Turbo 5th Gen Accord FAQ.
Hello All - I’ve seen a lot of turbo accord owners lately. Thank God because I thought we were a dying breed, well maybe we are. In any case I thought I would start a thread detailing my experiences and pitfalls with a turbocharged auto. I guess eventually it will turn into a FAQ of some sort.
First I’ll start with a detailed listing of my setup:
1997 Accord SE 4 Dr Auto Model
Engine Mods:
Garrett T3/T4 .62AR turbo
Treadstone turbo manifold
Treadstone FMIC
XS Engineering wastegate
HKS BOV
Generic IC Piping
RC 310cc Injectors (Sorry I think I told someone I had 330, dunno what I was thinking)
AEM High Flow Fuel Rail
Xenotron 255lph Fuel Pump
Self Made Fuel Pressure Regulator
Generic Boost Controller
Fuel Pressure Gauge (Mounted to fuel rail, not in cabin)
EGR Block Plate (custom made) – EGR system removed completely
Oil Catch Can
Supporting Engine Mods (Engine management Support)
Greddy E-Manage Blue
Ignition Harness
Injector Harness and Support Tool
GM 3 Bar Map Sensor (Off a buick grand national)
MAP Check Valve (Also called missing link adapter)
Prosport EGT Gauge Assembly
PLX Wideband o2 Setup
Killer Glass Radiator viewing window
MSD Blaster 2 coil
MSD 6AL ignition
I think that’s it for now. I’ll edit more as I have more time. Right now I’m deployed to Iraq so I have to do a little at time. There are other mods like Battery relocation but I’ll talk about those later.
Ok let’s get started with some of the obvious things, like the size of the turbo. We all know that the most common ones out there available for the t3/t4 are .62 AR as far as I know. Like I said this is just from what I’ve seen. Remember when you’re picking your turbo size that your power band, with your head in stock form, redlines at like 5 – 6k so with this average sized turbo your spool begins between 2.5 and 3k. Full boost hits around 3.5kish. (Every car is different depending on how you abuse it). Keeping this in mind you are halfway through your power band when boost hits, very annoying. If you’re HP goals are between 2 and 300. Then you’re probably looking at a max of 12lbs or so boost if done right. Look for a smaller turbo because the F22B motor is one of the more torquey motors on the low end. Keep the spool down with a smaller turbo.
My EGT is placed closer to the hot side of the turbo to pull a more accurate reading. Most say you want to have it around 12” from the snail itself. I agree with that. The further down you go the more chance there is of heat dissipation and you begin to see less accurate readings exponentially. As far as the wideband o2 and this is a requirement whether you choose to tune your car or not, I believe should be welded into your manifold before the turbo but after the runners connect, here is why: Each cylinder is going to have its own independent air/fuel mixture. In a perfect world it would all be the same, but we know these motors are not blueprinted and there are too many factors affecting the mixture in the chamber. Coming out of the head if your o2 is closer to any one of the runners you’re going to predominantly be reading the mixture coming off that closer runner. If you’re closer to bank 1 and bank 4 goes completely lean and detonates, you won’t really see it on the gauge but you’ll hear it if you’re listening to your car.
This brings me to my next point. The F22B2 is ideal for boost because of its really low compression ratio but it was never designed for FI. Know that you have to pay attention to your car because craziness can and does happen.
When can stuff break when boosting? The answer is all the time, but this is the rule of thumb I have come to seen as a reality when dealing with Honda motors. On average the mechanical failure limit for the car is 50% more than its bhp. I got this figure from a techie at Honda years ago. Don’t ask who he is, cause I’m not putting other peoples personal email addresses out there. Back to the point. For the F22B2 the BHP is 140. 140 / 2 = 70. Add 70 to 140 to get 210. 210hp is the rough estimate for when stuff starts to break on your car.
I know it's not much but I'm on a NIPR network in Baghdad and needed a way to put it up so I can add more from my chew in a few hours. So Stay tuned I'll keep adding to this. If it doesn't get nuked first.
First I’ll start with a detailed listing of my setup:
1997 Accord SE 4 Dr Auto Model
Engine Mods:
Garrett T3/T4 .62AR turbo
Treadstone turbo manifold
Treadstone FMIC
XS Engineering wastegate
HKS BOV
Generic IC Piping
RC 310cc Injectors (Sorry I think I told someone I had 330, dunno what I was thinking)
AEM High Flow Fuel Rail
Xenotron 255lph Fuel Pump
Self Made Fuel Pressure Regulator
Generic Boost Controller
Fuel Pressure Gauge (Mounted to fuel rail, not in cabin)
EGR Block Plate (custom made) – EGR system removed completely
Oil Catch Can
Supporting Engine Mods (Engine management Support)
Greddy E-Manage Blue
Ignition Harness
Injector Harness and Support Tool
GM 3 Bar Map Sensor (Off a buick grand national)
MAP Check Valve (Also called missing link adapter)
Prosport EGT Gauge Assembly
PLX Wideband o2 Setup
Killer Glass Radiator viewing window
MSD Blaster 2 coil
MSD 6AL ignition
I think that’s it for now. I’ll edit more as I have more time. Right now I’m deployed to Iraq so I have to do a little at time. There are other mods like Battery relocation but I’ll talk about those later.
Ok let’s get started with some of the obvious things, like the size of the turbo. We all know that the most common ones out there available for the t3/t4 are .62 AR as far as I know. Like I said this is just from what I’ve seen. Remember when you’re picking your turbo size that your power band, with your head in stock form, redlines at like 5 – 6k so with this average sized turbo your spool begins between 2.5 and 3k. Full boost hits around 3.5kish. (Every car is different depending on how you abuse it). Keeping this in mind you are halfway through your power band when boost hits, very annoying. If you’re HP goals are between 2 and 300. Then you’re probably looking at a max of 12lbs or so boost if done right. Look for a smaller turbo because the F22B motor is one of the more torquey motors on the low end. Keep the spool down with a smaller turbo.
My EGT is placed closer to the hot side of the turbo to pull a more accurate reading. Most say you want to have it around 12” from the snail itself. I agree with that. The further down you go the more chance there is of heat dissipation and you begin to see less accurate readings exponentially. As far as the wideband o2 and this is a requirement whether you choose to tune your car or not, I believe should be welded into your manifold before the turbo but after the runners connect, here is why: Each cylinder is going to have its own independent air/fuel mixture. In a perfect world it would all be the same, but we know these motors are not blueprinted and there are too many factors affecting the mixture in the chamber. Coming out of the head if your o2 is closer to any one of the runners you’re going to predominantly be reading the mixture coming off that closer runner. If you’re closer to bank 1 and bank 4 goes completely lean and detonates, you won’t really see it on the gauge but you’ll hear it if you’re listening to your car.
This brings me to my next point. The F22B2 is ideal for boost because of its really low compression ratio but it was never designed for FI. Know that you have to pay attention to your car because craziness can and does happen.
When can stuff break when boosting? The answer is all the time, but this is the rule of thumb I have come to seen as a reality when dealing with Honda motors. On average the mechanical failure limit for the car is 50% more than its bhp. I got this figure from a techie at Honda years ago. Don’t ask who he is, cause I’m not putting other peoples personal email addresses out there. Back to the point. For the F22B2 the BHP is 140. 140 / 2 = 70. Add 70 to 140 to get 210. 210hp is the rough estimate for when stuff starts to break on your car.
I know it's not much but I'm on a NIPR network in Baghdad and needed a way to put it up so I can add more from my chew in a few hours. So Stay tuned I'll keep adding to this. If it doesn't get nuked first.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Mephistopheles
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
6
Feb 6, 2009 11:08 PM




