Stock internals on boost Success or Fail ??
Just wondering how many have ran or running boosted engines on stock internals and the #'s.
Engine combo's?
Before and after compression test #'s?
Leak down #'s if possible?
Boost levels?
HP?
How long has it been going?
Ever torn it down for inspection?
Cause of failure if any?
Just trying to get an ideal of things ppl have tried and any big success or failures on stock parts.
Engine combo's?
Before and after compression test #'s?
Leak down #'s if possible?
Boost levels?
HP?
How long has it been going?
Ever torn it down for inspection?
Cause of failure if any?
Just trying to get an ideal of things ppl have tried and any big success or failures on stock parts.
look for a sticky that has all the stock engines with high horsepower and stock bottom end. Tons of People run stock motors for boost, Its a gamble...If you get it cheap boost it cheap, and tune it extremely well then you should be set. Just dont go high PSI. And SEARCH....
I want ppl to chime in who has done it awhile or done it before but upgraded for some sort of reason, not the ppl only been running 3 months or less unless it was due to part failure or has done it blew up and didn't bother to look at y. Not really the guys who don't do thier own engine work either. A thread of success and failure stories not just the ones who have made 700hp for a month then sent the head thru the hood. All the threads I have read r just boasts and success, what about the guys who tried and it didn't work for them?
I have been running a B16 with new P75 pistons, rings, acl bearing and arp headstuds for 18k miles. It has never been on a dyno or profesionally tuned...
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I've been on a bone stock LS for 2 years and 40k miles. Daily driven. Made 235whp on
9lbs on a dynojet for the first 9 months. Been on 13lbs since. Haven't gone back on the dyno (but did get re street tuned) but I'd say it's at 260-265 right now. So fun to drive. Unfortunately I was rearended in October. I'm still driving it but the insurance is going to be salvaging the title
. Probably going to boost my stock 92 GSR next. Get a SOLID tune and stay at around 280-300 (although MANY have made alot more) and you'll be happy. For a little while anyways. Good luck!
9lbs on a dynojet for the first 9 months. Been on 13lbs since. Haven't gone back on the dyno (but did get re street tuned) but I'd say it's at 260-265 right now. So fun to drive. Unfortunately I was rearended in October. I'm still driving it but the insurance is going to be salvaging the title
. Probably going to boost my stock 92 GSR next. Get a SOLID tune and stay at around 280-300 (although MANY have made alot more) and you'll be happy. For a little while anyways. Good luck!
I ran a GT3255b on my stock block GSR at 10.5psi for 2 years making 315whp/216wtq on 91 octane. It ran just fine, didnt smoke and never gave me problems. I sold it due to a spun rod bearing (caused by a large oil leak i didnt notice). Even though it tanked, it was nothing related to the turbo setup. My plan was to put it on E85 and crank the boost, but i got a good deal on a built block and sold the stock GSR instead.
Done correctly, a stock block turbo setup can be great fun and very reliable
Done correctly, a stock block turbo setup can be great fun and very reliable
there are so many people out there running stock boosted motors its ridiculous.. everyone's first turbo build was a stock motor. long as you have a decent motor with not to many miles you will be fine. get a solid and great tune and your worry free. !!!!!!!
I'm running a bone stock 95' GSR engine from head to toe with a gt3076r. Made 340whp/220whp 10.5 psi creeping to 12. Tune on Neptune by Alpha on 93 oct. Has been running without any problem for about 5 month. Tune it properly with good pars and it'll work.
bone stock ls motor. heres my build:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/another-bone-stock-ls-turbo-e85-gas-dyno-graph-2637168/
https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/another-bone-stock-ls-turbo-e85-gas-dyno-graph-2637168/
dont generalize. And I said...get a tune...if you dont get a tune you will blow.
What engine are you going to be adding a snail to?
I've been on a long trail of engines but my first turbo set-up was a bone stock GSR on a T3 .48 AR don't know the trim anymore and 12psi and a junk VAFC back in 04. To say the least I toasted that set up but I have since torn into a bunch of other engines that ppl boost on stock internals and I always find broken ring lands and lightly scared cylinders, that has been on tuned and base maps engines. So I just want to know what others have been running into but if u never have issues or tear it down then who's to know.
you can make power on stock motors, look at that gsr that T1 tuned thats over 450whp+ Its all about your tuner. And my civics higest pull was 428 and its made 15 or so passes in various weather at 18 psi on my old setup
The real questions is what did the guys at T1 find when they took the engine apart?? Thats more of what I like to know, I know it can be done but to what extent and what is the real limit and bang for buck what is the best??
its very simple. know what your getting into before you do it. know that the motor is stock and that it has limits.
obviously it can be done. put the setup on paper and call your tuner. he'll be able to point you in the right direction.
every engine has its braking points. like b20's and h22's have weak cylinder walls compared to a gsr/ls/b16. they start doing weird things around 350+whp.
i've ran all season this year with a stock gsr with a t3/67 on 13psi and creeping to 15psi. i dynoed @ 397whp 296wtq. and that was on a very conservitive tune. basically no timing at all in the car. my goal was to hit 11s and i did. 11.7@119 open diff and lifting at the 1000 because my cage wasnt certified.
obviously it can be done. put the setup on paper and call your tuner. he'll be able to point you in the right direction.
every engine has its braking points. like b20's and h22's have weak cylinder walls compared to a gsr/ls/b16. they start doing weird things around 350+whp.
i've ran all season this year with a stock gsr with a t3/67 on 13psi and creeping to 15psi. i dynoed @ 397whp 296wtq. and that was on a very conservitive tune. basically no timing at all in the car. my goal was to hit 11s and i did. 11.7@119 open diff and lifting at the 1000 because my cage wasnt certified.
I've been on a long trail of engines but my first turbo set-up was a bone stock GSR on a T3 .48 AR don't know the trim anymore and 12psi and a junk VAFC back in 04. To say the least I toasted that set up but I have since torn into a bunch of other engines that ppl boost on stock internals and I always find broken ring lands and lightly scared cylinders, that has been on tuned and base maps engines. So I just want to know what others have been running into but if u never have issues or tear it down then who's to know.
wussup my honda ppl.....
i been searching for this answer everywhere n cant find it...every search leads me to this thread....
i was curious, between the f22a1/4/6, b18a1 and the d16z6....which would respond best to bolt-ons and which will respond best to a turbo bolt-on?....
i been searching for this answer everywhere n cant find it...every search leads me to this thread....
i was curious, between the f22a1/4/6, b18a1 and the d16z6....which would respond best to bolt-ons and which will respond best to a turbo bolt-on?....
A B20 has lower compression than a B18C1, but the B18C1 is a stronger engine to boost (thicker cylinder walls, among other things).
However, in general, the lower the static compression ratio, the easier it is to tune (or rather, the less chance of damage from a slight tuning mistake).
b16 stock with gsr cams, ram horn, 3" open d.p. and a to4b turbo, made 288whp on 8 lbs of boost. blew up when timing got messed with, befor then never skipped a beat.
stock motor is just less $ invested which equals less stress to you.
stock motor is just less $ invested which equals less stress to you.








