Need help...

Ran fine when I parked it, came out the next morning, would not fire. I'll list the things that I've checked/replaced kindof in order.

Replaced plugs, wires, cap and rotor (needed it badly)
Held all plugs on ground while cranking, got spark.
checked timing belt, just fine. Although I didn't put the light on it, it doesn't appear that it jumped time.
Plugs are wet after cranking.
Took fuel sample from fuel rail, no water or junk.
All fuses are good.
Put the multimeter on main relay, fine. it also clicks with the fuel pump when key is at II.
Did not guage cyl. pressure but it seemed very strong.
put a light on injectors and they get juice. Also ohm out to spec.
Bought a new coil and icm but since I have spark with the old stuff, I will likely return them.
In looking over this car, I realized that I was about 1.5 quarts low on oil.
I did not have a CEL or any other probelm the night that I parked it.

Does anyone have any other item that I should check?

Thanks for any help.

 

Sounds like you've been pretty thorough so far. I don't understand why it wouldn't run. If you have fuel, and have spark, (and air) that's it. It should at least try to run.
Checked your timing yet? Perhaps it skipped a tooth when you went to start it the next day.

 

I'll put a light on it tomorrow...

 

does your CEL stay on solid after the initial fuel pump prime, before you try to crank the engine over? Or does it come on briefly, and then go off like normal?

 

normal.

 

does the starter works it sounds like some thing similar tha happen to me on my civic what i did is i check the starter signal and it wasent geting any so i run a new starting signal siwtch first try puting a bridge on the starter look on it and there is 3 wires #1 is ground #2 is + and #3 is the signal tha goes to the key starting switch try doing the bridge whit the signal and + just give it hit it may work

 

It cranks fine, sparks and there is fuel getting into the cylinder.

 

What color is spark at the plugs? It should be bright white.

If spark is bright white at all four plugs, then check the mechanical timing (see diagram) to see whether the timing belt slipped.

If the mechanical timing is fine, then compression test the cylinders.

 

Update

This is surely one for the experts...

Checked mechanical TDC, all lines line up and rotor cap is in the neighborhood.

Spark is nice.

Compression tested all cyle: 1-130, 2-around 100 3-90 4-120

Does anyone know what the chances are of the ICM being bad but still getting spark?

Any other ideas would be appreciated greatly.

I'm one day away from towing to stealership...

 

Cylinders 2 and 3 have low compression. The head gasket may be blown. Do a cylinder leak down test.

 

Thanks, what's cylinder leakdown test?

Are 2 & 3 terrible readings? Would this prevent starting? Running fine then no start in the morning.

As I said earlier, the oil was a little low, but no high temp, could there have been sufficient heat to warp the head?

 

i think 130 may be the minimum compression for it to start try dropping a tablespoon of 10w 30 in the cylinder and do the compression test again to see if its the rings

 

Two of the cylinders are 20-30% lower compression that the other two. This imbalance of compression could definitely cause a no-start problem.

Why was the engine oil 1.5 quarts low? For how long? Was blue smoke coming from the exhaust?

Leak down test

 

no smoke that I noticed and the thing has never burned a drop of oil...until now.

The oil was low because I am and a$$hole.

I'll try ther leakdown test.

 

One other bit I didn't add was that there was a little oil gathering outside of the plugs, inside the tubes, just enougt to wet the threads as I pulled the plugs out.

I looked at the water (no all of it) but it still look good and green.

 

a leak down test is very easy... basically you are applying compressed air to the cylinder at tdc of the power stroke (to ensure the valves are closed) and then checking various portions of engine for the sound of leaking air... so open your throttle body (checks intake valves) remove your exhaust manifold or downpipe and listen, exhaust valves, take off your rad cap and check for bubbles, headgasket, and open your oil cap and listen. headgasket oil control section, or rings............

maximum allowable difference in readings is 10% for Honda to consider the motor to still be "good"

I'd find out where it's leaking and go from there.......

-Lee

 

Update

Bad news, I did the oil in the cyl. compression test and got over 150 in 1, 2, and 4. 3 was still at 90.

So I'm guessing that's bad rings correct? Any idea what could have happened in that short of time where it went from never burning a drop to smoking up all the oil and won't start the next morning

Thanks for all the help on this one.

Any ideas on how much I could get for the old girl parting it out etc.? Wheres the market for these cars?

MIke

 

possible broken ring land maybe? just a thought i have no idea, definately a tricky one.