wanting to build 85mm sleeved b18 to get into 11's?
Hello,
I am setting myself a challenge to get a n/a b series into the 11's; this is very rare in the uk to do but it's a personal goal for me to do it. I have an eg6 chassis, which is already gutted of its interior circa 2204 ibs (still more to remove/reduce weight on). I am wanting to stay b series to in-keep with the car. This was my build idea:-
b18 block, darton mids sleeves and bored to 85mm
full rotating mass lightened/balanced with knifeedged crank
remove power steering- n1 pulley
lighten flywheel
all new gaskets
uprated oil pump
acl tri-metal bearings
Skunk 2 pro 3 cams, ti springs and retainers
skunk flat face valves
b16 head
5 angle valve job
mild portwork
edelbrook victor-x intake mani
throttle body (70mm??)
high comp pistons (unsure of what compression ratio I will need to run pro 3 cams?)
4.4 transmission
mapped on hondata s300
decent header (ideas?)
with weight down to around 2000 ibs, is it likely I will get anywhere near 11's on mickey thompsons?
I am setting myself a challenge to get a n/a b series into the 11's; this is very rare in the uk to do but it's a personal goal for me to do it. I have an eg6 chassis, which is already gutted of its interior circa 2204 ibs (still more to remove/reduce weight on). I am wanting to stay b series to in-keep with the car. This was my build idea:-
b18 block, darton mids sleeves and bored to 85mm
full rotating mass lightened/balanced with knifeedged crank
remove power steering- n1 pulley
lighten flywheel
all new gaskets
uprated oil pump
acl tri-metal bearings
Skunk 2 pro 3 cams, ti springs and retainers
skunk flat face valves
b16 head
5 angle valve job
mild portwork
edelbrook victor-x intake mani
throttle body (70mm??)
high comp pistons (unsure of what compression ratio I will need to run pro 3 cams?)
4.4 transmission
mapped on hondata s300
decent header (ideas?)
with weight down to around 2000 ibs, is it likely I will get anywhere near 11's on mickey thompsons?
you should be able to make the power, provided you have a good tuner and a good flowing head. after that, you just need to set the car up right to hook. realistically speaking, you should be able to get 1.55-1.65 60's, provided you have everthing set up right. Good luck on your quest!
cool, definately going to aim for it now, 12.5 cr should be doable hopefully on uk 99ron with octane booster, anyone know how do rocket motorsports **** cams compare to the pro 3's? looking to retain some decent mid-range torque as well as the car will be used for some circuit racing also
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you dont need the knife edged crank... i would consider taking some weight off the crank if i was you but its probably not necessary to have it knife edged.
That being said, can you really assign a minimum compression required? At some point, a smaller cam will produce a better powerband, but it isn't a clear-cut defining line. Plenty other variables other than compression go into this, including valve size, efficiency of the cylinder head, induction setup and exhaust manifold.
While increasing compression will typically result in some power gain to a point, it is most often used to support large cams on a smaller displacement motor. Generally speaking, you can run less compression on a larger motor and still make as much or more power on the same set of cams, than you could running the same cams at higher compression on a smaller displacement motor. Compression is another way to increase airflow through an engine but so is head porting, valve size, intake configuration and exhaust as 92TypeR has said.
Sure, this is a true statement. The more compresssion the more potential the engine has to make more power.
That being said, can you really assign a minimum compression required? At some point, a smaller cam will produce a better powerband, but it isn't a clear-cut defining line. Plenty other variables other than compression go into this, including valve size, efficiency of the cylinder head, induction setup and exhaust manifold.
That being said, can you really assign a minimum compression required? At some point, a smaller cam will produce a better powerband, but it isn't a clear-cut defining line. Plenty other variables other than compression go into this, including valve size, efficiency of the cylinder head, induction setup and exhaust manifold.
If that's true, then how can it be true to set a single compression ratio for any cam to run on? There's a big difference in airflow between a 1.8 running 12:1 on a set of cams and a 2+L running the same compression on the same cams. I always get a kick out of people that blindly say, "oh as long as you run over 12:1 on those cams, you're good!" ....really...12:1 on any motor huh? any less than that and they won't work? How about 12:1 on a b16a? see how well you do with those cams in there....
to the OP. i ran a 85x89 setup in my eg hatch at around 2200lbs.
went 12.009@113 before an omnipower valve broke off.
knifedged crank, 13.7:1 comp. small port cyl head with itbs(280cfm head). zex pro race cams. tri-y header, light flywheel, etc on 23" slicks
engine made 205/156 on a mustang dyno with a victorX and 68Tb. never dynoed with the TWMs.
so with the pro series cams you should pick up a little more. and you should be able to get in the 11's with some good chassis prep.
went 12.009@113 before an omnipower valve broke off.
knifedged crank, 13.7:1 comp. small port cyl head with itbs(280cfm head). zex pro race cams. tri-y header, light flywheel, etc on 23" slicks
engine made 205/156 on a mustang dyno with a victorX and 68Tb. never dynoed with the TWMs.
so with the pro series cams you should pick up a little more. and you should be able to get in the 11's with some good chassis prep.
Hello,
I am setting myself a challenge to get a n/a b series into the 11's; this is very rare in the uk to do but it's a personal goal for me to do it. I have an eg6 chassis, which is already gutted of its interior circa 2204 ibs (still more to remove/reduce weight on). I am wanting to stay b series to in-keep with the car. This was my build idea:-
b18 block, darton mids sleeves and bored to 85mm
full rotating mass lightened/balanced with knifeedged crank
remove power steering- n1 pulley
lighten flywheel
all new gaskets
uprated oil pump
acl tri-metal bearings
Skunk 2 pro 3 cams, ti springs and retainers
skunk flat face valves
b16 head
5 angle valve job
mild portwork
edelbrook victor-x intake mani
throttle body (70mm??)
high comp pistons (unsure of what compression ratio I will need to run pro 3 cams?)
4.4 transmission
mapped on hondata s300
decent header (ideas?)
with weight down to around 2000 ibs, is it likely I will get anywhere near 11's on mickey thompsons?
I am setting myself a challenge to get a n/a b series into the 11's; this is very rare in the uk to do but it's a personal goal for me to do it. I have an eg6 chassis, which is already gutted of its interior circa 2204 ibs (still more to remove/reduce weight on). I am wanting to stay b series to in-keep with the car. This was my build idea:-
b18 block, darton mids sleeves and bored to 85mm
full rotating mass lightened/balanced with knifeedged crank
remove power steering- n1 pulley
lighten flywheel
all new gaskets
uprated oil pump
acl tri-metal bearings
Skunk 2 pro 3 cams, ti springs and retainers
skunk flat face valves
b16 head
5 angle valve job
mild portwork
edelbrook victor-x intake mani
throttle body (70mm??)
high comp pistons (unsure of what compression ratio I will need to run pro 3 cams?)
4.4 transmission
mapped on hondata s300
decent header (ideas?)
with weight down to around 2000 ibs, is it likely I will get anywhere near 11's on mickey thompsons?
lohatch- that's a sick time considering the weight and suchlike 
sergek- I have though about h22 but in my mind, I want to keep with the b series as the engine came stock with b16a, I would really like to keep it b and there's the stealth side where people wonder what the hell is done to the engine if it looks fairly stock but goes really well, h series would be more obvious that it is going to be fast, plus I would want a h to b kit if I get the h series and that is quite alot of outlay,

sergek- I have though about h22 but in my mind, I want to keep with the b series as the engine came stock with b16a, I would really like to keep it b and there's the stealth side where people wonder what the hell is done to the engine if it looks fairly stock but goes really well, h series would be more obvious that it is going to be fast, plus I would want a h to b kit if I get the h series and that is quite alot of outlay,
If that's true, then how can it be true to set a single compression ratio for any cam to run on? There's a big difference in airflow between a 1.8 running 12:1 on a set of cams and a 2+L running the same compression on the same cams. I always get a kick out of people that blindly say, "oh as long as you run over 12:1 on those cams, you're good!" ....really...12:1 on any motor huh? any less than that and they won't work? How about 12:1 on a b16a? see how well you do with those cams in there....
It might perform better using less compression than the H22 at 12:1 (lets say 11.5:1) if it is using better supporting mods like a professionally ported head, custom header and well matched intake pipe, manifold and exhaust.
92TypeR wasn't trying to suggest there is a single minimum number you can run on every engine, he meant it would vary by the engine and it's unique supporting mods.
92TypeR wasn't trying to suggest there is a single minimum number you can run on every engine, he meant it would vary by the engine and it's unique supporting mods.
right, and i do agree with what he was saying. i think my first response to what he said may have sounded like i did not agree with what he was saying.
lohatch- that's a sick time considering the weight and suchlike 
sergek- I have though about h22 but in my mind, I want to keep with the b series as the engine came stock with b16a, I would really like to keep it b and there's the stealth side where people wonder what the hell is done to the engine if it looks fairly stock but goes really well, h series would be more obvious that it is going to be fast, plus I would want a h to b kit if I get the h series and that is quite alot of outlay,

sergek- I have though about h22 but in my mind, I want to keep with the b series as the engine came stock with b16a, I would really like to keep it b and there's the stealth side where people wonder what the hell is done to the engine if it looks fairly stock but goes really well, h series would be more obvious that it is going to be fast, plus I would want a h to b kit if I get the h series and that is quite alot of outlay,
H2B adapter is only $750
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