Everything works well when I start the engine, it sputters very little when cold but goes away when warm. I think I need to clean the IACV & FITV to clear that up.

What happens is that when I get it to 4-5k RPM I get CEL 1 (Oxygen Sensor "A" (Primary) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor) and CEL 41 (Primary Oxygen Sensor - Heater circuit malfunction). This ONLY happens when I go over 4-5k RPM. I just replaced the O2 sensor today! The car is now OBD1, it used to be a 96Si. I have disconnected the 2ndary O2 sensor (after cat converter) as it is now useless.

The codes go away when I shut the engine off and start it back up. I don't understand how those CEL's are popping up and my RPM's are limited to 6500. There are no dents in my oil pan, I have no Vtec pressure switch/solenoid codes, my tach & speedo are operating fine which rules out VSS, and my oil level is perfect. This is a unique situation as I have searched and have not found another like mine, any help would be much appreciated.

 

Lol, just because you get a 41 or code 1 does not mean that your sensor is bad. The light indicated comes on to tell you that there is something wrong with either the circuit, or the air to fuel ratio. Since you get code 41 Id bet that you are running lean, or too rich.

That sputter at idle, is more like running lean. Your injectors might be clogged, dirty, or are the wrong injectors.

Reving to 6.5k is engine safe mode. Fix one thing at a time.

 

I think its too rich by the smell of the exhaust, it has a very powerful odor. I'll look around and see how much a tune up / timing adjust runs around here. If anyone has any recommendations in the puget sound area feel free to reply!

 

I would look at the wiring too. Preludes wiring sux after many years on the road.I kept getting CEL 23 knock sensor on mine ,replaced the sensor and still got the code.

 

....and....you replaced the wiring and it fixed it? I could assume that fixed your issue but then again assuming anything only digs a deeper hole 99% of the time.

 

What you need to do, is actually find out what the issue is. You can test the resistance between the the ecu and the sensor itself.

 

LOL really? I thought it would be ok just to ignore the problems...

 

You must of missed the part where I was helping you, lol.

Pull the hammer out on me will you. Last time I offer you some help on this forum.

 

Sorry, the obvious statement you made had me rolling for a few minutes straight. The "you need to find out what the issue is" killed me!

I havn't had much help on this forum other than alot of "views" if that were help I'd have it fixed by now, alas, that is not to be.

Any moderator can deactivate my account here. I'm done with it, this site isn't as "techy" as it plays out to be. Threads with issues that require a solid base of knowledge seem to fall under the pile of "I washed my car" posts, etc.

If I had issues with installing side skirts or a wing or something I'm sure their would be 100's of replies helping me with that.

 

Lol, thats because your issue isnt as simple as that.

What I meant with checking for your own problem is this.

You dont know if your issue is bad wiring.

Checking the continuity of the wiring circut from the ecu all the way to the actual 02 sensor is what you need to do to confirm that the wiring is bad, or not.

Also your in engine safe mode which only allows you to rev to 6.5k.

What you have here is a possible obd 2 to obd 1 conversion failure somewhere. The wiring that you or who ever did it, might have gone bad somewhere.

What you need to do here is actually get out there and give us some feed back. We have offered you suggestions on what to do, but unless the car is in our hands there isnt much we can do esp since you have pretty much done nothing but complain about the lack of help on this board.

 

Out of curiosity. You say your car is now OBD1, did you do a motor swap or something? Are you still using the stock ECU that came with the car or is it an OBD1 ECU?

 

First off after cooling down I realized that I was wrong for snapping at Acidcrakker. My most sincere apologies. I've been at wits end for a while. The troubleshooting has been ongoing for weeks and it's been over a month with only one car, 6 person family, & two jobs.

The issue turned out to be the P13 ECU. Its just too damn finicky. The shop initially recommended to me to run a chipped P28 but I declined since it only made sense to run the ECU that was meant for the engine.

Well, I was wrong. The shop in all its wisdom just told me that they wanted to try the P28 and see how it ran, (basicly showing the idiot "ME") that a puzzle piece from a different set won't necessarily fit in another set.

Man, did it run! Bone stock it pulled 177 wheel HP and 155 wheel lb. ft.

The guys at Commercial Auto in Lynnwood, Wa. really know their stuff. It was me and my unwillingness to change my view on what I wanted that prolonged this issue.

ANSWERS TO PREVIOUS QUESTIONS:

1- Continuity checks were performed on the harness just prior to them wiring the VTEC wires to the ECU.

2- Yes the car was originally a 96 Si (OBD 2) and was converted to OBD 1 via harness & ECU. I also disconnected my secondary O2 sensor as it was no longer needed and I knew it was bad. My original intention was to use the P13 w/ the swap but as you can see above that was not possible and I am now using a chipped P28. Secondary runners have been modified to open fully at WOT vice being RPM driven.