Hello my fellow H-T members. I have a 91 sohc zc still ob0 with pm6 ecu. The other day, I went to start my car and it would not start. So I tried push starting it and it still didnt start. I switched main relay's and still did not start. Then I checked for spark and I did not have any. I tested the coil, got battery voltage and then a fellow H-T (crx_si-r) gave me an module and now I have spark. However, my car still will not start. So now I am thinking its timing but I have a skunk2 cam (car came with it) and cant tell if timing is lined up. I believe the dot on the cam means tdc but I do not know for sure. Also what would be a good way to support the the engine with a jack. I do not have any pieces of wood to use to jack it up with an oil pan. Also dont have any yellow books.

 

Timing is off if that dot is TDC, the arrow in the 2nd pic should be pointing to the mark that is by what looks to be a "S" for Made In USA, that is TDC. The red mark is for IIRC 16* BTDC when timing it running.

 

ohh ok, I will turn the crank and see if the cam will line up with crank when the arrow is on the correct tdc mark. Thanks for the help. If my timing is infact off, is there a way where I can slip the belt on correctly without removing the engine mount because I have no way of supporting the engine. Also when I tested the continuity on the tdc/crank/cyl I get 350 ohms and it is suppose to be between 350 and 550. Is the sensor bad?

 

Yes you could, the belt is on already, you are not replacing it are you? You will need to remove the VC, crank pulley, and the timing covers to set it properly though.

 

I thought the reason for removing the valve cover was to take the upper timing cover off but that is already off. I was hoping I could get away without taking the pulley off cuz I do not have any air tools.

 

it's possible, but I would rather do it like that.

 

do you have any tips on taking it off without air tools?

 

And this car WAS running OK until just the other day ?

I'll mention this just to consider. A long time ago there was a recall for something called an "igniter" with the Civic's and CRX's. Seems these crapped out suddenly and nothing anyone tried to do would start the engine. You may want to check to see if this car got recalled and it was taken in for the replacement of that part.

The igniter is a component on the side of the distributor and has a cover over it held on by a couple small screws. It has four pins which stick out of the side and wiring in the distributor plugs onto these pins thru a slot in the distributor housing. You'll need a VOM meter to test this along with a small jumper wire. Also check the plug inside the distributor that plugs on to the ingiter to see if voltage is present.(check a manual for details) Checking the dash fuse panel may show a blown fuse #32 50amp if an igniter has failed. (in some cases)

Just a thought.

 

Timing is definitely off... the red mark = 16.5* you should be lining up off the single mark to the right in the pic.

 

Yes the car was running then I went to start it and it would not start. I explained it in another thread about dizzy questions I had. I was getting no spark and then I replaced the igniter coil and now I have spark but the car will not run. All my fuses are good and so are my grounds. I wanted redo timing but my problem is I cannot tell where tdc is on the cam because there is no marks. I know the belt needs to be aligned with the red dots but how do I know when the red dots are tdc? I know when the crank shaft is tdc cuz of the marks on the pulley. So if you know where tdc is for the skunk2 cam that would be great help.

My dad also gave me an some in site that I might have put the dizzy on wrong even though I marked it. He said the rotor might have turned and not giving spark to the right cylinder.

 

when you replaced the dizzy, did it go on easy, or did you have to force it a lil bit?

 

I had to force it on a bit.

 

that's your problem then, take it out, spin the tooth 180* and replace it.

 

I will do that in the morning. Its raining and dark out right now. Not the ideal time to be working on the car. I dont like how the orange dots do not line up. I was going to take the vc off and watch the intake go up and down and find it when it hits highest. Does that sound right for tdc? If I need to adjust the cam, do I just turn the cam and with the timing belt off the crank or will I still bend valves?

 

Well from what it looks like to me, the dimple is UP, and the two small marks are the 90* from TDC marks. The two small marks on the side should line up with the surface of the head that the VC makes contact with, this is TDC for the CAM. As for TDC for the crank, it's the white mark which should line up with the arrow. The red mark is 16 or 18* BTDC, can't remember which, and the 2 marks to the right and left of that are 2* apart from the center red mark meaning if the red mark is 18* BTDC, one mark next to it is 16* BTDC, and the other is 20* BTDC. Hopefully this helps you...

 

ok timing? maybe but did not read anyone elses stuff but did you check to c if your fuel pump is priming! you can hear it in the car and under the hood.. check that if you have not!

 

Yes I did check if my fuel pump is priming. I can hear it, I am building up pressure. I also have a leak in my fuel filter so I can smell and see the gas. I also check the resistance the injectors like the helms says so the injectors are working. I also switch main relays just in case.

Clipsed that was very helpful information. I am going to go set crank tdc and see if the dimple is up and see if the two marks are aligned with the head. If I had the stock cam I would throw that on and do it that way, but I do not. I am also going to flip the dizzy 180 like you said.

 

what's the word mocking bird?

 

I spun the crank several times and then set it to tdc. Then I took the dizzy off and it was all aligned up with the tdc marks. I took the cap off and the rotor was pointing to spark plug one. So I decide to give it a try and start the car. The car did not start. So then I loosened the tensioner and removed the belt and adjusted the cam to line it up with the head and having the dimple point up. I then started the car it and it did not start.

I then decided to give my dad a call to have him tow it to his house in sac where I would have access to all the possible tools I need. Air tools, cherry picker, and just a lot of damm tools. While he was getting everything in order me and my girl decided to do a little xmas shopping and a dumb freak girl hit us. So that put it off going to sac and having access to all the tools I need. Now we have to deal with insurance. Just cuz you hit the break as hard as you can doesnt mean you will stop.

So I am going to see if I can find a way to take the pulley off and take the timing cover off and line everything up as if I took the head off.

 

to take the crank pulley off you can do this if you dont have the Honda crank pulley remover. take off the starter and use a 19-22mm deep socket and lodge it in between the teeth on the flywheel and the transmission casing. then just remove the crank pulley bolt, remember tho i think its reverse threading.

 

I have a lighten fly wheel so I dont know how it will hold up. I also have an actual flywheel turner tool but I could never figure out where the inspection plate is. Since it is actually not raining right now I will give that a shot.

 

Take off spark plug number one, and set the crank to where that mark I should you is pointing to the arrow, and stick a long extention in there, if the piston is at the very top, then you are at TDC, then check the cam gear. If the cam gear is off, your dizzy will also be off since it runs off of the cam.

It's not reverse threading.

 

I got the car running today. Well sort of. I took the puelly off and adjusted the belt and cam and made sure cam was tdc as was the crank. I then cranked it over and it started. Let the car get to operating tempatures. Turned the car off and on about 10 times. Then went to put everything back together, put the tire back on, pulled the Jack down, put ecu back into the kick pan. Went to start it again to take it for a test drive and it would not start. I checked for spark and there was none. I also have a cel now. I don't know if I reading it right though. It's a pm6 but it has one long flash and six short ones. But I thought obd0 was all short flashes. Man my hands are tired updated through iPhone. I will also post a vid of the ecu in a bit.

Here is the vid of the ecu.

 

Well I found out the cel was 15, ignition output signal. I took the cap back off and bench tested the ignition module and everything checked out. I put everything back together and then she started right up. I then drove here and I got about 5 miles away from the house and she cuts out. No spark again. So I took the cap back apart and put it together and she starts again. Then I turn her off and went to start her again to drive her but she would not start up. I think i am just going to just go get a new dizzy or use another one to rebuild the dizzy.

 

I finally figure it out. The previous owner did a crappy job at wiring up the alarm. There was a wire shorting out and killing my ignition modulators.