Everything runs fine until WoT. Have searched and found common problems but no solutions. It's a B18A1. I've recently removed the engine harness to re-loom it and clean it up. The wires that were de-pinned were correctly restored (triple checked with electrical schematic)

Here's what I've checked/tried:

TPS/MAP plug positions (They aren't reversed)
Plugs, Wires, External Coil, Cap
Fuel filter is relatively new. Checked lines to and from for physical problems.
Engine/Ignition Timing (all good here as well)
Checked Harnesses for cracked/frayed/exposed wires.
Fuel level
swapped ECUs with no change. (Both stock P75)

Probably forgetting something... what else should i look for? Ive checked these things many times. The car ran fine before the project.
Still runs fine other than WoT as mentioned earlier probably about 90% throttle and up it runs as if I'm out of gas or a plug wire is disconnected.

Thanks in advance.

 

any cel's at all?

did u switch plugs on the iacv and the iat?

 

No CELs
As far as switching IACV and IAT they aren't even close enough to mistake for each other. I don't even think they have the same plug allowing them to swap. The manifold i have places the IAT on the Runner into cylinder #2 and IACV is in the normal placing behind the manifold just to the right of the TB. Can't see that being the problem but I'll go make sure the harness wont let the IAT reach to the IACV.

Checked the 2 IACV and IAT: Both are correctly placed. Similar plugs but they didn't reach. I double checked the wiring colors to the schematic to be sure.

Still checking what i can over and over ...

 

This is all that is left on a complete engine bay redo. Anyone else know what might be causing this? I'll probably end up removing the harness yet again to remove the looming and check again on each wire.

 

Found out today that it only happens while cold. I let the engine get to normal operating temps while checking on the cooling system and when i finished i started to look into the bogging again and it didn't happen. After sitting and cooling down i tried again hoping i lucked out... nope, not that lucky.

So: happens while cold, at WoT. All other times runs fine.
If it was the IACV i would have idle problems right? Getting irritated

 

If you are WOT while your engine is still 'cold' and it cuts out.. it's most likely running too rich. your motor will run a little on the rich side as it warms up..

so check your ignition system to see if everything is working properly.. i'd start by checking the plugs

 

btw, you have the factory ecu right?

 

Yes factory ECU. Have even changed to a known working ECU with same results (Both P75 stock OBD1 ECUs). Spark plugs physically looked fine. Will check the spark visually with the grounding tool. Aside from just seeing if the spark is bright, dim, or non existent, anything else i should be looking for? Ill check the fuel side (change out the regulator and filter and will soon get a pressure gauge) to make sure everything is in order. Assuming all will check ok, because that's my luck, what other than these might cause this? Hopefully these will reveal what the problem is.

Would a leak in the throttle body gasket possibly cause problems only at WoT? I would think it would mess with idle as well. I don't have access to starting fluid to test (no reason it shouldn't be leaking but it was off during the project) I do however have extra TB gaskets Ill remove it and put a new one on and just assume i had a small leak if it can effect WoT only.

Thanks for the replies so far, its a big help.

 

i had this problem on my turbo integra, my tuner ended up swapping to a known good dizzy and everything worked perfectly after that. i cant tell you how many time i checked and rechecked the harness before just giving up and taking it to him

 

Seemed to have good spark from each plug. I pulled each out and ran the engine for each one and it showed good spark. As for doing it at full throttle, I wasn't sure how leaving one out would work, so i just hooked up a timing light to each cylinder one at a time and hit WoT to see if the light would stop or become intermittent. It didn't skip a single flash on any cylinder. Not sure how wrong this method is but it gave me the answer i was looking for. Still have to get to the fuel system checks.

Also put in the new Throttle body gasket for good measure. TPS sensor and MAP checked good with the Ohm meter.

 

Check the air filter and then the fuel pressure.

 

you might think its stupid but it makes a big difference check the rotor in the dizzy if that doesn't make good contact with the prongs on the cap the spark is not going to big enough the gap is going to be to far ..

 

I still plan on updating this when i get a definite fix to the problem. I just have been too busy to really get to it. I may have the solution though (haven't got to check it fully). I switched out my IAT sensor simply because i had a black one and the current one was white. When i had it out it was wet... wiped it off and it looked like coolant. I'm suspecting the FITValve is leaking coolant into the TB. I'll pull it off and check this weekend and post results...and hopefully the finished solution for H-T "Search" reasons.

 

Cleaned the IACV and FITV at the same time and replaced the rubber seals and re-installed. Problem persists. Going to try to find a distributor assembly and Swap it out to test just to narrow the problem down a little farther. As for the coolant, pulled plugs and IAT as well as TB off and no moisture inside at this time.

 

Any solution? having same issue

 

have u fine out was the problem?

 

Take off your Catalyic Convertor and see if its clogged.My EG did that same thing back a few years ago and so I put a test pipe in and it fixed the problem bro.

 

all was checked out, turned out to be a bad distributor. Would act up when warm, new one fixed it compeltely

 

It's really been this long since I've been on HT. weird to see this on the second page but as promised the result was (as far as tests could tell) the shielded wires to the dizzy were too close to some of the others. Could be total BS... but after i took the loom off of everything, checked wires individually and hooked it up temporarily to test with each harness to individual sensors totally separated from the rest.... It ran perfect. I just returned one at a time to the harness as a whole until it started again, and sure enough the shielded wires were the ones. simply routed them outside of the main harness but inside the loom and never had this problem since.....just a new one now, almost a year later :D ... good times.