ive searched for a couple hours now, and im empty handed.

just to give you some background heres what im working with:

99 honda civic ex.
same harness and ecu (obd2b)
D16y7 bottom from (97 dx)
D16y8 head from (my 99ex)
y8 heagasket, wp, t belt, cam seal
currently running y8 plugs (zfr5f-11) at regular gap, but was told to run a heat range colder, so (zfr6f-11). can anyone verify? was told to run colder plugs b/c higher compression from the head change..

anywho, when the vehicle is cold, you go to take off and between a certian rpm (usually between 3500-4500.) the car will not accelerate. if you stay on the pedal, it barely keeps moving. it will backfire, and act like it wants to die. but even in the middle of this hesitaion, if you push in the clutch, and let it go, it picks up like normal. like nothing happened. and lets say you keep going, and you shift up a gear, and accelerate normaly, it will do that hesitaion crap again in the same rpm range. and so on and so fourth, until it warms up.


now, i have found a couple problems that i feel POSSIBLY be a contributing factor:

1. the spark plugs are in the improper heat range
2. the Air Injection is not properly hooked up (as in, nothing is connected to the nipple off the top of the IM) im not even sure how to hook it up to be honest, or where it goes or what it does haha.
3. the Dizzy cap has 2 bolts broke off in the actually dizzy itself, so its only held on by 1 bolt. but its enought on there, and tight enough on there, that im not sure if thats giving me my problem or not.

so, anyone ever had this issue before? i have changed out the TPS, twice actually, and it did not fix it.

now i have a OBD2A (10-pin) Y7 dizzy, and a OBD1 Z6 dizzy. does anyone have a diagram to wire up either the dizzys on my car? it is a OBD2b 8 pin on my car. from the research ive done, they said even though the y7 dizzy is not vtec, it should still work anyways. ive always heard if you have a vtec car, you need a matching vtec ecu (thats why i picked up the obd1 z6 ecu) i couldnt find a y8 ecu anywhere. i was planning on picking up the conversion harness of rywire, but im too broke after recently replacing the bottom end, then the tranny a week later, both axles, and tons of other random nickle and dime parts..


so, bottom line.

does anyone know why my car is doing what its doing?
and, does anyone have directions/instructions on how to properly match and install a OBD2A 10 pin OR a OBD1 Z6 Distributer on a OBD2B 8 Pin Harness?


Thank you in advanced.

 

Sounds like to me anyway.. you need to get that distributor sorted. It's interesting that you are getting the funky running before it warms up, ie before closed loop. Maybe check the intake mani gasket...

 

yeah, but would the intake mani be a issue only when its cold? and not both. when its warm, its just fine. it has no hesitation or anything.

 

anybody?

 

intake mani is leak free. just checked.

 

Do you have another map sensor you could try? I really think your issue is in that distributor.. Sometimes when the ignitor goes bad it does the mid rpm miss you have, but it shold do it all the time. Did it do this before you swapped the bottom ends? If not you really should go over all your wiring..

 

i think i have another map on a old manifold somewhere. but as far as wiring, ive checked over it all, peeled back tons of loom and tape to make sure theres nothing thats maybe bare, rubbing, but everything looks good..

but yeah, my thing is, why is it only doing it when its cold? i just dont get it. but no, it didnt have this type of hesitation before i swapped the bottom ends, it had a different kind, just like a all time hesitaion.

 

change the map. still does it. tested the coil, its good. ignitior? i have both different styles in my toolbox, but there from a B series. will they fit? not sure.

 

do a compression check ... and tell us the results

 

my car did the exact same but a stock y7. . all had perfect compression but cylinder 3 had 30 ... my car would run but would shutter and wanna die aswell

i blew my timing belt which caused the head valve to be bent ... is your timing set right to spec? did u check the timing on the head? is that ok

did u check that the head isnt warped ? or get it milled
what injectors are you using ..because you need to use the Y7 injectors because the y8 injectors will run you to rich and cause detonation
you can use the y8 fuel rail .. if you knew all that just dis guard it lol

 

Yeah right but you should've just stuck with the y8 ecu since your ride a an EK. All you would have to do is wire it for vtec. Second the reason why it stall like that is because of your dizzy! you need a vtec dizzy. your vtec should kick in about that rpm range that your talkin about. Try that and let me know

 

y7/y8 distributors are the same.

 

x2