I've looked that the FAQs already, didn't find anything. I'm planning to go with an N/A 88mm or 89mm, what is the better block to build to get more horsepower and torque.

 

Depends on what you intend to do and what year the H22A4 is. If the H22A4 has bigger main journals, then the options for a cheap stroker are limited. But as far as the actual bare block goes, they're almost the same. The difference is in the crank, rods, and pistons.

Since you'll be sleeving the block, they're more or less the same. Whatever is cheaper and legal for your car would be my suggestion.

 

I don't think you read enough up in the FAQs than or wasn't finding the correct search profile. If you did, you'd know that they are both of very similar construction. The H22 has oil squirters making it safer to rev higher as well as vtec.

h23s are cheaper to buy by a few hundred though so if I had a shell with no motor and intended to do as you are, I'd just use an h23 or likely an f22 (or equivelent). Iron block, you'd have more options and durability.

 

I have a 2000 H22A4 block laying in my garage

 

H22/h23 shares the same block the difference is the head,rod,piston, crank and the addition of oil jets in the h22 block but these can be added to the h23 since like i said before there the same block.

H22a4 is a open deck version of the h22 while the older are closed deck like the non vtec h23.

In you sit. I would keep your h22a4 since the a4 has 55 mains which mean you can throw a f23 crank in there and since you gonna have to sleeve the block already you can easliy get some cheap custom piston made.

 

A4.
I have never seen an H23 vtec last long or have the ability to rev for crap

my a4 was still pulling past 9500rpm

 

The H23 just needs to be balanced, they're not balanced as well from the factory and the counterweights on them are smaller. The H23 cran is something lie 8lbs lighter and that all comes off of the counterweights. The H23 has a longer stroe which gives you more power across the board, but has a worse r/s, FWIW.

But jnv255, pulling has nothing to do with the cran, and I would imagine an H23 would pull harder, longer than a 90mm cran, but that has more to do with cams than the cran.

BTW my "|<" ey doesn't wor

 

if you can ditch the H22a4 block and buy a stock h22a jdm motor. when you do this you need to strip the motor and build it with 12:1 compression and throw some skunk2 pro series valvetrain and cams. give or take some more goodies and a good tune and you should throw out at the least a 200+ WHP motor. I run a fully built H22a5 motor and i push 230 Whp to the ground. also revving 8grand ALL DAY

 

h22a4 and the h22a are for all intents and purposes are the same engine. That would be a waste of time and money switching over.

 

 

bump, have an h22a and they are mean machines. compared to the h23, you can build them stronger. my engine revs 6k reliably making around 240 with an n/a setup. have an a1 for slae, complete rebuild ready to sell. 1500 with anything and everything.

 

It should rev to 8k reliably because that's the factory set redline on the JDM H22A.

 

ive got a 97 block, waiting to meet its demise or destiny

 

i never over rev any motor of mine, hence the 6k. this will be the 17th h22 i have built in the past year, and with a stock ecu i have never heard a problem from the kids that run the hell out of the motors...

 

i have a JDM Type S myself, but it's burning a lot of oil. My plan is to build the bottom end and slap on the Type S head

 

I know mine is different, but it revs to 9.5k all day long and it was still making power past that.
You can rev an H series

 

[QUOTE]I know mine is different, but it revs to 9.5k all day long and it was still making power past that.
You can rev an H series[QUOTE]

Ah men jnv225
i rev 8.5k like its nothing. H series can take anything you can throw at it
i want to know how you make power past 9 my build starts to drop power after 8.3

 

Who decides where "over rev" begins?
edit-hope he meant 17th as in other cars.

 

 

I have a h23 blue top and b4 I dump money into it I would like to no if its worth it I want to do all motor maybe nitrous

 

if you already have it, yes its worth it. should beat out all the H22's out there.

As far as building it as in sleeving the block and going with forged rods and pistons, no it's not worth it. The reason it's not worth it is that you can get a regular old H23 for dirt cheap and sleeve it for the same result. Also a suggestion if you decide to build ANY H23 would be to add oil squirters.

 

I have a stock JDM H22 in mine, with a stock ecu( Not sure which one tho ) The stock redline is at 8k? Ive been shifting at 7 when I get on it... Would 8 be ok when there isnt any work done on the motor?

 

The stock ECU won't let you get to 8k, and with stock cams there isn't any reason to really rev that far....

 

Good to know. Thanks

 

With aftermarket support(eCtune/Hondata...etc...) Some people have found that revving to about 8k in 1st and 2nd gear work better for Drag Racing because you land higher in the powerband for the next gear.