CAR DIED! P0170 and P0171
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So after turning in my reports at work last night I went to leave and my car didn't make it out of the parking lot. Upon accelerating it wouldn't go past about 2500 or 3000 rpms then it died. I scanned it today and pulled p0170 and p0171. I've tried searching and all related topics have been unresolved...does anyone know what I need to do to get my car running again? Any help is greatly greatly appreciated!!
P0170 is Fuel Trim Malfunction, P0171 is System Too Lean (Bank 1). With both of those coming up at the same time out of the blue, I'd suspect a fuel pump problem. Turn the key off, then turn it to the on position (without cranking) for a few seconds. Can you hear the fuel pump cycle? If not I would check the fuel pump relay to make sure it's working.
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Sorry fellaz, its a 99 em1 with 177xxx miles, intake and catback with brand new cat(oe not high flow) B16a2 ported head and 3angle valve work. Fuel pump was checked first and is priming properly, also checked fuses and all were good. Everyone else that is getting these codes seems to be able to still drive their vehicle, however mine will not fire and I haven't been trying to make it, just to prevent any other potential damage. I just had the timing set one week ago on it. I'm really wondering what could make it not rev past 25-3K rpms and then die. Again, any help is greatly appreciated!
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Also I did run a bottle of lucas fuel injector cleaner through it a week ago... This happened the same night that I filled up with exxon gas as well and I'm kind of wondering if it was related in any way and how I could pinpoint if it was so they can do me the honor of paying for new parts.
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All pressures are good and now I do not have spark... I think my coil blew but not sure. Looking for my factory dizzy now, cleaned injectors(dirty as hell!) And now just tryin to get spark, all fuses rechecked and are good.
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Fuel pump primes, coil is good, msd coil driver is good still no spark after swapping known working parts. Haven't checked the yellow and black wire. What should readings be? And what to do if no power?
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No cel codes, I thought vehicle had to run and post an error twice before it throws a code. Will double check fuse, it did this before and it was a fuse but they all look good thus far. Will triple check them. Also currently have no means of checking voltage other than just shocking myself lol
To test the fuse, a basic inexpensive test light will do. You should register voltage from both test tabs located at the top of the fuse with the key in ON(II).
How do you know the coil is good?
Take the ICM to an auto parts store for testing.
How do you know the coil is good?
Take the ICM to an auto parts store for testing.
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I checked the ign coil fuse again and it is "definitely good". It is not bad. I am trying to find a way to get a test light or something to test if current is getting to dizzy. This is my only car and I'm pretty much Fu*ked right now.
Don't perceive my comments as a personal attack, but I have had people state countless times that their fuses are definitely good but, in the end, their problem was caused by a blown fuse. How do you know that your fuse is definitely good? You need to rule out the simple before considering other possibilities.
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Lol I didn't take it as a personal attack... I have checked the ignition coil fuse 4 times, and it is not blown. I also checked under hood fuse IGN1 (40a) and is also not blown.
Verify that power gets to the coil and ICM, have the ICM checked, and test the Yel/Grn wire running between the ICM and ECU for a short or open.
Also crank the engine for about 30 seconds to see whether a distributor sensor code pops up.
Also crank the engine for about 30 seconds to see whether a distributor sensor code pops up.
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did all of the above and P1359 did not return... checked connections at ECM and distributor, rechecked fuses again and still nothing... this thread is going to quickly move to the For sale forums, i have had it with this car.



