1994 honda accord ex
well a couple days ago my while i was driving my car died all of a sudden and wouldnt turn on. after putting the car at the side of the road it turned on and i noticed that my battery posts was dirty so i clean it and thought that was the problem. had autozone check battery and it was good. next day i drove my car again for about an hour and same thing happened. when i try to turn it own is sounds like its going to turn on but doesnt. it almost sounds like it has too much fuel. a buddy of mine told me it was the fuel pump because when they start breaking up per age thats what they do. would that be it?

i was looking at the FAQ for 5th gen accord replace fuel pump but there is no pics and the directions are a little confusing. does anyone have pics of how to replace it and with model specific directions.?

thanks

 

have you thought about changing the main relay?

 

x2

 

Main Relay will require the car to be off for 10-15 mins before the car can actually start; since, the relay needs to cool down. If car does not start at all even after 10-15 mins, I don't think its the relay. Cause when my pump took a dump, I've waited and nothing. I knew it was the pump.

 

my car turns on after i wait a little for it to cool down. it happens after about an hour of driving it. is the main relay in the hoods fuse box?

 

its under the dash.

take it out. fix the solder connections. done and done for another 10-15 years haha. ceck the faq. there is a few guides in there for it.

 

x2.

 

Honda/Denso fuel pumps almost never fail, and are commonly misdiagnosed by people who aren't familiar with working on these cars. We work on over 70 Hondas and Acuras per week, and I've seen only three fuel pumps fail on Hondas in the past three years. Two of those cars had over 325,000 miles on the odometer.

In addition, for most cases where the fuel pump fails, it's usually done for good. The car will not restart at all.

Sounds like a bad ignitor inside the distributor.

A failing main relay usually won't cause the car to stall while driving; I've only seen that happen a handful of times, and not with '90-97 Accords. Stalling while driving is normally caused by either a bad ignitor or a bad ignition switch. The symptoms of a bad ignitor are stalling or no-start due to weak or no sparks after the car has been run for while, and remission of the problem after the car has been left to sit and cool down.

If you're not getting spark while the car is refusing to start, it's likely the ignitor.

Still, it's not a bad idea to replace or resolder the main relay anyway as others have suggested. Even if it doesn't fix the problem, every fuel-injected Honda made up until 2001 needs one eventually. They seem to last about 10-12 years or so. A failure in the '90-97 Accord main relay usually causes a no-start when ambient conditions inside the car are hot, as when the car is left to sit out in the sun and bake with the windows closed.

 

I believe mine's around 400K+ on the fuel pump that I replaced. I had to pound on the gas tank to send vibration to the unit to be active, and it drove fine again for a day or two. Then, one day I went to start it after driving around town, it would not start whatsoever. So I knew it was time for a new one. Walbro!

 

Have you had the starter changed? My accord had similar symptoms couple months ago. Went Rrrrr Rrrr. like the battery was dying, then I tried tapping the starter motor, and it would start after that.
Ended up changing the brushes and starts up like a charm now.

 

Good info from Targa250R.

I agree with Targa that it sounds distributor related.

This is another common problem with Honda's around 150,000 on up. Check it out at least if fixing the main relay does nothing.

 

My distributor on my 93 lx died when i had 60,000. wtf? I guess its common on accords

Next time it wont start unplug a plug wire and put a screwdriver in the plug and put the shaft of the screwdriver near a ground and look for a spark.

 

i bought the car about a year ago and has about 160,000 miles on it. i dont know if the distributor, main relay, or starter motor were changed by previous owner. how can i check them to see if theyre still good without replacing each part. well at least i know its not the fuel pump because it still turns on.

 

Here is a link on how to fix the Main Relay, there used to be a good write up in FAQ'S but the link no longer works.
http://techautorepairs.com/mainrelay.html

 

here is the update on my accord. my mechanic said that my head is overheating. i had those ricer reversglow gauges and my temp guage didnt work, i took them off and turned the car on and the needle was all the way up to red line. so i need to replace the head or rebuild it. any ideas on how much it would run to replace and to rebuild it?

also im thinking of getting the h22 head if i find 1, is it a direct fit?

how much do f22 and h22 engines usually cost? i might just replace the whole engine if its cheaper.

 

well ebay is always a good option, if your local junkyard is a no. usually you can find a good head on ebay where all you may need is the cam or cams if it is the H22. If you want the H22 with the F22 bottom, look in the faq, some stuff with blocking off some passages, headgasket stuff, different belts, and i think water pump.

I mean building is always nice, but what are your hp goals? do you have any? that should be where your answers lies. do you wants a high hp car? or just something that looks good

 

You should. It won't necessarily be cheaper, but it won't be much more expensive either.

If the engine was overheated as badly as I'm imagining it was, you may have done more damage than just blowing the head gasket and warping the head. Simply machining or replacing the head and installing a new head gasket may not solve your overheating problem.

I'd just swap a complete used engine in. It will probably save you money and a whole lot of frustration in the long run.

 

i dont have any hp goals really, im more going into show than go. but i know an h22 is better so if i get a better offer on a h22 than f22 ill go for the h22. does the jdm h22 motor fit directly on f22 intake, exhaust, headers, tranny? the reason im asking is because i found a deal for a jdm h22 motor but i have megan racing headers, dual magnaflow exhuast, and CAI and not sure if theyll fit nicely together.

 

intake....i believe it is the same.
headers.....no.
exhuast, there is a debate there where you need to cut the down pipe partially cause its too long or a shorter cat.

why the dual exhuast? back pressure too low.

 

idk thats how it was when i purchased the car. it splits at the end. well i guess ill say goodbye to the jdm h22 then. im going to have to stick with the f22.

 

oh, so its not a real true dual. as i thought. all you might lose is the headers. sell your ones and buy a new set. no biggie.

 

thats good...is the f22b2 vtec? i cant remember if i have the f22b1 or b2. its vtec though.

 

b1 vtec came in the ex. b2 lx and dx.......nonvtec.

 

thanks than i have the f22b1 i found a f22b2 for $200 but i want vtec so i must keep looking.

 

just thought id tell you guys whats the status on my random shut off....fixed :-)

im not sure what it was but this is what i changed.

new (more cranks) battery
flushed radiator (it was brown and had chunky things that came out of it....yuck)
new top and lid for the radiator (cracked and old)
new fuel filter (pain to take off the bottom bolt)
new thermostat
used/new complete gauge cluster

ive driven the car around a couple days so far and it hasnt shut off once