Whats up everyone. I've been lurking here for a while, im not much of a poster, but I've recently aquired some parts to begin my long awaited B20Vtec build. I'm hoping to get some input from some of the vets who are more than familliar with a similar build and get some suggestions, and answers to questions I come across durring this build of mine. Im not in a huge hurry to get it done and installed. It'll get done when its done. Untill then I want to gather as much info and ideas in hopes of building something in the general area of 230-250 whp, daily driveable, trouble free and reliable as possible B20v!

Parts I picked up at a killer price:

*Virgin B20Z2 block w/stock crank, main caps, main bolts, rear main seal plate
*CP 12.5:1 piston set, BNIB, 84mm bore part #SC7120
*GSR oil pan, tray and pickup
*GSR OEM girdle with 5 main caps and bolts
*GSR OEM Honda Timing belt
*OEM Honda B18 (LS) rods

I will be using a ported and polished B16a2 head with Skunk2 pro 2 cams, (probably S2) valve springs, retainers, and valves along with S2 intake manifold machined to match the Omni Power 68mm tb on it and Password:jdm intake. Considered ITB's, but was told by the man who will be doing the tune (Evans-Tuning), they won't be in my best interest if I want to regularly drive it. I have a competition clutch stage 4 clutch kit hanging around to use if needed.

Obviously the bottom end is where I will need to focus most of my attention right now, and is also what Im most unfamilliar with, so thats what Im hoping to get the ideas and suggestions for.

On the list of obvious things to get and consider:
*P72 water pump
*P72 oil pump
*Some sort of kit for the vtec head swap (leaning towards golden eagle, but was told not to use their head gasket, but never heard the reason)
*ARP head studs
*ARP rod bolts
*Maybe different pistons, alot of people are saying the CP's that came with the "package" won't be my best bet for daily drivability.
*either Eagle Rods, or have the OEM LS rods shot peened
*Lightened and balanced OEM B20 Crank,
*OEM Honda crank bearings

I think that about sums it up. I've read through FAQ's and other build threads numorous times, but just wanted to post up my actual build and get more personalized responses and suggestions.

Anyone who wants to leave nonsense posts, save your time and do it in a different thread. I'm only interested in legit responses and suggestions.

Thanks in advance everyone.

 

Looks to me like that would all meet your power goal. I'm sure you already know, but be sure to get a good quality tune. I'm assuming you're going to be using pump gas?

Our B20V with a similar set up and CR is making 244whp 170tq on pump gas, daily driven. We have custom Wiseco's and static CR is at about 12.9:1 and we have Jun3's in a P72 head, but other than that we have a similar build.

 

just ask jeff for all of ur questions if i were u.

 

All b-series oil pumps after 1996 are p72 oil pumps, even the TypeR uses the same oil pump. Golden Eagle makes a nice and complete b20/vtec conversion kit. In order for the gsr main griddle to fit, it has to be line horned.

 

ive heard that thrown around a couple times also. anyone have an answer why itd be better to use a different gasket with the GE kit? seems silly for it to not work well with the rest of the kit.

im anxious to see how this turns out, what car is it going into?

 

Yeah, I definately want to remain using pump gas (93) Any links to a build thread of yours? Just to add to my research. lol

Think these pistons on shot peened LS rods would hold up just fine for daily use,(once tuned obviously)?

I emailed him after I picked up the stuff, hes the one telling me not to use these pistons. Like I said if its best not to use them, no big deal,I'll try to sel lthese and pick something else up, but just looking for other opinions from people who may have used them or similar. I mean I already have them, using them would save me some shopping.

Jeff (evans tuning) also said that the gsr girddle won't be necessary either, so unsure if i will use it.

Yeah, I don't know anyone who has used an entire GE kit. A friend of mine pieced together his vtec kit. I'd just rather buy everything as a complete package, just to eliminate some hassel.

I too am anxious to see how it comes out. Aside from just looking at parts online and keeping things together in my garage I have yet to start on it.

It'll be going into a Civic Coupe

Thanks to everyone for your input so far. Its all much appreaciated.Once things get rolling, I'll post up pics.

 

bump for others input on my build...

 

Finally got around to ordering the oem Honda water and oil pumps!! Next on the list will be the golden eagle vtec head kit, and APR hardware.

Im still trying to lock down a PR3 head (a friends si was stolen and recovered. The engine was fully intact!), so untill I have the head in my possession, I'll be concentrating on the bottom end. Worst case scenerio I'll be using the PR3 head already on my car (stock B16A2)

Still up for more input/suggestions on my piston choice....I'm debating on selling the CP's and getting a set of RS machines 12:1 in 84.5mm as suggested by my tuner.

 

then it is probably smart idea, if he is reputable.

 

Why is he telling you to switch them?

 

I was to post that your bran LS stock rods are not great in this nice set up !
They last but they flex on hi rpm. How many time they gonna flex befor they brake ?
I like the stock 84mm bore to save the sleeve but stroke it... you kould go easily on 92 stroker and make bether torque to help hp
On a B18bvtec i did 203Whp 145TQ CTR cams so imagine on B20 i guess 155TQ/ 219whp
and a little stroke on B20 165TQ/ 230Whp RELIABLE 7600rpm peak HP
Stock springs, stock valves, stock cams Nice IDL... etch.

 

Direct quote from Jeff Evans @ evans-tuning when I emailed him about the build.

"The forged pistons can be used on a street engine, however they will not seal up as well as a cast style piston. The RS machines pistons are cast material like OEM, and can provide a tighter ring seal/bore seal. They are lighter as well all of which makes power"


I was going to have them shot peened, but I've also been kicking the idea around for eagle or similar rods.

230whp would nearly meet my ideal goal...hmmm

 

That would not be my choice. Forged pistons are stronger...I can't see cast pistons being lighter either. I would/have forged pistons over cast any day.

 

Granted im openly admitting to being an engine build noob, thats what I always thought. Chances are I will be using the CPs I have, unless the CR is going to be too much for pump gas.

 

I don't see 12.5:1 being a problem for pump gas as long as you use a decent engine management.

 

i need some help on buildin a b20vtec bottem end... i want at least 250 or more whp.. what ar the best piston and rods and othe accesseries i can use to make that happen?

 

Pretty sure I'll be using Hondata S300

 

You will be fine doing that set-up

 

eagle rods for insurance IMHO, ditch the girdle unless you want to align bore the mains.
Cool idea but not necessary.
CP pistons should be ok WITH A REAL TUNE.
Forged pistons also need looser clearances which MAY take some life off your bore and give you a little extra noise on cold starts.
However the forged resist detonation better so you got that going for you.

 

girdle not really needed then?

 

Yes, after some thought I've moved the rods on my next to buy list.

somone I know built a b20v and didn't use a girdle so I was up in the air to use it myself.

Awesome info. Thanks.

p72 water and oil pumps came in today.

 

I do have forged Wiseco pistons and only .003 clearence N/A no N.O.S. and they slap for 5 wen cold started