I just recently purchased a GSR swap with B16 transmission from a friend of mine. I'm looking to upgrade it for a time, not power.

Engine break down:
GSR Head
Gasket match port on both sides
Stock springs/retainers
GSR cams
Blox intake manifold
Stock throttle body

GSR Block
Stock sleeve block
Stock LS crank
Stock LS rods
Stock B16 pistons

B16 Transmission
Stock

That's how I got it.

This is what I want to do to it:

Head
Edlebrock Performer X intake manifold
Hytech Rep header (maybe something better if the funds allow)
S2S2 Cams/Pro series gears
Either Supertech or Skunk valvetrain

Block
Not really sure what I should do here.
Would I be fine with what I have, or
should I upgrade to high comp. pistons
and stronger rods? Or, have the stock rods
shot peened?

Transmission
MFactory LSD
~12lb Flywheel
Not sure on clutch

Based on what I have planned, assuming the tune is pretty good, should I hit 12s in a full interior EJ6 hatch? How much power, roughly, should I be looking at?

I'm still researching on my own, so forgive me if it's been covered a lot. Just looking for some advice to head in the right direction.

Budget is probably a little over $3000.

 

Cams and I.M. choice look good. You already have a decent CR, no need to go with higher comp pistons. Upgrade the stock rod bolts to some ARP's, no need to shot peen the rods. In my opinion, rather than an LSD, upgrade your suspension. Get some good mounts/inserts/DIY polyurethane sealant in the stock mounts, and some good tires.

 

are they the usdm b16 pistons or jdm p30's?

i would say the pro1 cams would do better than the stage 2's. headwork will also do wonders.

an LSD will certainly help, suspension of course too

 

u want a eazy way to hit 12's
stock b20v set-up with i/h/e and a good tune will get u in the 12's

 

I'm looking to keep my block, at least for now.

I'm going to go with the LSD either way. Suspension will consist of Omni Street full coilovers (already have them) and Full-Race traction bar. Innovative mounts are also on the list.

I currently have a full Apex-i WS2 catback, but thinking it may hold me back. I'll probably just swap out the muffler for something more "free-flow".

So, ARP rod bolts with the same pistons? Sounds good to me. About the pistons, I'm not sure which they are, but I'll find out tonight.

As for headwork, I'm planning on leaving it with the gasket matched exhaust/intake. Skunk 2 stage 1, or 2s?

I was also thinking about an MFactory Final Drive. I don't know how to calculate gear ratios, so I'm not sure which to look at.

 

Mfactory FD kits are nice I just got a 4.9 FD. Use the Mfactory gear calculator below
http://www.teammfactory.com/gearcalculator.php

 

Any other opinions?

Not sure what size throttle body to run.

Even if I don't hit my goal, I'm sure a small shot of nitrous will put me where I want to be. Just wanted to do something different and for the price I got the setup for, I couldn't pass it up.

 

Looking into the RMF Narrow header replica. Looks promising. May invest towards that instead of the Hytech Rep.

 

what a coincidence I am doing a very similiar build.

b16b with ls crank and rods only mine will have a 82mm bore with rs machines.

Iam so excited,I already have the head and just bought a gasket set set freshin it up,
I also had a friend ship me an ls crank,rod combo out of an 94ls(150 bucks) so all I gotta do know is order pistons and wait untill I can have it machined,balanced and assembled.

l will let you know what I make and run (I estimate Ill have it running by new years)in my ek4. having an extra +30whp over my b16a2 will certainly be a great start for 2010!

 

MFactory final drive.

 

I should have mine running mid January. Depending on how long the parts take to come in, that is.

 

You are goin in the right direction. Slap some ARP bolts in the bottom end and rev to 9-9500rpm. Cams, intake, and header are something you dont want to skimp on.

Any idea on weight of the car?

 

Full interior EK hatch. Not exactly sure.

Do I have to do anything to the rods to install the ARP bolts? I heard of ovaling with the clamping capacity of the ARP bolts.

 

u got this man i hope everything u want can go thru man.

 

Thanks Alex! I hope so too.

 

Pistons are PR3s.

What throttle body should I go with, Omni 70mm or Blox 68mm?

Really excited to get this going. Parts are going to be coming in nonstop for a while!

 

neither.

professional products 68mm which tapers to 65 and port match it to the manifold. they are like 130 bucks.

 

Ok, thanks!

 

What other company offers an equivalent, if not better set of cams to the Skunk2 Pro 2s, for a better price?

 

no one i know of, they are a damn good cam, that i havent really seen matched. The only close cam ive seen is i believe the **** (im not sure which but it was rocket) and i havent seen a head to head yet.

 

What would be the benefit of having it taper down compare to the blox (if the blox is straight 68mm through)?

 

Increased velocity, better throttle response

 

Good info. Thanks guys

 

Im going with the same set up but with b16 head... what are you planning to red line at j/w.. i heard that ls rods cant go to 8k it might just snap...

 

If the Rods aren't shot-peened and hung w/ the new arp rod bolts in them, any rod can snap, be LS , GSR or otherwise. I'm at 9K w/ my GSR/LS Crank setup.. no issues of any kind. But I'm also very thorough at what is being built.