right now i'm a marine in iraq and i have plans to order a k20a2 on hmotorsonline to put it in my EG6. but i don't know what else i need from outside of this list that the website list comes with the motor:

" - Motor
- Hydraulic Tranny
- ECU (PRB)
- Axles with Half Shaft
- Shift Cables and Shift Box
- Stock Motor Mounts *
- Alternator
- Starter
- Clutch
- Flywheel
- Intake Manifold
- Exhaust Manifold
- Fuel Rail
- Injectors
- Coils
- Engine Harness
- Comes With All Sensors Needed "


...other than little sh*t like oil, coolant, etc, what PARTS are needed for the swap?? i'd like to find out so i can start ordering and put it all together when i get home. it'll be a good build thread

thanks for the help! semper fi!

 

get the K24 instead if you're set on a K series. Rick Rabies has a K20 and my friend's brother has one, both have said they have no potential.

 

k24 cheaper

 

i want to build a k24/ k20 head honestly. but i don't know what parts i need. and online, only the longblock is available for the k24 so i would need to buy at least a tranny, ecu, axles....that's why i wrote this post. what do i need???

i wish there was a parts list for something like this. so i can see what someone else did exactly and go my own route with the details. anyone know of anyone build a k24/k20 and actually put what they used?

 

...everyone here just does B and D swaps. I know you need K Pro and special axles, special mounts, radiator has to be moved...

 

well i'm not everybody

don't know much about K Pro but i know the axles and mounts have to be bought (axles come with the complete swap online and mounts i'll buy as well). the radiator sits in the same spot i believe....maybe a new support for it on the bumper...?

there isn't a "honey-do" list for a k24/k20 build??

 

you can check k20a.org they have the full list there somewhere.
good luck
edit:http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20860 <the list
http://www.k20a.org/EGK1.pdf <how to

 

Add on the the price of the motor you need...

-Shifter box (either hybrid racing or karcepts, I say go with hybrid racing because you won't have to cut a massive hole near your shifter)
-new axles
-new radiator (recommended unless you want to tap out the spot welds and make custom mounts for your radiator)
-motor mounts obviously
-k-pro or Hondata ECU (stock RSX has a immobilizer built in, you need to get around that)
-New intake cuz stock rsx box obviously won't fit
-New A/C lines if you plan onkeeping it because stock ones wont fit he eg.
-new clutch (this is a MAYBE depending on what shape the stock one is in, but I normally find that stock ones are usually worn out)
-new lines for power steering (I think hybrid racing has a bolt on kit and lines that will work with the stock pump)
-K-tuned throttle cable and bracket (you can use the stock throttle cable, but I found that it's too long and it's going to have to wrap around the engine, better to juts get a replacement to get a cleaner engine bay)
-Wire conversion harness (highly recommended unless you REALLY want to splice all the wires and wire everything together, a MAJOR headache, not worth the time)
-Retro fitting fuel system (there's a bolt on solution from hybrid racing now I believe)
-A few other things I can't quite remember because I haven't done a K-Swap since a year ago, so I'm blurry on a few details.

All I can say about this swap is that it's a little more involved than a B-series and it definitely takes time. For example, if you use the hybrid racing mounts, which my friend did for his DC2.....we had to take the left motor bracket out by drilling the spot welds out and then refilling and repainting it. We also had to redo the mounts for the radiator too because at the time, there was no bolt on option. We also (at the time) cut a massive hole where his shifter was because the hybrid racing one wasn't available at the time.

There were other little things we came across that we had to deal with one at a time, I remember the thermostat wasn't hooking up properly, not sure what he did with that. He told me that recently all the headaches that we came across can easily be overcome with a lot of the bolt on parts that they have nowadays, so none of the chassis cutting and etc. I'm sure the list goes ON and ON because he ended up buying his K20a for $4500 + $3000 for everything to run and work properly at the end of the day. It cost more than most people think. I say you're better off with a highly built GSR/Type R (b18c). I helped him and was thoroughly exhausted at the end of the project. A lot of my friends have k-swaps now, but they definitely all agree that it ended costing them more in the end (to do it right) then they had originally thought.

...one last thing...thanks for serving our country

 

k20a.org has always been a good site to use. don't know why i forgot to also check there instead of just HT good resources above though. thanks noteurophreesh


wow. i knew it was going to be a pain in the *** and be a little more spendy than an average b or d series swap. but most of that will be included with the motor on hmotorsonline....ie shifter box, axles, wire conversion harness....and i would love to go Type R instead of K series but a friend had a Type R and i wasn't too pleased with it. thanks for the insight though. i'll have to take note of all these little trouble spots

and thanks for the support!


anyone have any other advice/guidance on their own K swaps or a friends??? things to look out for?? problems they had??

 

The shifter box that comes with your swap is the stock rsx box, it won't bolt right up, it's going to require cutting and moving it further back. Anyone that I know and just in general that has done the swap has not used the stock RSX shifter box because it's too troublesome and not worth it, they usually go for the karcepts or hybrid racing. The engine harness will not plug up to ur EG, you have to get a conversion harness or splice and rewire the car yourself, which I wouldn't recommend unless you want to mess with a jumble of wires. Axles included, they will have to be modified to fit, they are not bolt in. As far as your friend's type R, I doubt you sat in a fully modified ITR motor (we're talking internal build up with way aggressive cams, valves, retainers, good tune etc etc). Even if your friend did build the ITR to it's fullest potential and you were still not satisfied, you will definitely not be satisfied with a K20a.

I'm just putting it out there because for the most part, people (I'm not necessarily including you in this group unless you were thinking this haha) get this insane idea that after they swap in a k20a2 or K20a that they are going to get extreme amounts of power compared to a semi-built ITR or GSR motor (which can be built and had for a lot cheaper). Although there is a difference, not neck snapping difference, at least not with a honda haha. Before you purchase the motor, I really suggest you really do ALL the research behind this, which means issues with having to modify or take off left motor mount in your chassis, radiator mounts, shifter box issues, clutch line length issue, master slave cylinder issue....etc etc. It's A LOT of work and a lot, a lot of money. I love K20's, but I wouldn't do one JUST yet until they get a little cheaper...it's still too expensive right now. I help a friend slightly build his GSR EG and it kept up with a K20R EG my other friend had at button willow. The GSR had a good tune with his motor set up and definitely could be modified to make more power. Just really make sure you tally up how much this is all going to cost, and by then if you stll want to do it, then we'll all be here to help, well k20.org more so haha.

 

^^^my friend's motor wasn't built to the walls with aggressive power, but it was a better than an average itr swap. it was clean, but just compared to the d16 with small mods in my hatch, i wasn't too impressed with it's preformance.

i figured if i really put the time, money, and effort into a k series build, it would be better than the average itr or gsr build (plus, everyone and their mom has a type r or gsr build nowadays). i suppose i really do need to look a lot further into this subject because yes i'd like to continue building the motor after the swap and not so much drop it in and say i'm done....it sounds like a good challenge to start a k series build but a smaller build might be a lot better in the long run, on my wallet and confidence

now on that subject, the itr or gsr is a b18 right??

 

yup
just bore that **** out or go h22 like i have right now
but i guess start something for now then when you think the time is ready go K. work on your own pace im 17 and got my first honda with a h thats been ghetto the fck out (previous vw's) im almost done fixing the problems that the p.o did and never took care off its been a month and been doing things soo slow.but yea anyways as long as your happy and satisfied thats all that counts.
ps. im going air force soon

 

yeah man you should really start out on a gsr or even an LS swap first just to get your feet wet. I can figure if you don't know the engine code for a gsr or ITR, this is probably your first time dabbing into this stuff. Start small and learn the basic stuff before you jump into a K motor and hack your car in half because K does involve cutting. If you really want gut loads of power for like half the cost of a K...GSR or LS + boost. It'll probably cost the same amount or even a little less than a K and the power is unbelievable. You'll smoke K's all day.

 

i agree that k24/k20s have more potential but to say that straight k20s have no potential is just ridiculous. ive seen many k20 swapped civics in the 12s and 11s, stock internals.

 

^^I agree, K's have potential...although how big is your wallet is the real question haha.

 

good advice. i know this but it's good to hear it from another person.

and the marines are better, but we do need someone to fly us around GL

i wouldn't say i'm an expert, no, but i've had my EK for almost four years now and was about to do a mini-me swap with a z6 head on my y7 but had to deploy, so it didn't happen. i don't know much about GSRs or ITRs though

 

Fo sho, it's all good. I think to truly appreciate a K, you got dabble into B motors for a bit. Did you know spoon built a B16B that ran Tsukuba circuit in 1 min 2 second? The K20a EK that spoon built this time around only did it in 1:05. That goes to show you, B motors can be ridiculously fast with some work up. OF COURSE, this is all up to you. All I ask is just do further research and go from there...although I can see it might be hard with bullets firing around everywhere -_-

 

yes i'll definitely do some more research on the b series and building one of them up. maybe find a cheap swap someone's selling and just part it together this winter when i get home. this has definitely opened my eyes on a post-deployment build.

i'll go find some threads on GSR builds others have done and go from there

 

hybrid racing has a great write up and many of the parts needed for the k swap. also they have a dvd, which i haven't seen but all could be helpful. good day

 

Not 100% positive, BUT i believe if you do the k20 swap i think you would be better getting the tsx exhaust manifold. I was told that because of the shape of the k20 one that you have to do something with the firewall or something to make it fit. The tsx (because its a 24 is a little taller so the exhaust manifold drops down first before it angles back). Thats what im using on my k20/eg

 

b16 ftw!!!

gsr is overrated...

 

thanks for the site! it's been added to the favorites. great K series site

did you buy the EG with the K20 already in it or did you drop it in yourself??

i assume you have a b16? what's your B16 have over a built GSR??

 

My friend had done it before he sold the car to me. I was running the hybrid subharness (which was very good), but its rewired to stock now

 

well i was looking more so on actual builds and not so much "my friend had done it before". i do appreciate your opinion though

i'm more so now looking into a GSR build.

 

Yeah, that's smart. Start slow, and when K's get cheaper, get a K. Plus, next generation Type R's (post FD2) are going to be out in a few years and it'll probably have a newly designed motor that MIGHT fit in our chassis, but at that point, just rock a K cuz they'll be cheap with everyone trying to get the new R24 or M22 whatever it'll be called haha...

OR we might get screwed and the next generation Type R motors won't fit into our cars and no one is going to bother trying and K motors will sky rocket in price because it'll be the last motor that we'll fit hahahah.