Guys,
I went Again to the dyno today (it is a Dynojet)
after tuning with VAFC2 it pulled 144whp. same numbers last time.


my setup again is B16a2 with just a hytech replica, 2.25 exhaust with 3 chambers.
k&n drop in filter with no resonator.

I was thinkink on, change exhaust line for 2.5 in the muffler shop (at least last parts that has lot of curves and put an N1 tipe muffler cause the muffler I´ve got is too big, is it a good Idea?

taking away resonator didn´t help,
I was thinking in getting a AEM short ram or Ebay 2pcs CAI so I can choose between CAI or Short Ram.

any suggestions?
about exhaust? the intake?

are 144whp ok for my setup?

 

Stock b16a2 has about 134whp, so, bassicly you got +10whp with intake, exhaust, header, not so bad, could be more though, but with good tune I thnik you could gain a bit more IMO

 

I am not happy actually, I think car was working better before the tuner modify the VAFC, when I put it it was running way too better than how it is running now,

he put all the way A/F aprox 12.2

I will rent a Dyno for an hour using my bare hands to tune, I think it is too rich from low end..

yesterday I bough AEM tru power pulleys for my car, I will go with this same setup in the VAFC to check how did the tuner worked and do modifications with the VAFC as I want

 

why 12.2? If your N/A go to 13 or so. what fuel? and dont use a crank pulley from AEM, just the AC and PS. Also i had an ebay 2pc cold air, when i switched it to a short ram intake i lost .3 at the drag strip. Cold Airs make more power than short rams

 

get a b20 block already

 

Here in my country there are no b20 neither b18, just b16. I only bought alternator and p/s pulley from AEM hope to get 1 or 2 whp more from there.

so you strongly suggest CAI? cause here puddles are a big issue, streets are not ok.

here fuel is sold as 98octane but I don´t think that it is more than 95.

and what about exhaust, I have 2.25 with 2 resonators, one of about 10 inches, the second about 15 inches and the last one about 20 inches, is it too much? should I get beneficts of changing to 2.5 piping with taking away the last muffler of 20 inches and putting a N1 muffler of 2.5?

ignition timming is on 16º do you suggest advance a little more?

 

tuned your car already stop using this vafc ****.

 

+1

 

your AFR is entirely too rich
you should be 12.9 ~13.3 Afr

 

!!! sell vafc and you'll have some money for tunin it

 

I will probably sell VAFC in my country and get a p28 (in Argentina vafc are expensive) and I paid it 100 bucks in the USA.

what about getting an ebay CAI and put an k&n filter on it? or I shoud spend 200 for a real AEM?

 

I think, dont waste your money on CAI now, get money - tune it, IMO CAI is simply bolt on, you need to get tuned, and then just buy CAI and put it on

 

x2 on that haha its a b16 dude what did you think you were gonna get man they are gutless

 

Read on :

 

my intend is not so high, I just want to get 150/155whp.

with the CAI or SRI will it get a bit more lean? in order not to get dyno tune again until I get cams and a p28?

will I get 5hp or more with the CAI or SRI? cause now with OEM filter hose but just a drop in K&N no resonator is rich, that is why I think it would get lean alone by getting a CAI or SRI? am I right? and that way I will use the extra fuel that AF mixture has, is that correct?

 

This is the PM I sent you on the 23rd to refresh your memory


"12.2 is too rich....lean it out to 13.5 or 13.0 if it likes it...12's are too rich

Shortys make more peak power and generally Hondas like short runners anyway

Icebox is good for a daily - keeps the filter clean and cool air around the filter pickup but generally guys who race use short rams (home made is the cheapest)

If your numbers are low and the mileage is high sometimes the B16s burn oil from the head into the combustion chamber (robs power) valve seals may be bad and hurting power.

A fresh head (seals/guides etc...) is a good way to make sure you get all your power. Plus the VTEC pads wear over time and can lower the actual duration/lift the motor is seeing under operation.

Sometimes on older motors with fresh stock cams and valvetrain you may see 5-10whp because the wear on the old stuff was so bad.

Look into getting a fresh head on the motor. You will rev higher, not burn oil and pickup quite a few hp with even CTR/00 spec ITR cams with aftermarket valve springs. New LMAs/Pads will be a must too while you are in there.

Fresh head, better cams, thin head gasket with a good tune should put you in the 160+ range for sure if not 170+.

I like fresh motors so thats what I would do"


Your exhaust is too small -- 2.5" inner diameter...not smaller OD stuff...straight pipe with non-fouler (switch to P20/P06 will be best) I said eCtune or Neptune...cheap and good software (eCtune is my vote)

Everyone is saying the same thing...it needs a real tune along with the options I gave you. I have seen USDM B16s over and over and they all run similar numbers...130-135 or so...with mods (dc header, small exhaust) Look at my sig for my Del Sol (EG2)...my EG with just 2.5" K teller header back on STOCK ECU/stock header 3" short ram made quite a bit more power with LESS mods.

Had I slapped a header, 2 layer gasket, cam gears and a tune I think 160's/low 170s would have been doable...maybe more...

There is no shortage of what you CAN do to make more power....the only thing at this point is what you WILL do. I would say tune...it will maximize what you already have...that exhaust would be next on my list as well as a home made 3" short ram...cheap and will make power.

Best of luck, at this point just decide if you want to put the work in and do it...its just a matter of spending the money or not now.

 

Iam not sure, correct if Iam wrong, but nor with the CAI/SRI you will get more air, with CAI you could get colder air, colder air has more oxygen molecules, so, its better for burning or smthng Iam not quite a specialis

 

I will go right now to muffler shop and change to 2.5 inch line,

valve seals are the rubber ones, right? I was planning on changing them

 

IMO, if you want to add parts, and then just tune it to pay once for tune, then just get all you need for your goals, and tune it

 

Whats the collector size on your header? 2.5" or 3"?

 

he has a hytech rep so 2.5 going into a 2.25 exhaust.

 

it is 2.5 and exhaust is 2.25, though I will change piping for 2.5 and the last muffler that is 2.25 inlet and is 22 inches long I will change it for an N1 muffler 2.5 inlet so that way it will be less restrictive.

will get CAI or SRI and then tune and try to get power with lean AF about 13 as you all suggest me.

next week AEM tru power alternator and P/S will arrive so I hope with all that get to 150/155whp

 

make sure you do a tune up if you havent cap, rotor, plugs and plug wires if you haven't already done so.

 

haha your cars all stock with some knock off header and exhaust and stock intake. you have to actually do something to make hp. the restriction is in your budget.

 

dude I dont understand why your complaining!

I have an 2000 model edm ek4 vti (b16a2) which is 160hp stock, and I have less then 67k km on it so around 42k miles so you can say its pretty fresh still.

this ride put down 137whp on a dynojet fully stock,we then added our mods to see if they do perform better with an cai adding 4whp (141whp total) a type-r header adding 2whp (143 whp total) a decat + skunk2 catback adding 5whp (148 whp), I gained 3whp off accell wires,ngk iridium plugs and a breather instead of a pcv valve that bumped everything to 151 whp and finally my tuner tuned the car close to 155whp.

conclusion is that it took me a header,decat,catback,cai,breather,better plugs & wires and a proper tune to get the power your asking for and that was out of a very very clean,low mileage car,I think your numbers are great for what you have put into it.