks down the density of the plastic, ive seen thinner and degreasers warp abs. sanding isnt that hard. take your time, get a sanding block and go to town.
So just because you say its the "proper" way Im supposed to do it that way? I think not. I am asking for peoples opinions. I have gotten yours and I appreciate it. If 300 people told me to do it a certain way and 1 person showed me a more effective and efficient way to do it.. I would follow.
Most, if not all things, I do not question on the proper way to find the means to an end, but in this case I just want to consider ALL my options before I tackle this project
Why the hell would I use a sanding block on a complete lip kit that is somewhat curvy and has alot of detail that I do not want to compromise? Im not block sanding a door here.. this is a little more in depth
Most, if not all things, I do not question on the proper way to find the means to an end, but in this case I just want to consider ALL my options before I tackle this project
Why the hell would I use a sanding block on a complete lip kit that is somewhat curvy and has alot of detail that I do not want to compromise? Im not block sanding a door here.. this is a little more in depth
Last edited by Mr. Winky; Jan 8, 2010 at 11:22 AM.
I am in no way disagreeing with what works... I know sanding works and works well.. I am looking for effortless and perfect end results
I am even looking for something like this.. Anyone ever hear of Soda blasting? The more research I do on stripping plastics..the better info I find
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QMh1OxF5EQs
here is some info on Soda blasting for those of you, like me, who didnt know-
http://www.sodaworks.com/
I am even looking for something like this.. Anyone ever hear of Soda blasting? The more research I do on stripping plastics..the better info I find
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QMh1OxF5EQs
here is some info on Soda blasting for those of you, like me, who didnt know-
http://www.sodaworks.com/
You are wasting your time on here J. If it was how to tag paint your valvecover like a twink sneakerhead with a 13 second car, you would have success.
Ask yo boi cain, he would know. These dudes are just a bunch of Roger Klotz types just posting to **** on you.
You need to fix that whip up, and sell it and buy a domestic. Just a cam kit and i am at 12.1@118. Time for a 150 shot and some heads. Then ill be almost as fast as ed bergenholtz 150,000 dollar crx. haha
Ask yo boi cain, he would know. These dudes are just a bunch of Roger Klotz types just posting to **** on you.
You need to fix that whip up, and sell it and buy a domestic. Just a cam kit and i am at 12.1@118. Time for a 150 shot and some heads. Then ill be almost as fast as ed bergenholtz 150,000 dollar crx. haha


