B18c motor build. All motor
I think this is the right section to ask these questions, I have a b18c motor that was locked up becuase a rod bolt had came loose and had wedged a rod end cap in between the block and the crank. (It has never been rebuilt)
I was thinking that while the motor is disassembled, why not build the block. I am planning on keeping the stock heade the way it is for now and just start with the bottom end build. I am looking to go all motor with no intentions of force induction or nitrous.
I just want to know everyones opinion on what route to go, what pistons to go with. Should I build it to stock specs with oem ITR pistons?
I am trying to build this bottom end on a budget, so the best bang for the buck!!
Thank you to everyone that reads this and can help!!!
I was thinking that while the motor is disassembled, why not build the block. I am planning on keeping the stock heade the way it is for now and just start with the bottom end build. I am looking to go all motor with no intentions of force induction or nitrous.
I just want to know everyones opinion on what route to go, what pistons to go with. Should I build it to stock specs with oem ITR pistons?
I am trying to build this bottom end on a budget, so the best bang for the buck!!
Thank you to everyone that reads this and can help!!!
Last edited by kcvi3tstyl3; Dec 4, 2009 at 11:48 AM.
If you want to stick with the B18C, the best performance/$ modification would be to up the displacement. Stock sleeves can support up to 82mm bore, or you can sleeve and support an 84 to 85mm bore. This is what I did.
You can also use a stroker crank since you will be replacing the damaged ITR crank. The ITR/GSR cranks are both 87.2mm, but the ITR crank has counterweights for better high RPM stability, but is heavier as a result. Eagle makes good stroker cranks.
For the cylinder head, Skunk2 Pro series cams, maybe a bit of headwork, and of course supporting valvetrain.
Don't forget a good tune, otherwise it is all a moot point.
The All-Motor forum has a sticky with dyno charts with build specs. You can browse those and see what most people use for parts to achieve your power goals.
You can also use a stroker crank since you will be replacing the damaged ITR crank. The ITR/GSR cranks are both 87.2mm, but the ITR crank has counterweights for better high RPM stability, but is heavier as a result. Eagle makes good stroker cranks.
For the cylinder head, Skunk2 Pro series cams, maybe a bit of headwork, and of course supporting valvetrain.
Don't forget a good tune, otherwise it is all a moot point.
The All-Motor forum has a sticky with dyno charts with build specs. You can browse those and see what most people use for parts to achieve your power goals.
What kind of power are you looking to make? What is your budget? Are you building the head too?
You can switch to an LS crank/rod set-up for a longer stroke(small increase in tq.). Eagle and others sell crank/rod combos as well.
If you are going with higher c/r like 12:1 or higher I would recommend sleeving the block. The cylinders could "ovalize" due to the high compression.
Block Sleeving: http://www.laskeyracing.com/shop/sleeving.htm
I like Carrillo rods and CP pistons but that's just my opinion.
As 92TypeR has mentioned, a good tune is key to make all the parts work together. Without it the freshly built motor could become a paperweight in a hurry.
You can switch to an LS crank/rod set-up for a longer stroke(small increase in tq.). Eagle and others sell crank/rod combos as well.
If you are going with higher c/r like 12:1 or higher I would recommend sleeving the block. The cylinders could "ovalize" due to the high compression.
Block Sleeving: http://www.laskeyracing.com/shop/sleeving.htm
I like Carrillo rods and CP pistons but that's just my opinion.
As 92TypeR has mentioned, a good tune is key to make all the parts work together. Without it the freshly built motor could become a paperweight in a hurry.
I am trying to make the most power for the price. I rather not go the route of sleeving the block, because that would be out of my budget range.
I would like to keep the block the way it is and mess with the internals. I will not be messing with the head at the time. Just the block.
So would LS rods and crank be the best bang for the buck in getting power for the money?
I would like to keep the block the way it is and mess with the internals. I will not be messing with the head at the time. Just the block.
So would LS rods and crank be the best bang for the buck in getting power for the money?
I looked into the brand new stroker kits and they are quite expensive. Its sad to say, but i dont have a lot of money, so I am trying to create a decent build on a budget. I just wanna go with the best price for the power. I will keep the head stock for now, and start the bottom end build.
Any ideas on the best bottom end budget build?
Any ideas on the best bottom end budget build?
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