the car ran perfect before we wired vtec, after we finished the wiring i took it on a drive, it pulled fine through vtec till redline, i drove it around a little and no problems, the next day i took it out again but now if im not either accelerating or decelerating the car sputters and jerks, after it does that i have to let off the gas completely and then back on it and it stops for a split second then starts up again. it only throws codes and runs like that after its warmed up, ive checked my vacuum lines and everything looks good. any help would be great! thanks.

i would like to add that my clutch pedal broke so i cant drive it to check any solutions out although it still does the sputtering if im not moving.

 

Turn up the idle.

 

its not an idle issue, its idles perfect, its just if im cruising along at say 3k, thats when the sputtering starts.

 

42 views and only one suggestion....thanks for the help guys lol

 

You didn't say that in your first post... Swap the O2 sensors around, that is your problem (unless you are running only 1, then you NEED the 2nd one duh)...

Easy fix and a common mistake by first time swappers. Also you really should give more information; if you reread your first post it IS a idle issue. Also, it would help if you told us what codes you are getting...

 

yes i realize i didnt give enough details, this is just a hard thing to explain without showing you in person, the codes im throwing are 3 and 7, MAP and TPS, i could try switching the O2, it was throwing a code for the O2 before we wired vtec but once we did it went away so that might make sense. ill give it a try tomorrow and let you know.

 

i have a similar problem, anyone know if i need 2 o2 sensors? im running a d16y7 which should have 2 o2 sensors and heated ones probably, but im running pm6 ecu with 1 single wire o2 sensor on the header since theres only 1 o2 sensor pin on the ecu

 

Well if you have MAP and TPS codes then you should start there. A MAP code could cause your problem, but with my experience it usually shuts off the car around 2,000 RPM. A bad TPS could also be the culprit. If you have bad contacts in it then it could be throttle angle related and not RPM.

I would check and make sure you have a good vacuum source for the MAP sensor; then check the voltage through the TPS range (middle wire). Should start at .5 volts (throttle closed) and go up to 4.5 volts or so (WOT).

 

The answer is obvious; I will answer you with questions.

What controls how the motor runs?
Is the motor mechanical with electrical added on OR electrical with mechanical added on?

 

are you sure that for some reason you got the plugs switched around? since they are the same type of connector? you can try switching them and see what it does

 

^^^^ That would cause some FUNKY stuff.

Project91crxsi- Your ecu controls the engine, if it only has one input for an oxygen sensor, where would you put the second?

 

see my header came with the O2 sensors already installed so the possibility of them being switched is unlikely.....IDK, im pretty lost when it comes to this issue, could it possibly be a wire on the ECU?

 

CHECK UR WIRING AND DOUBLE CHECK, THEN GO AWAY AND TAKE A NAP, COME BACK AND CHECK SOME MORE. SOUNDS LIKE o2 SENSOR, CHECK TO MAKE SURE U DIDN'T SWAP TPS AND MAP PLUGS BY MISTAKE

 

x2 on the plugs being backwards

 

ya same issue for me. i swapped the wires and runs fine now. if your header only has one o2 sensor then you need to add another and use both.

what ecu are you running?

 

yes i have two O2 sensors and the ECU is a OBD0 PW0 i believe. ive been busy and the snow finally struck for the winter so ive been lazy about working on the car.