Sup everyone,

I have a 95 LS and after having my car sit for about 2 months from breaking down, I replaced my Ignition Coil because the car didn't have a spark and along with that I replaced the rotor and distributor cap. But before the install, the car would at least crank and not start but now when I try to start it, I get no response at all like a dead battery.

What could be the problem now?


Any help is appreciated.

 

bump

 

I would check connection on battery, and grounds and then go from there.

 

check the starter trigger wire, sometimes it can get disconnected when working in that area, also make sure your battery is charged

gl

 

Never heard of the starter trigger wire, where would that be located?

 

its a smaller black wire that goes to the starter with a spade connector on it

 

Are you sure your battery didn't go dead after the two month period of not driving it? I'd look into the grounds and the starter trigger wire as well. Once had the same problem and it was the ground from the stater being disconnected.

 

Well, I just replaced the battery with a fresh one, and I still get no response. Would there be anything else wrong other than that starter trigger wire? Any fuses maybe?

 

bump


need help

 

check all the fuses and by that I dont mean pull one by one, use a volt meter (google it if you dont know what I'm taking about), if all the fuses are good check your ground cables theres two of them one connected to the valve cover and another one to the top of the tranny (use and ohmeter to check the ground cables) if resistance is higher than .8 replace the cables, if the cables are good use a volt meter and check if the starter is getting a signal from the ignition switch, also make sure that the positive cable for the starter is good (again use a volt meter) good luck.

 

potential problem spots:

battery, engine ground, chassis ground, ignition switch, starter solenoid, starter wire (ignition switched +12, "trigger wire"), starter motor, starter motor power wire (+12 from starter solenoid), security anti-theft cutout components, clutch switch, starter cut relay (clutch switch controlled), automatic transmission gear position switch

=> no crank

did I miss anything fellas?

 

Not that I noticed, nice post though

Spark-fuel-compression is what makes an engine start...

 

Battery:
check voltage levels: requires reconditioning/replacement of battery...common problem spot

Chassis ground:
check for continuity between chassis ground and negative battery terminal: requires cleaning of battery terminals, tightening on connection nodes, etc... common problem spot

Engine ground:
check for continuity between negative battery terminal and engine block: requires tightening of connection terminals, solidifying connections, etc... common problem spot

Clutch switch:
check for contact closure to ground while clutch is pressed: requires examination of wires, confirming proper switch position/actuation capabilities, etc... rare issue

Ignition switch:
check for voltage levels at each ignition switch position (with each directional swing): requires replacement... uncommon issue (?)

Starter cut relay (clutch switch controlled):
check for relay actuation with clutch pressed and key turned: requires replacement... uncommon issue (?)

Starter solenoid wire "trigger":
check for +12v on starter actuator wire (and be sure it is connected appropriately): requires reconditioning of terminal, re-examination of probable 'upstream' causes (such as clutch switch, chassis, etc), examination of continuity... commonly, its just loose.

Starter solenoid:
check for actuation of starter solenoid during crank key position (*click): requires reconditioning of solenoid, replacement, etc.

Starter motor power wire:
check for +12 volts at the motor power node: uhhh, I think most times this is internal between the solenoid and starter motor ?.

Security anti-theft cutout components:
check for appropriate actuation control of the anti-theft system relays: requires replacement, more following of anti-theft system wiring, etc.... unknown commonality

Automatic transmission gear position switch:
fill in the blank

Starter motor:
Check for humming while ignition in the start position: if the engine has an extreme load, or the motor is faulty (i.e. the commutators are worn badly and such) it may require replacement... uncommon issue

ECU:
Check for correct ecu control (yeah, I know, vague as hell): often, so socketing/chip jobs can be botched in such a way (i.e. an address pin of the ROM chip be pulled) where the ecu will cut all capabilities and such (?)... unlikely, but possible(?)

=> no crank

I tried to place them in an appropriate order of troubleshooting and may have missed a few. If anyone knows to add something I missed, please do so (I'm sure I can't remember all the details involved). I also tried to make it as generic as possible. Note: my judgment of commonality is solely based on my experience, others may differ greatly...

Good luck!

EDIT: For GSR, order is as follows: ignition switch, security starter cut relay (95-97), AT gear position switch OR starter cut relay, clutch control switch, security starter cut relay, starter solenoid (94,98), starter motor

 

Thanks man, Ill have too look into those

 

is the car throwing a solid check engine light? if it is a computer could be your problem

 

Actually, I have it back cranking now, after the new battery and I realized there was a cable disconnected from the starter.

But now when I try and start, the car cranks then theres a kinda thumping sound from the engine.

I think I might not have put the spark cables back in the right order on the dis. cap. Would that cause that sound?

 

I will also check for clogged/bad injectors, fuel filter, and fuel pump. If it's none of these suggestions including the ones above then it's your main relay. Best of luck.

 

If the engine is turning over, you can ignore most (or all) of my list...

Honestly, I'm not sure about the thumping sound... but it is possible (your car trying to spark in the wrong order could cause adverse effects). If your cables are misplaced, that would definitely be the issue (and most logical if they were removed for your ignition coil changeover.

 

Well before I changed out my coil when I was trying to start it the car was still spraying gas in to the motor so had to check the pistons to make sure the were cool added some oil and fired right up had watch it for a few days

 

Check your Main Fuel pump Relay (make sure its making 3 clicks at #2, when battery light goes out, and when its on the on position )and Fuel Pump(turn the switch to # 2.,put your ear next to the fuel pump and if your here it spin or make a noise like pumping its Ok, don't replace it ), check if your injectors are in good working conditions . GL!