i hate starting new threads but these questions have my head spinning.

i am re doing my wiring harness on my 5G prelude. its the wiring harness for the H22A4 motor but it is going on an H22A1 that will be run on a P28 ECU with Hondata S300. ive got Precision Turbo 1000cc low impedance injectors that will go on the motor, but my question is: will i need to run a resistor box with this setup? my gut tells me yes but im just not sure.

i dont have the cash for an injector driver so i dont want to go that route either.

also, when redoing the wiring harness, can i remove the dead end injector plug with the cap that connects all of the yellow/black injector wires together by just soldering them all together and heatshrinking them into the harness?

i can take a few pictures of what im talking about if im not making sense...thanks to everyone in advance.

 

anyone have any advice on this? OBD I motor, low impedance injectors...do i need a resistor box?

 

The injector drivers that are in the P28 are designed for saturated type injectors. Not using some kind of way to convert the saturated driver inside the ecu to use peak and hold injectors will burn out the transistors inside the computer. You either need to use saturated injectors or use something inbetween to safely change the signal to a peak and hold. And just putting the resistor box found on some older hondas between the P28 and the P&H injectors will not work, ruins the ECU drivers.

Also if you are going to use saturated type injectors then you can connect all the yel/blk wires at the drivers shock tower by solder, butt connect, etc. Depends what you are going to do about the injector problem thou

 

what 92-95 civic do you know of that runs saturated injectors? I dont know of any....

go to a junkyard and get a resistor box from any OBD1 honda as well as the plug that connects to it so you have some wiring pigtails to solder onto. You will have One of the yel/blk wires that goes to the resistor which will end up with 4 yel/blk wires that run to your injectors.
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Toyota sv-1 history

 

perfect. that is exactly what i needed to know.

i ran a resistor box on my prior setup with DSM 450's on an H22A4. i'm putting an H22A1 in there now and redoing the harness so i just needed to know if i have to keep the resistor box or not...i have my answer! thanks.

thanks for responding, and thanks for answering my second question about the dead end connector, but ive never heard of an OBD I ecu frying as a result of using some kind of resistor with low impedance injectors. all that you're doing by running resistance on the ylw/blk wires is tricking the ecu into thinking that the resistors are high impedance. at least, of the several cars that i've seen with this injector setup, none have experienced a roasted ecu.

...again, thanks to both of you though for helping me out.

 

Honda's doing exactly what you're telling him will ruin the ECU. They take low impedance "peak and hold" injectors and wire a big fat resistor in-line to use them as saturated, high impedance injectors. If you want to run the low impedance "peak and hold" injectors just wire in a resistor box lke the OBD1 Hondas have. If you don't the injectors will pull more current than the saturateds and fry the ECU's injector driver circuit.

 

Depending on what the resistance is of the box he gets and the resistance of what ever injectors he uses, it could still cause a problem. But yes ultimately that is what honda is doing, but using all the designed parts for that setup

 

i run 440cc peak hold injectors on an obd1 ecu with an r.box and no problems yet i'm runing an h22a4 in a 88 lude with a ryjumper.( obdo car ,obd2 motor and it runs on obd1 ecu).
i need a chipped p28 because no vtec yet

 

I accept with information:its the wiring harness for the H22A4 motor but it is going on an H22A1 that will be run on a P28 ECU with Hondata S300.

 

Im helping a friend with doing something like this. He has a H22a4 and Im just giving him a set of OBD1 injectors and the resistor box. He can use it if he wires it into the Blk/yel wire.

 

what?!?

 

He is saying that your car is OBD2 wiring. But you are putting an OBD1 motor into the car. You are also using a P28 which uses the same type of injectors as the OBD2 motors.

And he says he understands that

Lol

 

haha...cool, i guess. hell of a first post here on h-t tho...

 

If it means anything, this guy is completely right. I dropped an H22A1 into my 97 Prelude and I did exactly the same as he described. I pulled a resistor off of an OBD1 Accord and wired it into the system. And unless I'm retarded, there's absolutely nothing wrong with my ECU from using this configuration.

Also, just to make sure you're on track, you ARE aware of the different locations of the TDC and Crank Position sensors, right?

 

yes. that's the one last issue that i have to tackle. ive been following these two write ups:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...a1+Distributor

http://bbmoto.net/wiki/index.php?DistributorConversion

i dont have an OBD I distributor yet, but i plan on buying one soon. i did go to the junkyard yesterday to hack one of the 4-pin O2 sensor connectors off of a car to try to convert my harness to work with the OBD I dizzy.

i'm gonna PM you to see if you can give me some insight on how to go about getting all this **** straight...there used to be a great thread on here outlining everything and it will no longer load.

 

http://www.prelude-tuner.com/forum/s...ead.php?t=7908


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FACEBOOK STOCKS

 

that thread is great. i had to register but def well worth it.

did honda make an OBD I prelude distributor with an internal coil? is it possible to convert to that? i'd like to get rid of the bulky external coil.

 

yes, they did. I believe it is only the JDM distributors that have the internal coil but dont hold me to that lol. And yes, converting to internal coil is very easy.

take both caps and rotors off and compare the two. Make the external dizzy insides wiring look like the internal dizzy's wiring and then put the rotor and internal dizzy cap on. and you have yourself an internal coil. Just fyi tho, the internal coils are more prone to burning out due to heat. This is likely why honda moved to external coils.
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Vaporizer Manufacturers

 

got you. that all makes sense. i guess that the hard part from here is finding a suitable/working/affordable JDM distributor. someone posted this site over there on p-t: http://hondadistributors.net/ if you go to the prelude section, it confirms what you said about the JDM dizzys being int coil. it will be rough shelling out $240 though. especially when my plan was to roll into advanced and scoop up a $80 reman'd dizzy.

if i do pick up a reman'd one though, can i tuck the external coil pack under the IM by using a longer plug wire? in other words, does the length of the jumper wire that goes to the external coil matter. not sure where i'm going to find a suitable wire that long but i may give it a try.

 

test resistance.
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Vaporizer Manufacturer

 

word.

damn i suck at most everything electrical. i'll figure it out with my $4 harbor freight multimeter though...

 

you can get a jdm T-60 dizzy on xenocron.com for $220.

 

cool thanks man...i actually think that the one on the hondadistributors.com site was $215 and shipping is $25. i'm gonna try a stock, external coil dizzy for now, get it working, and convert it later.

 

Man you guys are over paying on dizzies.

What I do, is this. Go to the autozone, and get one. Burn out 3 a year, but its warrantied for life.

Just a suggestion. I do the same thing with axels

 

exactly. that was my plan originally--and i'll probably stick to it at this point. typically, i do the same thing with axles, brake parts, starters, etc. theyre cheaper because they are remans, theyll give you a core refund no matter what your core looks like (most of the time...), and theyve got the lifetime warrantee.