ok so im tossing up the idea of doing a "plain jane" ls/vtec and was looking for some suggestion/comments.

setup would consist of:

completely stock gsr head
GE lsv kit
arp headstuds

completely stock b18b1 block
b16/gsr water pump
b16/gsr oil pump
b16/gsr t-belt

ITR replica header
2.5 exhaust w/ no cat
3in intake w/ velocity stack

all this and tuned on crome pro



how does this sound for a semi "built" DD setup!?!?!?!?

lets hear some feedback!

 

Please upgrade your rod bolts with some ARP's and you might wanna also upgrade to some B16 PR3 pistons just in case you ever install some larger cams so you have the CR to back them up, as well as have some adequate valve to piston clearance.

 

i will with my other block......im mainly interested to see what kind of power this will make with a stock block and stock head!.....i will only be reving the car to about 7-7.5k

 

the rod bolts are fine if your going to be rev'n to only that much.

should feel like a gsr more or less.

 

ummmm...no. u def need to upgrade to arp rodbolts for any ls vtec. and 7500 rpm is quite high for lsv. mine was built with itr pistons amd s2 pro2 cams and i mad max power at about 7800 so no need to rev much higher.power with the setup u mention will be around 150whp im guessing. but the powerband will be very lofty.

 

im reving my stock lsv with gsr head and sk2 intakemani to 8-85 stock rod bolts and a hytech rep header runs hard

 

max power at 7800 with itr pistons and pro2 cams????????? should be runnin to 9k with that and still have plenty of power till then

 

When people say to upgrade internals, it's not because it's not physically possible to run the motor at higher rpm. It's because you run into rod stretch, with the pistons coming in contact with the valves/head in extreme cases. The bearings may not hold up to it seeing as they where not meant to turn that high. As far as the head is concerned, you can run into valve float. The water/oil pump may not work as well at those RPM's unless you swap one that is made for it. Etc, etc, etc.

 

My wifes '95 coupe has exactly what you're doing. Bone stock b1 bottom end(fresh re-build-all oem), bone stock c1 head (as we found it), it does have a blox itr replica intake manifold, and knock off jun header($130) haha, 2.5 inch skunk2 exhaust, and a stock gsr ecu map(vtec is too high at 6k by the way) Also has a gsr trans...stock

It put down 163whp-125trq (rev it to 8-8300 rpm's)
It does lose a little power right before vtec and should probably be moved down to 5k, but it is a stock ecu so... It does work for what it is and you can def feel the tourqe diffrence. She went 14.3 at 97mph with the stock suspension and no lsd. It has about 70k on it now and doesn't smoke a lick! Good luck with the build bro, ls-v is the way to go built or stock...

 

subscribed. OP plz keep us posted on your progress?

 

stop being wrong please.

stock rod bolts = stock LS rev limit = 7500 if my memory serves me. so why in the world would you have to keep it lower than the limit the parts were designed for?

and apparently you did something wrong with your motor. those cams will make power to 10k if needed when setup correctly.

 

Subscribed.

What kind of machining do you need to do to top/bottom for the build?

 

im some what of the same build but im using a b20z botom end with a pnp gsr head and type r cams and i will be reving to 8k and yes im using arp rod bolts for a extra 50 bucks why wouldnt you if you are gonna rebuild the bottom end anyway only issue im concerned with is if i have to notch the pistons although i have heard from many reputable builders that as long as you dont use anything more agressive then type r cams it should be ok but i may notch the reliefs anyway