finally got to disassembling my block the other day to find that one of my thrust washers was quite worn along with major wearing on the number five bearings and some minor wearing on 4. i had been having issues with my twin disk slipping so i sent it out to get inspected, but im wondering if these worn thrust washers were causing so much crank walk that it made my clutch slip like crazy. i tried measuring the end play, and came up with about .012-.013". i know its still within "spec" according to my helms, but after doing research it seems like thats still quite a bit. could the worn thrust washers cause premature main bearing wearing, or would it be the other way around? keep in mind these bearing have hardly any miles on them, maybe a few thousand if that. just trying to find the culprit to this problem and see if this was why my clutch was giving me ****. anyone have any experience with this or any input?

 

was there a pedal stop in place ?

 

What kind of engine is this?

I had a similar problem with my twin disc. I would start the car (cold start) while pressing the clutch. This was causing wear on my thrust washers as there was no oil lubrication during this event.

I removed the clutch pedal switch and looped it and problem solved.

 

no other car on the road has their switch looped to avoid this problem and its fine. I would imagine excessive thrust washer wear can cause wierd bearing wear as well...were the washers facing the right direction?

 

In for info...

 

Maybe i didnt explain my self correctly.
To start my car I would have to press the clutch pedal. like any normal car. I found out that by starting the car while the clutch pressed in it (with my twin disk) i was putting force on the crank/thrust washer. This was bad for it especially if the car did not have oil pressure for the first couple of seconds of start up.

So I removed the clutch switch connector and simply looped it. And now im able to start the car with out pressing the clutch.
And theres no force on it.

It did fix the problem I was having.
This is not a daily driven car by the way.

Sorry for the confusion.

 

yeah they were the right way. ive had this similar setup for a few years and had the twin disk for 2.5 years without this problem, but just encountered it this summer. replaced the bearings last winter and saw no signs of this premature thrust wear when i had it apart then on the old bearings.

and no i dont have a pedal stop. im running a compclutch twin and thought they were specifically needed for tiltons or something like that, maybe that had something to do with it because i have also been going through clutch master cylinders about once a year.

this is a b series btw, street driven daily in the summer.

 

i always remove the clutch switch and start up the car w/o using the clutch, as mentioned before having a heavy duty clutch puts unneeded pressure on the thrust washers that is not there with a stock disc

 

You can go to S2ki.com and read all about it on S2000s with just an ACT Heavy Duty Pressure Plate.

 

same thing happend to me at the start of the season, was a new guy to all this, with my cc twin I didnt install a petal stop, after a pass I heard bearing noise so i tore the pan off and one of the thrust washers were badly worn and allowed the crank to walk and started chewing up a bearing. After that I made a petal stop and have never had one problem. But Starting your car with the clutch engaged can do some damage as well.

 

The instructions that come with a comp twin disc say you must install a pedal stop and it gives you directions on how to do it.

 

I know, I opened my box like it was under the xmas tree, lol, so I found it after that, oh well I like to learn the hard way.

 

i really don't understand all of the pedal stop issues all over the place, I've had my CC twin for 3 years without a pedal stop and i have had zero issues with it.

 

The reason you need a pedal stop is that it only takes about 1/4" to disengage the clutch. If you press it any past that, the pedal effort shoots way up, putting more stress on the thrust washers. It is probably different for each person in how they depress the pedal. One person may feel the point where it releases and the next guy may keep pushing the pedal beyond it point of release, putting more stress on the thrust washer. Putting a pedal stop in would allow you to do two things. One would be to keep you from over extending the diaphram and the other would allow you to raise the pedal higher so your foot doesnt have to travel as far, allowing you to shift quicker.
Also, as mentioned before, the car should also be started without pushing the clutch in so the is no dry starts.

 

I dont run a stop i have the clutch adjusted so it dosent push as far, never thought about it taking longer to shift cause the pedel is lower... I thought we wernt using the clutch to shift anymore!! lol good point though.

 

I'm with Spoolin matt on this one.

I have my twin for 2 seasons no issues.

I build my own engines/ customers also (no thrust issues)
I also use twins on alot of cars & yet to see an issue with the twins needing a stopper.

Rob@TPR

 

Amost everybody is using the clutch now. It's just too hard on parts

 

Like I said, it seems to effect some and not the others. Everyone doesn't use the clutch pedal in the same matter. I build my own engines as well and have never had thrust washer issues either. BTW- my car does not have a stop either. However, my suggestion to everyone would be to use a stop and never start the car with the clutch in.