need some questions answered
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Who the fack changed my title?!
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Houston, TX, USA
need some questions answered
i was on the net and came across this list of parts that were recommended for an ls/vtec build, how true is this and has any one ran these items before?
from said website:
Building an LS/VTEC is not for the feint of heart or shallow of wallet, but it is worth all the time and money that it will take. In this article I will assume that you have read our recommended parts list, you have an understanding of engine building, you own a Helm's (or equivalent) manual, and you have the parts you need for the minimum (in my opinion) build. An engine stand is a nice tool to have, it is not necessary but it is very helpful. You can get them at any major parts store; I got mine from AutoZone for $65.
Our LSVTEC parts list gives several options, here is the list (beyond block and head) that I would call a minimum:
-Pistons from any B16 because LS pistons do not have large enough valve reliefs for VTEC intake valves. Forged pistons would be better, but if you can afford them B16 pistons will work well.
-New piston rings. Honda rings work well, or you can use your preferred aftermarket.
-Cam gears (brand is up to you, some folks have had trouble with AEM gears slipping, after replacing the bolts, I have had no trouble with my AEM gears).
-A B series DOHC VTEC distributor. An LS one will work with some serious modifications, but this is not a good idea.
-An ECU that matches the OBD of your engine and that is setup to run a DOHC VTEC engine. I run a P72, but a P30, P61 or a chipped P28 would work fine for an OBD1 car. Also, if you are using a GSR head, and the stock intake manifold, you are going to want a P72 from the GSR inorder to control the IAB butterflies.
-Water and oil pumps from a GSR or ITR. I don't consider using the LS water pump an option as it is likely to cavitate at high RPM. This means you have to run the GSR timing belt.
-ARP rod bolts. If you are using LS rods this is not a must, but it is a damn good idea. The stock LS bolts were not designed to handle the forces of 8000 RPM. $55 is not much to pay for peace of mind.
-ARP head studs. They hold better than stock and you don't run the risk of destroying the threads in the block every time you pull the head. You want the studs for the B18C1.
from said website:
Building an LS/VTEC is not for the feint of heart or shallow of wallet, but it is worth all the time and money that it will take. In this article I will assume that you have read our recommended parts list, you have an understanding of engine building, you own a Helm's (or equivalent) manual, and you have the parts you need for the minimum (in my opinion) build. An engine stand is a nice tool to have, it is not necessary but it is very helpful. You can get them at any major parts store; I got mine from AutoZone for $65.
Our LSVTEC parts list gives several options, here is the list (beyond block and head) that I would call a minimum:
-Pistons from any B16 because LS pistons do not have large enough valve reliefs for VTEC intake valves. Forged pistons would be better, but if you can afford them B16 pistons will work well.
-New piston rings. Honda rings work well, or you can use your preferred aftermarket.
-Cam gears (brand is up to you, some folks have had trouble with AEM gears slipping, after replacing the bolts, I have had no trouble with my AEM gears).
-A B series DOHC VTEC distributor. An LS one will work with some serious modifications, but this is not a good idea.
-An ECU that matches the OBD of your engine and that is setup to run a DOHC VTEC engine. I run a P72, but a P30, P61 or a chipped P28 would work fine for an OBD1 car. Also, if you are using a GSR head, and the stock intake manifold, you are going to want a P72 from the GSR inorder to control the IAB butterflies.
-Water and oil pumps from a GSR or ITR. I don't consider using the LS water pump an option as it is likely to cavitate at high RPM. This means you have to run the GSR timing belt.
-ARP rod bolts. If you are using LS rods this is not a must, but it is a damn good idea. The stock LS bolts were not designed to handle the forces of 8000 RPM. $55 is not much to pay for peace of mind.
-ARP head studs. They hold better than stock and you don't run the risk of destroying the threads in the block every time you pull the head. You want the studs for the B18C1.
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