ok so i have sportmax 002 0 offset on my eg... the front fit fine for now i have a camber kit that i am installing saturday but the rear stick out about 3/4 of an inch.. while i was aware this would happen i dont know how to get the camber as negative as i will need it because most camber kits only go about -2 degrees and i dont think that will be enough. I am gonig to be rolling the fenders in a week or so front and back so that i can slam the car back down. but i couldnt find anything in search and i knwo most people dont want 0 offset and say it will eat up wheel bearings and its not practical...which it isnt but i think it looks sick and will look 10x better if i can camber the wheels in so they tuck perfectly any help would be appreciated thanks

 

if you can weld you can get a set for the back and shorten them. It wouldn't be hard at all if you or someone you know is decent at welding. That would be your only shot to get that much adjustable negative camber imo.

 

bad idea if its a dd youre gonna blow through tires

 

how so? having camber will not eat tires. it's a known fact that it's your toe setting on your car that eats your tires. that's why everyone suggest that when you drop your car (which cause's your wheels to toe out) to get an alignment.

 

Improper camber causes a new tire to ride on either the inner or outter edge. All of that corner's weight and tire wear is concentrated on that skinny edge instead of spread out across the whole intended contact patch. So, until the edge wears down to the point that the opposite edge is finally touching the ground (assuming the camber isn't so bad that it isn't possible), the tire wears more quickly. By that time, the first edge may have been bald for quite awhile.

If all else fails, you may be able to cut a hole between the two rear upper arm bushing bolts, slide the arm through the hole in the panel and bolt the bushing onto the other side. Just a thought.

 

True but when toe is off the tire is literally scrubbing sidways against the road. If toe is straight, the tire is still rolling straight so camber doesnt have as much of an effect on wear.

I woulnt relocate the arm like that, a few hard bumps and it could rip right out. Instead of the force being spread out into the body, its just pulling against those bolts in that idea.

OP I think they make some camber adjusting lower control arms that are a bit longer than stock. Those combined with an adjustable toe arm might give you the camber you want. Other alternative is to get properly sized wheels and tires.

 

properly sized wheels and tires= being like everyone else

 

will...do some research...if toe is out so will b camber...and both camber and toe will cause tire wear...for example...stock civic and you lower it 2 1/2 inches all around and you just did an alignment on toe only...camber is still going to b ther...which will wear the inside of your tires

 

Speaking from experience of running 15x8 +15's on my Ek. Camber Does NOT affect tire wear nearly as much as Toe does. You need to get your car properly aligned! My ej6 is slammed with front camber kit maxed out on + camber. When I got an alignment I was like -4.5 or -5 degrees of camber in the rear and my fronts were only -1.5. My rears are actually wearing less on the insides than the fronts despite almost 3x as much camber. Mind you this is before and after a couple tire rotations. One more time, ITS ALL ABOUT TOE!

 

what's the wheel width and size of your 002's? I have the 501's actually in 15x8 +15 with 195-50's all around with rear and front fenders cut, and with the stock UCA's in the rear. Just by lowering the car the negative camber in the back caused the tires to clear the fenders. I think you will need higher offset wheels like +15 or +20, 7.5 or 8" and you will be good.