EDIT: see post 10 for what happened

question to those familar with h22's

i have a .25 over 11.5:1 mahle piston in my h22 eagle rods. less than a thousand miles on the build.

has skunk: pro 1's cams/gears/retainers/springs
supertech valves flat face valve. head was even. no resurface or milling.


i understand the dome is huge on these pistons. but how much 'clearance' will i have?



tried to diagnose the car...cam gears were just moving slight with starting...timing marks put on both cam gears were even. top portion did not skip a tooth...thought it was just a alt belt. car used to be auto so didnt need the clutch to start. no noises. it has a manual tensioner conversion. the crank was not moving the belt. just kinda rocking back and forth. also turning the crank by hand it had good compression. it spun freely by hand.

engaged the clutch while trying to start the engine..just turned it slight. had hand on valvecover could feel it and hear a metalic noise from top end of the motor.

how much 'play' do i have? could just valves be bent or damaged or likely will pistons bottom end be damaged too. i know gotta pull the head..but any educated guesses?

any help is appreciated.

EDIT: see post 10 for what happened

 

It will be hard to tell. What you are trying to say is that the belt is skipping on the crankshaft?

 

Not real understanding what your saying but i broke a timing belt running 104 at the track bent 12 valves with no damage to the pistons so good luck just get the head off and start looking. In most instances that ive seen when people drop a valve it destroyes everything and there is metal all in the intake. I have actualy had ten timing belts break on stock motors that didnt bend a valve and the valve reliefs are realy big on them pistons so you may have got lucky all the way around again good luck.

 

yep belt is not moving. head will come off this week. see what kinda damage...or if this winters project is to go bigger.

 

Did only the alt belt break? I can't imagine any damage if that was it. Your last post implies the crank doesn't spin the belt, but you said in your first post you spun it by hand to check compression... ??

 

the alternator belt sheered in half...soon as i saw the alternator light come on...i shut the car down...pulled to the side of the road...towed the car...did *not* hear any metalic valve hitting the piston.

the engine spins freely by hand...take a wratchet and socket and to the crank and it spins freely shows engine has compression. is real hard to turn at Top dead center then spins freely til TDC again.

when trying to start with the clutch engaged. heard one loud tap 'metalic noise' the crank just moves slightly while the timing belt is not moving. and the car is not starting.

my guess...the part of the alternator belt that broke off... got lodged in...caused the crank to skip a timing.

 

But you're saying the crank can still spin freely by hand, but doesn't move when you try to start it. Sounds like a starter problem to me.

 

when the cams are lined up is the bottom end at TDC? also if the engine spins freely by hand it should turn freely with the starter. pull all the plugs and roll it through by hand. if everything seems cool do a compression test. if any of the valves are bent it will show up then. you can do a leakdown also and pinpoint the problem further. this your old setup or a new one?

 

What I mean is it sounds like the starter isn't grabbing. The crank doesn't move at all when he tries to turn it over is what I understand.

 

okay figgured one part of the problem.

flywheel bolts broke off in the crank and the flywheel. havent pulled the oil pan or checked for any top end damage. right now need the following items. crank/bearings/flywheel adapter bolts/flywheel adapter have to contact quartersport and see if they sell parts seperate.

i know many will say installation error. i was reading the torque specs from the quarter sport kit as my buddy who installed the engine torqued everything down. the setup prolly has 800 miles total since. and 30-40 pulls are dyno pulls. here's pics

flywheel adapter




block


flywheel

 

too much power ed
at least the rest of the engine should be ok. swap the crank and have at it again

 

was the engine ever spin balanced?

 

yes complete rotating assembly was balanced by the machine shop. everything was torqued to proper specs. very low miles since completetion. dont know why this happened..but it did. just hope getting the pieces from quartersport isn't a pain.

 

same just happened to me
i was able to use back out (screw extractor) to get them out. good luck

 

did you fix it? did you put a new crank in?

what was damaged? oil pump? anything else?

u have a quartersport h2b kit or evo? only thing i can see that caused mine to do that is the adapter for the flywheel. there's a blue hotspot on that adapter and it's all chewed up.

wonder how many other people this happened to. share some info.

 

bump up for non cell phone pics post #10

anyone else have a guess as to why this occured?

recap...rotating mass balanced. everything torqued to proper spec. the top half of the engine/pistons are fine. checking lower half early this week. the crank/oil pump/bearings

can anyone help?

 

i may be way off but in the pics it looks like the bolts would be shorter than desired once that spacer/adapter was put in between the flywheel and crank. maybe the bolts are just fallen down against the clutch disk in the pics though? how deep were the bolts going into the crankshaft? that may be something to look at.

 

I thought the same thing too, but then take into account that the bolt is broke and the other half is still in the crank, so I'm sure the bolt was long enough to begin with.

 

By the way the bolts look, it seems that they were the weak link. They simply just broke because they weren't strong enough, too long or both.

That's my guess.