H2B EK4 . 250whp "on a budget"
Hy there guys.
Im not an H-series guy, but I have a new project for now and its about a Streetable 250whp motor. I wont cry if I get arround 220, or 230, but i've set 250 as a high goal, just to make things funnier.
Now. I dont have much experience with H's, as there are only a real few of them here in brazil. BUT, I will be going to US next january to stay some time researching and getting parts for my hatchback.
Now. I know its sleeves are FRM, and if i want to go forged, the only option is to get Mahle pistons. BUT, they seem to have them only up to 11.5:1 CR, but I'd like to go higher, maybe 13:1 ou a bit more, as it will run E85. Do Mahle fabricate custom "gold series pistons?"
Now, considering a 5k dollar limit, including the QSD H2B, Im not considering getting a full headwork, just a nice valvejob and port cleaning.
The plan is to run on stock stroke, .5mm OS pistons, and Skunk2 pro valvetrain with some stock sized Steel valves just to avoid issues beacause of the high pressure springs
Now, considering the use of Pro1's or Pro2's, is it a must to go with a forged setup? How high on the rev STD rods can handle on this motors? Is 11:1 type S pistons to little on compression for a Pro series camshaft?
would a ported stock mani be OK for such setup?
now, will the pro-series cams produce too much wear on the valvetrain for a street use?
What header would be suitable for this kinda power? Not any fancy header, but a simple one that can be OK for me.
Do you guys have any recomendations for me?
Of course Ill include all items, like ARPs, new oil/water pump, seals, gaskets, bearings, bla bla...
Thanks in advance guys
Im not an H-series guy, but I have a new project for now and its about a Streetable 250whp motor. I wont cry if I get arround 220, or 230, but i've set 250 as a high goal, just to make things funnier.
Now. I dont have much experience with H's, as there are only a real few of them here in brazil. BUT, I will be going to US next january to stay some time researching and getting parts for my hatchback.
Now. I know its sleeves are FRM, and if i want to go forged, the only option is to get Mahle pistons. BUT, they seem to have them only up to 11.5:1 CR, but I'd like to go higher, maybe 13:1 ou a bit more, as it will run E85. Do Mahle fabricate custom "gold series pistons?"
Now, considering a 5k dollar limit, including the QSD H2B, Im not considering getting a full headwork, just a nice valvejob and port cleaning.
The plan is to run on stock stroke, .5mm OS pistons, and Skunk2 pro valvetrain with some stock sized Steel valves just to avoid issues beacause of the high pressure springs
Now, considering the use of Pro1's or Pro2's, is it a must to go with a forged setup? How high on the rev STD rods can handle on this motors? Is 11:1 type S pistons to little on compression for a Pro series camshaft?
would a ported stock mani be OK for such setup?
now, will the pro-series cams produce too much wear on the valvetrain for a street use?
What header would be suitable for this kinda power? Not any fancy header, but a simple one that can be OK for me.
Do you guys have any recomendations for me?
Of course Ill include all items, like ARPs, new oil/water pump, seals, gaskets, bearings, bla bla...
Thanks in advance guys
Have you considered doing a "G" series build? Think it would be cheaper and not have to fool with the frm liners. By ported manifold you meant the intake right? If so id look at the d-h racing intake looks pretty good think they claim 25hp gain.
jdm h22 stock bottom end (check compression make sure it's strong)
port and polish headwork/valvejob from someone reputable.
skunk pro 1's cams/springs/retainers/gears & flatface valves.
decently good header--better header.
should be 230-250 whp fairly easy. pending what type of dyno.
this recipe has been done quite a few times and is proven
i made 237 whp and 172 wtq on a low reading dyno dynamics. had a .25 over mahle 11:5 piston tho...stock head casting no portwork.
port and polish headwork/valvejob from someone reputable.
skunk pro 1's cams/springs/retainers/gears & flatface valves.
decently good header--better header.
should be 230-250 whp fairly easy. pending what type of dyno.
this recipe has been done quite a few times and is proven
i made 237 whp and 172 wtq on a low reading dyno dynamics. had a .25 over mahle 11:5 piston tho...stock head casting no portwork.
I will be in trouble even if I use cast pistons, or the Mahle ones wich are made to be used with the FRM's?
In case i consider to build a F23/h22 hybrid, how bad is to find one of those blocks in florida?
Also, I see lots of people talking on Pro1's, but what about the Pro2's? Are they an overkill for a street setup?
thanks again guys
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im in fl just bought a f23 for 100 bucks 
pro1s are just a good all around cam good starting point for na & can be used if ever go to f/i .pro 2s would make roughly 10 whp everywhere in the rpm range with the right setup if staying all motor it would be a good choise & make sure you know how to or someone close to you can do p2v & v2v clearnces.
oh & the guy asked about dh lets just say hes a rip off ull lucky to get your parts & the parts you do get suck! research

pro1s are just a good all around cam good starting point for na & can be used if ever go to f/i .pro 2s would make roughly 10 whp everywhere in the rpm range with the right setup if staying all motor it would be a good choise & make sure you know how to or someone close to you can do p2v & v2v clearnces.
oh & the guy asked about dh lets just say hes a rip off ull lucky to get your parts & the parts you do get suck! research
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