Electrical Issues: Do G3's have notorious ICU's like the G2's?
So I'll try and explain this as quickly yet as detailed as possible:
Replaced battery & alternator due to dead battery issues- worked for a while but then battery still died.
Battery checked okay.
Alternator checked okay.
Parasitic Drain Test: Failed! Car is drawing 1.4-1.8 Amps when car is off! Should be ~.4!
Pull fuses= Culprit is the "Interior Light" fuse. Once pulled, car is only drawing .3 amps when car is off. No more dead car in the morning!
So once this fuse was pulled:
No more interior lights (well duh)
No more rear defroster (Huh? That has it's own separate fuse!)
Car shows "Door Open" light with doors both closed! Once I open a door it gets brighter. When I move interior light to the "OFF" position (or "ON") as opposed to that middle-door-open setting- it goes off (and only lights up when the doors are truly open). Hmm, go figure.
So I just attempted to put that "interior light" 7.5a back in but move the interior light switch to OFF and see if the car settled down to .3amp draw- but it failed. Despite any setting on the interior light, simply having that fuse in place pushes the draw to 1.4amps once again. However my rear defrost worked now that the fuse was back in (no clue why)
The door jamb switches are fine, the switch to the interior light looks fine.
So I've read of bad resistors in the ICU unit (Behind the fuse panel) in the G2 integra's. Could a faulty ICU be causing all of this odd erratic behavior? Are the G3's also equipped with delicate ICU's? What else could it be?
Replaced battery & alternator due to dead battery issues- worked for a while but then battery still died.
Battery checked okay.
Alternator checked okay.
Parasitic Drain Test: Failed! Car is drawing 1.4-1.8 Amps when car is off! Should be ~.4!
Pull fuses= Culprit is the "Interior Light" fuse. Once pulled, car is only drawing .3 amps when car is off. No more dead car in the morning!
So once this fuse was pulled:
No more interior lights (well duh)
No more rear defroster (Huh? That has it's own separate fuse!)
Car shows "Door Open" light with doors both closed! Once I open a door it gets brighter. When I move interior light to the "OFF" position (or "ON") as opposed to that middle-door-open setting- it goes off (and only lights up when the doors are truly open). Hmm, go figure.
So I just attempted to put that "interior light" 7.5a back in but move the interior light switch to OFF and see if the car settled down to .3amp draw- but it failed. Despite any setting on the interior light, simply having that fuse in place pushes the draw to 1.4amps once again. However my rear defrost worked now that the fuse was back in (no clue why)
The door jamb switches are fine, the switch to the interior light looks fine.
So I've read of bad resistors in the ICU unit (Behind the fuse panel) in the G2 integra's. Could a faulty ICU be causing all of this odd erratic behavior? Are the G3's also equipped with delicate ICU's? What else could it be?
FIXED IT!
The issue was my antenna motor.
My power antenna has had issues going up and down on its own lately so I forced it down with my hand.
Disconnecting the power antenna fixed it all. I put my Interior light fuse back in and now everything functions normal and I get only .2a draw on my battery when fully off! (Of course I just don't have a working antenna now but that's fine!)
The issue was my antenna motor.
My power antenna has had issues going up and down on its own lately so I forced it down with my hand.
Disconnecting the power antenna fixed it all. I put my Interior light fuse back in and now everything functions normal and I get only .2a draw on my battery when fully off! (Of course I just don't have a working antenna now but that's fine!)
Bringing this back for other people that might have had a hard time finding the solution as there is 100% accurate information here. I had the same problem in my car, actually bought a replacement icu, replaced it, same problem, disconnected the antennae motor after searching the board for an hour and everything is back to normal. Note: at least in my case I kept blowing the 7.5a interior light fuse, slot 21, as soon as I turned the car on. Keys in the ignition chime would work until I turned it over. What a ridiculous pain in the *** this was.
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Bethiecaute
Honda Civic (2006 - 2015)
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Jun 1, 2015 12:54 PM





