Just wanted to share my dyno results with you all. Let me know if the power is within standards, based on the parts I've selected. I might of made more power if I tuned with open header and added a velocity stack. It's cool though, because I wanted to tune it based on how I'm going to be driving it most of the time...daily. All inputs appreciated. Thanks guys.

Final Output: 227whp & 150wtq

P.S. Can anyone explain why the power drops off between 6,000rpm - 6,500rpm? I was hoping that the power would just keep climbing. Could it be the actual cams causing this?






You could hear how restrictive the stock itr exhaust is in this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JE_0chsshqs

 

What header are you using?

 

Where do you have VTEC set at?

 

I'm running the Blox Racing Max-Flo Header. Thanks.

I'm not even sure where VTEC is set at to be honest. lol.

 

Definitely need to know this

 

Could that be the reason why my power drops off between 6,000 - 6,500rpm?

 

Absolutely. If your tuner set VTEC at around ~6500rpm as one could argue the graph indicates, then it appears a more ideal point would be around 5900-6000rpm.

 

Good power for stock ITR exhaust.

If you are looking to pick up some more power, I would try some Pro2's and a better header.

That dip is most likely due to the header.

 

Good recommendations. Will changing the VTEC point from say 6500 back down to 5900 affect the overall tune? I might consider trying the Pro2's and getting a higher quality header such as SMSP or SSR. Thanks.

 

Assuming that is where VTEC is, yes it would. You'd need to tune A/F and timing to acheive a smooth graph from 6000-6500. I'm not expert enough to say its for sure at ~6500 though. 92typer could probably tell with 99% certainty

 

Lets say for example that this is the case in where the VTEC point is set too high. If I were to have my tuner lower the VTEC point and retune the air/fuel ratio in that portion of the map, will the engine pick up more power, as well as smoothen out?

 

Peak power wouldn't change, just that portion of RPM range would improve and be more linear

 

Is it something worth even bothering with, or should I just run it as is? If it's worth an extra 5hp in the midrange then I will probably retune it.

 

Nice job.

You should look into 3" exhaust.

 

Thanks man. I'm going to have fun with it for a minute. The next upgrades I have in mind are:

> Edelbrock Victor X Intake Manifold (cut opened & ported)
> SMSP or SSR Custom Header w/ 3" Collector
> 3" Test Pipe
> 3" Mandrel Bent Exhaust System
> Skunk2 Pro2 Cams (dialed-in)

Maybe I'll have a chance of hitting 235+ whp after these additions.

 

You will definitely be over 235 whp with those mods.

I make 225 whp out of a 1.8L.

 

As mentioned, we need more information to give you a definitive answer. At the very least, the vtec activation point and your A/F graph would also be very helpful.

 

I had the same problem with a dip like that with my cams. s2 stage 3's. we tried moving vtec around and jeff at rrev smoothed it out a bunch but he said it was due to a big difference in the lobe sizes between vtec and primarys.

good numbers though.

 

Would unbolting the entire exhaust system at the racetrack drastically affect the air/fuel mixture (overall tune) to unsafe levels of operation? I plan on throwing some slicks on and unbolting the exhaust to see what it runs. Any ideas?

 

+1 That's what I was thinking when I was looking @ your dyno.

 

nice numbers! velocity stack intake will definitely help too

 

Hey,
I saw a bunch of people here talking about moving the Vtec point around to try to eliminate that hp dip.
Here's the "right" way to tune a Vtec engine. (hopefully your tuner knew this!)
Using Hondata:
1. disable the high cam
2. tune the low cam completely as well as possible to maximize the most power across the widest rpm range by tweaking AFR and ignition and/or cam timing
3. disable the low cam
4. tune the high cam completely as well as possible to maximize the most power across the widest rpm range by tweaking AFR and ignition and/or cam timing
5. overlap the torque curves from the low cam and the high cam
6. set the Vtec point at the rpm point where the two cams' torque curves cross

This should be the ideal Vtec point for your engine setup. If the above steps were done properly and you still have a dip, then look at other issues like the header, exhaust, etc.

Hope this helps everyone out there.
Good luck!

 

I like all the additions. You might want to add one more. BPI V-Stack on the end of your ITR CAI.
Honestly with a new header and 3" exhaust I think you will break 230.
Then do the Intake Manifold and V-Stack 235+.
Then last the cams 245+.

What Skunk Manifold, Pro or the old one?

 

My tuner said that the Blox Type C cams are the ones causing that ugly dip. Something about the profile and design that causes it to dip. I'm running the Pro-Series manifold.

 

i wish my car was putting down that kind of power