Hello,

1992 Accord - 340,XXX Miles

I drove about 200 miles today and went into the grocery store. When I came back out about 5 minutes later, the car will try and fire, but will only stay on for about .5 to 1 second and then it immediately dies. Everything else appears to work (lights, windows, etc.) except it won't shift into N unless I keep it cranked (even with the brake pedal down like usual) - I seem to remember it shifting even without the engine running before.

The visible fuses look fine, but I can test any of them if somebody has a suggestion.

My first thought was PGMFI Relay, but IIRC it won't fire at all, even for a few minutes. I haven't resoldered it in about 200K and I also seem to remember that this was a heat issue, not cold (it was about 20 here today, not too cold).

I am thinking fuel and fuel pump. Thoughts? Is there any common things that I am overlooking?

Thanks in advance.

 

Battery is 12.4 after sitting all night.

This thing has a remote starter... wonder if this could be it?

 

can you hear the fuel pump prime? verify that you're getting fuel to the rail.

check for spark. and check the ignition switch.

are you getting any check engine lights?

 

Fuel pump will prime for about 1 second. During this time the CEL is on. After the second, or so, the CEL goes off and I can hear a relay click.

The fuel rail has pressure, but not a lot of fuel came out when I cracked the valve - not even a 1/4 teaspoon. I have no idea if this is a normal amount.

The car will fire. It will spark. It will run, if only for a half of a second. I will run for a full second if I mash down the pedal. Would the ignition switch quit after a second?

There were no CEL lights before yesterday.

What to try next? I appreciate all of the help. I just did the timing and blanace belts 2 weeks ago, so I need to get another 90K out this thing...

 

what is the cel for?

 

It is the remote starter.

The car will start and run just fine with the remote starter, just not with the key. Time to figure this out - a fuel pump or relay will prove to have been a whole lot easier.

Thanks.

 

whoa whoa whoa, so you cant shift gears when the cars not running?

 

It is an auto and it would not shift out of park. ...more on this in a second...

As it turns out it is the ignition switch, not the remote starter. If I start the car with the remote starter, it will turn control over to the car to me and keep running. This was weird to me, so I DMMed the whole setup and the IN1 wire was good at position 3 but not at position 2 of the ignition. If you start the car with the remote starter, the IN1 wire stays engaged from the remote starter the whole time until you shut the car down. ...so the starter actually has helped me since I can now drive the car as long as I start it with the remote.

I suspect that the IN1 wire has something to do with the solenoid that releases the shifter lock. That is why it would shift when in position 3, but not position 2.

I have looked at replacement ignition switches. Some have the key assembly and some do not. Do I just need the plastic looking stuff? The key assembly works fine (I had to replace it about a quarter million miles ago and have had 2 keys every since). Suggestions? I have time and can order one if somebody knows of a good supplier that supports this site.

 

When my fuel pump took a dump after I had just fill it up, it ran for a good 2 sec then shuts off on me. I pounded with a rubber mallet while my bro cranks it up and bam, it starts up. So I knew I have a fuel pump issue.