So I've got a set of AEM front brake pads on our 96 Honda Accord EX. They have worked fine and no complaints. They have around 42-43k miles on them. I replaced the rear brake pads with Raybestos Ceramic brake pads about 12k miles ago. Anyway, I heard a squeel that sounded like the squeeler tab. I thought instantly that it was the front brakes since I'd just put rear brakes on no that long ago. To my surprise when I pulled the front wheels off the front brakes looked almost new. I'd say easily more than half life left. When I pulled the rear wheels off the brakes were once again worn out. 12k miles seems crazy low for rear brakes.

Do I have something going on here that could be causing the rears to wear out faster? I also put new calipers on when I replaced the rears before as the seals looked dry rotted. Is something not letting the fronts work as hard as they should? They seem like they should be worn down more to me.

Or do ceramic pads just not last? What's the deal here?

 

Did you check to see if the rears are dragging on the rotor when not pressed? And is it just one side or both?

 

It was both sides and they didn't seem to be anymore than usual that I could tell. I may have to check them again.

 

Do you use the handbrake? If yes, your original cables could be rusted out and are not returning back after you release the hand brake. Ive seen that before, as it causes the rear brakes to drag as MuffinMan said.

 

Yes I do. Hmm, maybe I need to check on that. What's the best way to go about checking it?

 

Hold in the e-brake release button and slowly raise the lever until you feel resistance from the cables (There should be a good half inch to an inch of free-play). If while holding in the button and beginning to raise the lever you feel resistance right away, the cable may somehow be too tight or damaged.

As TheMuffinMan said, they may be dragging. Jack the rear wheels off the ground, support with stands (ideally) and spin each rear wheel with the e-brake completely off and check for rotational resistance or noise from the pads. Another quicker way to check if the rear calipers are sticking is to feel the temperature of the wheels after a normal short drive. If the wheel is abnormally hot (some heat will be generated from actual hydraulic braking) then it may be sticking calipers. Our 5th generation Accords use an integral rear caliper, meaning the e-brake is incorporated into the rear calipers. There is a small lever that mechanically moves the caliper piston outward via a cam. I have heard of the cam and lever system binding and sticking causing the rear calipers to stay partially applied. This is especially true on cheaper aftermarket calipers.

 

Just do a visual inspection, usually where the cable is supported by metal brackets by the rear suspension. They usually rust out and eat through the rubber insulation, causing the inside cable to seize up.

 

your brakes are dragging, check your e=brake cable and adjust / replace if needed

Hondas with 4 wheel disk brakes typically wear the rear brakes faster since the calipers are a screw type and don't retract slightly like the fronts do. every single honda and acura i have had with 4 wheel disk bakes has had the rears wear first

1998 accord LX-V6 rear at 90K fronts still original at 100K when I sold the car
2002 CL-S rear brakes at 55K fronts at 81K

 

Thats interesting, because mine rear disc pads are still holdling up and I'm allready on a 2nd set of new one the front. LOL, I'm still wating for my rear calipers to fail since they got 218K on them. Some how they still are working and I'm able to screw back the caliper with ease.