Hey guys, i took some pictures of my knock sensor simulator and decided to share some info on how to by pass it.

firstly the reason for the knock-off knock sensor is for people who have an obd1 motor without a knock sensor in their obd2 specific car which had one i.e. me and my d16z6 in my 98 ex.

So here it goes. The end product.(i got the wire colors mixed up so ignore em) I used a alligator clip for the wire going to the knock sensor so i can remove it easily when i am done, this is optional.



So first you need to buy one or two piezoelectric sensor from radio shack their product number is 273-073 i think they are like 3-4 dollars and it should be located near the buzzers section. I bought 2.


Now you have to hooked them up in a series circuit meaning line them up left to right like this. If your just using one skip this part.


Now the negative is going to a ground source, i choose straight to the battery (note the color of my wires were mixed up so my red is ground and my black is power)


and connect the other end to the knock sensor input, i choose the actual sensor and made a little incision on the wire where i hooked up my alligator clip to.



next tape the sensors to the fuel rail or anywhere where there is good vibrations.



Make sure you solder/electrical tape all connections. and then ur good to go!!



any questions feel free to ask.

 

Why are you running 2 sensors? Did it pass inspection?

 

i ran 2 sensors because it produces more voltage. the original thread about this was from

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/knock-sensor-bypass-methods-part-numbers-1181854/

He said he ran one and he had to drive alot rougher and what not. so i just went with 2, and yes i passed my emissions yesterday. it was good to go but uh dont let ur inspector know about it lol unless ur cool with him like i am.

 

Which way did you position the transducers??? With the open hole pointing up, or with the open hole down against the fuel rail?

I've been trying to do this for the last week and still no luck. I have three of them wired up and still having a rough time. I have them in a series like you do; but i'm not 100% sure if my ground wire is properly grounded. I need to go home and re-wire them and make sure my ground is proper.

 

I believe i had the hole point up. any ways make sure you dont strap the transducer to the rail so tight it dosent wiggle. I used electrical tape and lighty taped it. good luck!

 

Ok, right now I have the holes pointing down towards the rail.

Thanks for the info. I'll post back w/ my results!

 

Do you know what kind of voltage it needs to put out??? i Have 3 of them hooked up and i'm going producing about .3 volts.

thanks

 

The transducer only makes about a half a volt at 4k rpms and the ECU usually sees about 1.5 volts. So if you try this and it doesn't work, you will have to find a better location to tape the transducer or you will have to add a second transducer to bump up the voltage.

quoted from the link i gave u earlier.

 

If i understand this correctly, the ECU is looking for 1.5 volts then??

 

according to him yessir.

 

well in that case something like this would work

http://www.powerstream.com/dc6.htm

or if you can find a 12v cd player or phone charger they tend to have output voltages around 1.5v.

 

I believe the ecu will be looking for a varying change in voltage around 1.5v. if its a constant voltage it may lead to a check engine light. you can try it and let us know the results !

 

my engine doesn't have a knock sensor so can't help ya there lol. you certainly might be on to something with the varying voltage thing though.

 

this doesnt work on mine. i have a green and black wire and i have tried it so many times. even with the knock sensor still attached and with the clips on the knock sensor itself. still check engine light and the code is still for the knock sensor

 

the knock sensor only has one wire. Unless you are saying green and black colored wire (as in singular wire).

 

if you have a knock sensor why are you trying to bypass it? i think you can find a new one on ht for less than 50 bucks.

I used this for like 100-200 miles so i can pass emissions. after that i go back to my obd1 ecu, i do this because the ecu records the voltage and adjusts the amount of fuel and timing thats fed to your engine and its all based of this varying voltage.

since its a mock voltage, it can affect gas mileage and performance because its not really adjusting itself to real facts.


any ways, if you elaborate a little more on how your set up, i'll try to help!

 

i could get a picture for you guys. thanks for the replys so fast.

my knock sensor has 2 wires going to it. 1 is green and 1 is black. this is a 97 ex harness. I bought 2 of the sensors and didnt no which wire to cut into so i tried hooking up the knock sensor and on the tip of it i used the alligator clips and ran the buzzer things and than grounded it to the battery.

My Motor has Cp pistons and eagle rods w/ a big ptw clearance and the pistons rattle to much (aka piston slap) so my motor sounds like a diesel truck. So pretty much my motor is built. it was making 390whp turboed on a d16y8. the smog guy said it would pass because the sniffer reads good but it always throws a knock sensor code after being at a consistent rpm for longer than 3secs (mostly when warm) BTW the timing was checked and its reading right on the dot.

Anyone no how i could fix this?

 

OK IM AN IDIOT! I FOUND MY PROBLEM!

EVER SINCE I BUILT THIS MOTOR 6MONTHS AGO, i mixed the knock sensor with the power steering pump. no more problems now! Only problem i have now is after smashing on it, the car will bog down with light throttle trying to cruise at a 35 or 40mph rate. only way to fix that was to dissconnect the ecu but thats awhole different problem...


thanks for telling me its a 1 wire sensor!

 

Before I go try this, is the knock sensor even something I need to worry about for running VTEC?

I have a d16y8 out of a 97 Del Sol (these y8s ran on an OBD2 p28 -- check for yourself on here if you doubt it). I have had 2 different knock sensors break off at the plug over the past month, and I'm tired of replacing them (going rate for one around here is 40-50 bucks and I can't afford to keep replacing them).

I'm running an obd1 p28. Does it even look for a knock sensor? There is a wire from my jumper harness for it, but does the ecu even need the knock sensor to run VTEC?

The car seems slower, but since its single cam, I don't know if I'm just not feeling VTEC engage or if its placebo effect. I'm only getting a CEL at ignition, and gas milage does not seem affected. I am so tired of messing with replacing knock sensors.

 

mmm how are the sensors breaking off? whatever the case is, if your running obd1, the ecu system will not look for the sensor.

However if you want to past state emissions, you need it for it will throw a cel if your on obd2.

 

I think the wire is too tight...its breaking the plastic receiving plug part clean off from the "bolt" part of the sensor.

If I can eliminate the knock sensor from why I'm not running VTEC -- & the solinoid & pressure switches are good -- something MUST be going on with this wire that runs from the jumper harness & is labeled for the knock sensor.

Is there any way the p28 -- via the jumper harness -- could be looking for a valid ground, 1.5v, or something that its not getting that would not allow VTEC to engage?

 

vtec not engaging can be due to many reasons. best suggestion is to search honda-tech for those reasons. i can tell you now though, since you are running obd1 the knock sensor does not factor into vtec.

 

VTEC will activate on OBD1 with the knock sensor code, but not OBD2

 

lol thats what i just said.......

 

Couldn't do anything else with that wire?? Looks like doo doo