I've been having the strangest engine problem on my automatic 1996 Honda Accord 4 cylinder (196k miles). I took it to a mechanic and he was baffled as well because the problem refuses to reproduce, but it's rather random. The last thing I want to happen is for it to shut off in the middle of a busy freeway. It stopped on a highway and a semi was inches from ramming into me from behind.

The engine randomly shuts off like someone flipped a switch to turn it off (no jerking, just turns off). Plus the check engine light never comes on.

This has happened in the following places:
1. While idling in a parking lot a few minutes after startup
2. After sitting a red light and trying to accelerate and also at initial highway acceleration
3. While coasting in a parking lot (foot NOT on the gas paddle, just coasting)

When trying to start the car back up after the engine turns off, the car makes the typical startup noise but never starts. If I let it sit for 1-4 minutes, the car starts fine. The heater and the radio are not affected, they work normally during everything.

I've noticed a few trends of when this happens. It happens at the beginning of the day when the car is out and about but still kind of cold. It rarely happens once the car has been out and about for a little while. This could be coincidence? Also, having the heater on max at the beginning of the day seems to up the probability of the car engine dying. Again, coincidence? Also, perhaps related or not, the car also has a high pitch squeal at startup that seems to go away when the heater/fan is turned off.

I've taken it to a mechanic and he tested the ignition switch, which he said worked properly and was not the problem (60$ later). I've done some research on the net and have come up with 3 possible problems I think it may be. I'm really really really hoping someone on here can perhaps narrow it down based on these symptoms and give me a direction.

1. Ignition coil
2. Ignition control module
3. Fuel pump

I was told fuel pumps are super reliable on 96 accords, so I'm thinking it's a problem that lies within the distributor.

Any fresh ideas out there? Please?

Grateful,
Jeul

 

main relay, or ignition switch.

 

AC lockup clutch. When the heater is turned on the AC pump actuates on some models to pump radiator fluid through the heater core. If the AC pump is bad and puts out too much resistance to the belt this can kill a cold engine and cause squealing. Check for excessive wear on the belt.

Hot motors sieze less than cold motors; thus once the car has gone for awhile the components in the motor have all expanded and the tolerances in between them are larger which equals less friction. Plus a warm engine has more power to output.

I would still 2x check the fuel pump. Run it near 1/8th tank and see if it sputters out; fuel pumps can run hot and seize. I'd throw some seafoam into the tank for good measure.

If it is an electrical issue for the main relay the car and all electronics will shut off. The heater, lights, instrument cluster and radio would shut off with the engine.

Ignition coil is a possibility.

 

196k 1996 accord - things I could think of:
1. bad a/c compressor clutch just like bobinator5000 said. Assuming the squeaking noise is from the compressor. - if can do without AC, which is not controlling the heating, you can bypass it with the dx model belt(w/o AC) and see if the problem goes away.
2. moisture in the distributor cap. - easy to check
If the main relay has a cold solder point it should be hard to start the car in the morning.
3. Ground wire, especially the one from the battery to the transmission. However if the ground wiring is faulty, it should show the common electrical signs(ex. lights, instrutment panels act funny)

 

Just had a similar issue with my 97.

Check the following
1. Igniter - If it takes your car 1-4minutes to start back up, it's possible that it's the igniter. The igniter needs to cool down for it to start working again (if its bad). It's located in the dizzy
2. IACV/FIV - Check/clean them.
3. Distributor - Try a known working dizzy and see if that will fix the problem.

 

Distributor

 

If it's the main relay, wouldn't the radio and fan blower go off too? They stay on and are unaffected.

 

I've noticed the car turns off even when the heater is completely off, although the heater being on would up the probability. Does this rule out the a/c clutch?

 

The electrical portion of the ignition switch is not too expensive and can cause issues similar to this.

Essentially it "loses" the place of the key (I,II,ON) and can kill the car. Do you have occasional issues with windows not rolling down when on the Accessory position?

 

Jeul,

Before you spend a cent, go to American Honda and see if your vehicle has had a recall notice. I had a 97 Accord that did that and it was the ignition switch or something like that, can't recall. Took the car to the dealer, they fixed it free of charge. Try that and post your results.

 

There hasn't been any problem with the windows.

I took the car in already to the mechanic and they tested the ignition switch. They said it worked properly and could see no problem with it.

At this point, I think the a/c clutch or ignition coil might be a good lead, although I'm not sure of it since it happens when there's no heater running as well.

 

I'm quite curious how they tested the ignition switch? Turned the key to see if it turned the car on?

My vote is still to replace it. 13 year old copper contacts that are used daily and can cause this issue.

I had mine die while driving, I had mine work perfectly one day, I had it not work at all the next, etc

*edit* And it's only like $40 from Honda new

 

They did some kind of electrical connection test as well as tapping on it when the car was running.

 

Is replacing an ignition switch a do-it-yourself easy job?

 

It's fairly straight forward and I believe a DIY exists in the FAQ.

I guessed how to do it from looking at the area. VERY basically:

Take off the steering column covers
Unscrew the two bolts on the left side of the column on the green/clear/blue plastic cap
Unscrew the bolt on the back side near the key

 

I have the same year, and 200k on the clock, had a similar problem. For me it was the distributor and the built in cylinder position sensor. But I had a check light for it. When I first got the Check Engine light, it stayed on with no problems for about 3-4 months. Then as of Friday the car started to die out at stop lights, stop signs.

It can also the fuel relay, or the ignition switch.

 

this is a known problem, i believe there was a recall!
http://www.automallusa.net/1997/hond...d/recalls.html

call honda to fix it for freeee or reduced price

 

His is a 96 not 97,though. Myabe it could affect if it was built during the latter half of the year. I'm thinking it's the distributor.

 

Mine was a 96 where this was the issue, my 97 is fine.

Honda is funny when it comes to those bulletins. For some reason there's a 05-08 Softtop Tear TSB for S2000's but the 2004 with the identical top is left out.

 

I have a similar problem with my 1997 Accord. I'll call Honda tomorrow and see if I can get mine done. Awesome, hopefully that's all that needs to be done.