got the engine installed and it fired up first try. two problems..

-temp gauge keeps "vibrating", moving up and down very quickly. moving ALL the way up when i have the car in ACC position. anyways this is no biggie whatever.

-it idles at about 700-1000rpm which is cool, but when i start to give it a little gas, it starts to fluctuate as if im tapping the gas pedal, even tho im holding it down. if i floor it then it starts to act normal but goes back to bouncy after i let it idle again.

but i still cant drive the car, i need new lower ball joint and a tie rod end balljoint on the driverside. i cant get the nuts on there!! i put a strong nail in place of the lower balljoint nut, thru the cotter pin hole just so i could push it...anyways somehow during that process the driverside axle separated at the tranny side, in the boot.

anyways thats the story, motor sounds frickin awesome has a higher pitch rev than the a6 and it gets in the redline but wants to keep going.

 

let me give a little more info... this motor actually came from a 93 something, so everything was obd1. this is what i used from my old a6 motor and matched with with the zc

-dizzy
-plugs/wires
-fuel rail/injectors
-IM with sensors
-o2 sensor

now this is the stuff i had to "modify" in order to get working.

-2 sets or connectors on the back of block next to oil pan, i cant find a pic. on the ZC block, there was only a single 1 prong connector. on my a6 block, i had two connectors, 1 prong and a 2 prong. i took the 2 prong connector off of the a6 and put it onto the ZC.

-thermo stat housing was switched from the a6 to the ZC, the ZC had an electrical connector on the thermo housing which im assuming is the water temp sensor. i have a feeling the 2 prong connector on the a6 block was the water temp sensor, please correct me if im wrong.

also in the process of wiring i changed dizzy plugs(new dizzy had nice obd1 plugs, mine were all messed up). i matched up the wires but for some reason there are 2 WHITE WIRES coming out of the engine harness, on the dizzy plug side there is 1 white wire and a yellow/black wire. i matched these up and the car started just fine, i thought i wired incorrectly so i switched the two white wires and then it wouldnt fire at all.

so i dont think my problem is the dizzy but please give me a hand im lost.

in the pic you can see the white wire and the yellow/black. on the obd0 dizzy. there is 2 whites and NOT a yellow/black. my harness was made to MPFI so i have all 7 dizzy plugs and the white ones are the only ones that dont match correctly.

 

the A6 has the cooling fan switch on the back of the block next to the oil filter (big round black boot with 2 wires, black and yellow/green) - the OBD1 engine has the cooling fan switch on the thermostat housing - you can use either

OBD0 - OBD1 distributor wire colors

 

aha! i thought one of the whites looked thicker...ok well im glad i wired it correctly! but yea something is still jacked regarding the temp gauge. like you said, the two prong conenctor on the back of the block is the fan switch. what if i confused the two wires on that plug, would like matter or no?

 

oh wait i misread some of that, that diagram shows which wire goes to the obd1 dizzy? well **** alright thats probably my problem right there. i just color matched everything.

EDIT: IM ONLY USING THE OBD1 PLUG, THE DIZZY IS STILL OBD0.

 

doesn't matter - it is just a switch in the ground wire

 

What ECU?
You can't mix OBD1 and OBD0 ECU and dizzy.

It doesn't matter if you flip the wires fro the fan switch.

 

if using the OBD0 dizzy, match all of the wire colors and thin white goes to white and thick white goes to yellow/green (this is igniter wire)

 

alright yea thats what i did, i guess i got lucky and matched the obd1 plug on the dizzy side as well as the harness side first try!

sidenote, can i use the obd1 dizzy? my ecu and injectors are all obd0 tho...

 

can't use OBD1 dizzy with OBD0 ECU

 

my dizzy has to be responsible for my weird accelerating problem, it revs normal if i give it open throttle but slowly accelerating is when it revs, stops, revs, stops. basically the feeling when ur running out of gas but it snaps out of it at a higher rpm.

if it was a sensor/fuel injector problem i would have felt it on my a6, since ALL electrical parts came from that motor. shame i cant use my zc IM, the runners seem larger and it is just overall bigger. some hose inlets are in different locations and the iacv is different...but hey IF i can use this, just re-routing some hoses and connectors, i'll gladly do it i just dont know if i can.

 

ok, well i've never had problems with this dizzy on the a6!

 

bump

 

I would probably swap you obd0 intake manifold and sensors over if you are having idle and some throttle issues....that will should solve that.

Temp....which sensor did you end up using? Did you use the one off the back of the block, if you installed it there, or did you use the newer position one in the thermostate housing?

 

im using my a6 obd0 IM with all sensors attached, MAP on the firewall...the zc IM is obd1 and has broken sensors on it. i just want the zc IM, ill use my a6 sensors.

as for the water temp sensor, i removed the 2-prong connector from the a6 and placed in in the zc (there was a big bolt blocking the inlet for the sensor). everything matched up perfectly. i removed the thermo housing (with temp sensor) from the zc and used my a6 thermo housing (no connector).

the thermo housing ground is good, i think i may the the two wires on the 2-prong backwards or somethin.

 

bump

 

did you figure it out yet...!!!

 

**** no, BUT i was outside revving the car and i noticed the valve just next to the throttle body. there is a nipple ON the section of the TB that has the little manual pulley to rev the motor. there is a ltitle thing that fluctuates and moves whenever i rev it, it moved back and forth and when it starts bogging that thing is moving. i dont know what it is.

i've unplugged some vac lines just to experiment but nothing solves the fluctuating revving problem. its a vac problem tho, not dizzy. that little arm thingy next to the manual reving thing moves around when the car starts bogging.

 

so are you going obd-1 now...!!!

 

naa, using all my obd0 sensors including dizzy and fuel injectors so im obd0 still. car fires up first try even this morning cold as **** on the first crank. no weird idle or anything.

but i still have the weird acceleration problem, here is a video on it.

http://s280.photobucket.com/albums/k...7-06-06-42.flv

 

turns out the part im talking about is called the dashpot diaphram, check the pics to see the vac lines. its purpose is to control the TB to "smooth" out the idle, basically letting NOT letting the TB slam shut if you lift your foot off the gas quickly. Mine seems to be malfunctioning since while accelerating, its gently moving the TB around. even when i remove the vac line 6, its still moving the TB erratically. i think im gonna have to use the TB on my zc IM and see if that fixed the problem.

 

Disconnect the dashpot and see if it's holding the vacuum. Maybe it's torn and leaking causing your fault.

 

did that, the dashpot fluctuates eratically when there is NO line attached to it. so i dont know if the solenoid is broken, hose clogged or the diaphram it self went faulty!

i do know what when i dropped in the new motor, i hit the firewall once or twice. could have banged the dashpot solenoid thing.

i have my zc TB but i didnt see a dashpot on it! and i think the vac line nipples are different.