ITR trans shift feels crunchy
It it normal for the ITR trans to feel slightly crunchy when putting it in the first few gears? I just swapped my bad GSR tranny for a used ITR trans. I also installed Energy Suspension shift bushings. Followed the Helms. Torqued everything to spec. Reused the clutch/flywheel that came with the trans (short on cash right now). Filled with Torco MTF.
At first, it would sometimes be difficult to put into 1st gear and crunch in 2nd, and 3rd. But I adjusted the clutch pedal and bled the clutch again and it seems to have improved it. Barely have 50 miles on this trans but I would like to find out before I leave feedback on it. I got it on ebay from Japanese Star. Hmotors didn't have any in stock and I have trouble getting them on the phone (as usual).
Love the gearing. This is how the GSR should have come stock!
At first, it would sometimes be difficult to put into 1st gear and crunch in 2nd, and 3rd. But I adjusted the clutch pedal and bled the clutch again and it seems to have improved it. Barely have 50 miles on this trans but I would like to find out before I leave feedback on it. I got it on ebay from Japanese Star. Hmotors didn't have any in stock and I have trouble getting them on the phone (as usual).
Love the gearing. This is how the GSR should have come stock!
Nope, all hydraulic B-series (GSR, ITR, B16, LS) have the same, great, fluid and precise throw and 'feel' to them. Internals to the trans are just a bit abused and roughed up. Thorough rebuild of the shift pieces is probably just needed to freshen it all up. That's all.
So is that something I need to fix right away? Am I doing damage to the trans if I keep driving on it? I was planning on pulling it next summer to change the clutch.
When you say "rebuild of the shift pieces" does that mean replacing parts? Can you give me an idea of which parts I might need to replace?
Thank you.
When you say "rebuild of the shift pieces" does that mean replacing parts? Can you give me an idea of which parts I might need to replace?
Thank you.
Shift pieces on the gear sets include:
- 1-5 synchronizer rings (5)
- 1/2, 3/4, 5/R synchro sleeves (3)
- 1/2, 3/4, 5/R synchro hubs (3)
- 1st and 2nd gear on countershaft (2)
- 3rd, 4th, and 5th gears on mainshaft (3)
You most likely won't NEED the gears. But it's good just to do the majority of the other stuff. Hard to tell until you get in there - then you can actually inspect everything. You can certainly drive on it, just go easy on the really hard, fast shifting when you don't actually need to.
- 1-5 synchronizer rings (5)
- 1/2, 3/4, 5/R synchro sleeves (3)
- 1/2, 3/4, 5/R synchro hubs (3)
- 1st and 2nd gear on countershaft (2)
- 3rd, 4th, and 5th gears on mainshaft (3)
You most likely won't NEED the gears. But it's good just to do the majority of the other stuff. Hard to tell until you get in there - then you can actually inspect everything. You can certainly drive on it, just go easy on the really hard, fast shifting when you don't actually need to.
Turns out it was the clutch master cylinder.
Japanese Star customer service is pretty awesome. They were willing to give me a partial refund... but I tried the master cylinder since there was some leakage near the pedal and now all is well.
Japanese Star customer service is pretty awesome. They were willing to give me a partial refund... but I tried the master cylinder since there was some leakage near the pedal and now all is well.
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.nate
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Nov 30, 2012 05:38 PM




