ive been looking for one but i would like to know if the h22 willing to fit??

any ideas or do they sell f23 Block Guard lmk guys

neways bump my thread for the g23 built

http://www.b20vtec.com/forums/h-f-se...built-crx.html

 

Bumpp

 

wont fit and you dont need one. AT ALL

 

I was told too cuz I'm gettin it bore to 87mm n I need it so they can bore it also they told me I need...

 

bumpppp

 

you already have your answer. Its a waste.

 

I need to aquire 2 main componets for this build up an F23 block, and an H22A1 head.

I want to modify the rod to stroke ratio while keeping the 2.2 to 2.3L displacement. This is to increase the revving ability to 7200 w/o worries. I have over reved my F22b1 in my accord to 8k on 3 seperate occasions: yes its still running fine.... I really shouldn't drive when im that tired. Shifting to 2nd after red-lining 3rd is a NO NO at any rate, The goal here is to look at the possibilities of raising the rod to stroke ratio on an F23.

The reason behind a F23 build with H head is DOHC of course, theres nice manifolds for H series heads, The F23 has 55MM main bearings which will better deal with more power than my current F22.

Help is appreciated, I don't yet know much about rod to stroke ratios and I'm wanting to know where a good middle ground will be when building up a new engine for the accord.

 

block guards are useless, don't bother. there either to tight which causes cylinder distortion or to loose which does nothing at all.

i do a process called cylinder support systems which in essence does what a block guard is suppose to do. check my sig for a link.

in you situation. why don't you just buy an h22 shortblock? they are selling so cheap right now its a no brainer.

 

The higher the R/S ratio the better it will be for higher RPMs. The R/S for a stock F23 is approx 1.45:1 and a high revving F1 is around 2:1. So any way to make it higher than 1.4 would benefit you in your goal to hit 7200 rpm. I went with a longer H22 rod and shorter compression height piston in my F22. Took my R/S ratio from 1.4:1 to 1.6:1. Not a huge change but enough for me.

/back on topic

Who is telling you to use a block guard? If your running the risk of going too thin on the cylinder walls then I would think any reputable machine shop/engine builder would suggest sleeves vs a block guard. A block guard will do nothing for an over board cylinder wall. At best the only thing that a block guard may do is keep the cylinders from walking. But again, If that is your worry. I would look into a set of closed deck sleeves.

 

I have a complete (minus vtak solenoid and VC) h22a head 200 plus ship to your door WITH the H crank pulley youl need....

PM if interested


55mm mains arent even a consideration at the power youll make. My crank sees 750-800BHP and I rev it to 9K (H22 at 89mm). 50mm mains oem main bolts. No issues. 15K miles, beaten constantly. Worry more about your oiling system than the 55mm mains. The prodrive oil pump gears are a waste of money too.


Closed deck sleeves arent a big deal either....AT ALL/ Id rather have an A4 block actually. No thanks on the JDM or A1. GE is the way to go though on the sleeves.

 

You are gonna find there are people who swear by block guards, and those who question their supporters sanity anytime you ask about them.

Personally, I think they are an OK investment at best when you cannot get better sleeves. They of course MUST be done correctly or you are just going to waste your money no questions asked. My friend has one on his D16y8 and they have worked fine.

Best case scenario though, get sleeves. Not as many worries and they'll do the job no problem.

 

What type of build is your buddies D16y8, why did he need a block guard?

 

Crap I thought I put in more info on his build on that post haha.

The engine itself was actually built by the previous owner. Pretty respectable build and the internals were verified to have been installed/modified (so no BS claims).

In short: Turbo, Nice flowing head, Crower stage 2 cam, full Crower valvetrain, forged internals, bored 0.25 (one his reasons for the guard), and the funny part: It has been sleeved!

He was a nice guy, but seemed to not quite know everything that he probably should have before doing this build (not trying to say he didn't know what he was talking about, but maybe just lacking in some areas). The guy was wanting to run higher boost to it I think, but decided to move on to another project because he just had a kid and it wasn't a practical DD.

It doesn't get much boost run through it right now because my friend doesn't feel it necessary, so the block guard would seem pretty useless to me. Even with higher boost I really don't think it would need it. I could see someone wanting some piece of mind with one, but I probably wouldn't have bought it if it were me. Like I said before though, no real heating problems or any other issues with it.

 

well my machine shop told me they need it to able to bore it out... so idk

 

there is no piece of mind with a blockguard. "false hope" is what you get 9 out of 10 times. and if you put it in your already built engine, you really asking for issues.

 

Yet there are a surprising amount of people who would disagree with that statement. Checking out some of the block guard threads in the FI forum, you will find that there are plenty of people who have had good experiences with them. I would agree that block guards CAN add to worries, but I don't know where you got your 9 out of 10 figure.

Once again, I would just resleeve and call it a day. I've seen them work though, so I guess its just a personal call. Anyway, it looks to me like maybe we need more people who know how to install them.

 

they can disagree all they want. its impossible using the stock casting to have a mass produced block guard fit properly all the way around the cylinders consistantly. i got 9 out of 10 by being a machinest, having the tools to measure blocks, and built/tuned countless honda engines.

 

I would actually agree with you that a lot of mass produced block guards have fitment issues (I laughed when I saw OBX made a block guard). But there are those out there that have worked, and have lasted. Just don't think the odds are that bad.

Anyway, we are arguing minor differences in statistics, so its no big deal. I personal still agree with your core point that I wouldn't mess with them if it were my choice. I'm glad we at least got another opinion from someone who has worked with them on multiple occasions.

OP I don't know who your shop is but they probably just have a different philosophy on building up boosted blocks. Ask them why they insist on block guards and not resleeving with better sleeves instead? Maybe they could offer their 0.02 cents on the subject?

 

because the larger crank diameter and bulkier girdle can take the highest forces of this series, and it achieves the 2.3L displacement with a longer stroke and longer crank arms, so it can still work with the H's DOHC. keep the F heads for lower compression and get a higher compression ratio by swapping out to k20 pistons.

It's basically a gigantic d series. The h adds VTEC dohc. If you want to make crazy boost and get the same kind of power as a k series without spending a mint, you build this.

 

FYI, thread is from 2009!

 

So after you block the oil/cooling drains to mate the h22 head and f23 block, what head studs and head gasket would you use? H22 or F23?