Bouncing Idle IACV, FITV?!?!?
Hey guys, i'm new to the honda scene ( had a 1995 eclipse awd turbo for last 5 years). My 1996 Accord with the f22 engine I believe, is having some idle problems...I'll explain:
Heats up to the right engine temp quite quick lately
Start up around 2000 rpms
Goes down, a bit, and i'll start to drive
Driving is fine, then i come to a start and put into neutral ( 5 speed)
Idle starts bouncing between 950 rpm and 1500 rpm
occasionally it will stop, but will start again, and when it doesn't do it, it will idle at like 1050 rpms, not 750.
It just started. I did remove the intake to paint it, and drove for about 5 minutes to get someone with No intake what so ever and the vaccum hoses disconnected. One day it randomly overheated for no reason, and check engine light has been on, did not get it read yet.
People have told me it could be FITV, IACV, or MAP sensor. If someone could give me an idea of what to do, and what to go about first, that would be great. Also, Can you tell me where the IACV and FITV are located on the car ( picture would be great). Thanks! of and theres a pic of the engine if you wanna circle and repost
Heats up to the right engine temp quite quick lately
Start up around 2000 rpms
Goes down, a bit, and i'll start to drive
Driving is fine, then i come to a start and put into neutral ( 5 speed)
Idle starts bouncing between 950 rpm and 1500 rpm
occasionally it will stop, but will start again, and when it doesn't do it, it will idle at like 1050 rpms, not 750.
It just started. I did remove the intake to paint it, and drove for about 5 minutes to get someone with No intake what so ever and the vaccum hoses disconnected. One day it randomly overheated for no reason, and check engine light has been on, did not get it read yet.
People have told me it could be FITV, IACV, or MAP sensor. If someone could give me an idea of what to do, and what to go about first, that would be great. Also, Can you tell me where the IACV and FITV are located on the car ( picture would be great). Thanks! of and theres a pic of the engine if you wanna circle and repost
Headgasket tends to get blown after a car overheats. Could also be a faulty thermostat too that can cause an engine to overheat. I would clean out the IACV and adjust the FITV to see if the problem still persist. Mine did something similar where it idles at 1.5K most of the time and it turns out to be a bad IACV.
Keep an eye out for some white smoke coming out from the muffler when you go to start it up cold such as mornings.
Keep an eye out for some white smoke coming out from the muffler when you go to start it up cold such as mornings.
Headgasket tends to get blown after a car overheats. Could also be a faulty thermostat too that can cause an engine to overheat. I would clean out the IACV and adjust the FITV to see if the problem still persist. Mine did something similar where it idles at 1.5K most of the time and it turns out to be a bad IACV.
Keep an eye out for some white smoke coming out from the muffler when you go to start it up cold such as mornings.
Keep an eye out for some white smoke coming out from the muffler when you go to start it up cold such as mornings.
It means coolant. So somehow coolant would get into the combustion chamber and burns right out the exhaust. This means that the headgasket might've gone bad. I've heard that a crack head can leak coolant into the combustion chamber but don't quote that on me though; its just what I've heard.
First things first, You should read the codes from the ECU. Use the self diagnostic procedure, aka the paper clip method, to retrieve the codes. Despite what some may say you can use the SCS short (paperclip) method to retrieve the OBD codes on the 96-97 Accords.
In my 96 the blue (service) connector is under the dash.
The OBD2 diagnostics port is behind the ashtray. You can still get the basic 1 & 2 digit error codes (Flashing CEL codes) from the OBD2 ECU using the service connector method.
Under the glove box, it is in a plastic connecting cover/bracket

pull it down from under the dash

and remove it from the cover/bracket.

This is the connection that you have to jump with a wire/paper clip. After you short the two connections turn your ignition to the on position (engine not running) and start counting the number of times the Check Engine Light (CEL) flashes.
If there are no diagnostic trouble codes stored, the CEL will not flash.
The pattern of flashes indicates a one or two digit numeric code.
The first digit of the code is represented by long flashes.
The second digit of the code is represented by short flashes.
For example,
4 long flashes followed by 5 short flashes = code 45.
1 long flash followed by a pause = code 10
9 quick flashes would be a code 9.
If there is more than one DTC stored, the CEL will display them in sequence,with a pause between them.
Example,
3 long, 4 short .....pause...... 4 long, 1 short......pause.... 2 long 2 short = Tells you that there are 3 codes stored. 34, 41 & 22
It will continue to repeat all the same codes for as long as you have the self diagnosis connector shorted. Record and double-check all codes displayed.
You will need to use the Honda OBD1 code list. It is posted here on H-T a number of times. You can find them using the search function.
In my 96 the blue (service) connector is under the dash.
The OBD2 diagnostics port is behind the ashtray. You can still get the basic 1 & 2 digit error codes (Flashing CEL codes) from the OBD2 ECU using the service connector method.
Under the glove box, it is in a plastic connecting cover/bracket

pull it down from under the dash

and remove it from the cover/bracket.

This is the connection that you have to jump with a wire/paper clip. After you short the two connections turn your ignition to the on position (engine not running) and start counting the number of times the Check Engine Light (CEL) flashes.
If there are no diagnostic trouble codes stored, the CEL will not flash.
The pattern of flashes indicates a one or two digit numeric code.
The first digit of the code is represented by long flashes.
The second digit of the code is represented by short flashes.
For example,
4 long flashes followed by 5 short flashes = code 45.
1 long flash followed by a pause = code 10
9 quick flashes would be a code 9.
If there is more than one DTC stored, the CEL will display them in sequence,with a pause between them.
Example,
3 long, 4 short .....pause...... 4 long, 1 short......pause.... 2 long 2 short = Tells you that there are 3 codes stored. 34, 41 & 22
It will continue to repeat all the same codes for as long as you have the self diagnosis connector shorted. Record and double-check all codes displayed.
You will need to use the Honda OBD1 code list. It is posted here on H-T a number of times. You can find them using the search function.
Last edited by GhostAccord; Nov 11, 2009 at 03:36 AM.
Here's what you do....i had the exact same problem. Remove the IACV which is located on the back of the intake manifold...it is held by 2 10mm bolts, 3 hoses, and a connector. Once you remove it, you spray it with brake cleaner or carburator cleaner....clean it very well with a toothbrush and remove all the gunk. Re-install IAVC. Start your car and let it idle....while its idling remove your radiator cap and turn the heat **** all the way to the hottest. This will remove any air bubbes in the coolant. last adjust your idle by loosening the idle screw near the throttle body. Hope this works, cause it did for me.
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