Valve Cover Gasket and rings ?????Help.
1991 Acura Integra. Da9, B18a1. My spark plugs have oil and did my research, and found out i need to replace my Valve Cover Gasket and Valve Cover rings . i have the Valve Gasket and Rings. Now my question is, if any one here has ever done this replacements? what type of glue(not sure about names ect.) i will need for my Valve gasket???. Now my Last question is this one, When i took off the old rings they seem to be attached to the base of wear they sit in, (?) is this because they are old and never been replaced??? or does some kind of glue hold them together ?if so what type of glue???
Sorry if the "glue," thing throws you guys off. I'm sure i have another name, but im bilingual and sometimes things just get all scattered in Vocabulary lol.
Thank You.
Sorry if the "glue," thing throws you guys off. I'm sure i have another name, but im bilingual and sometimes things just get all scattered in Vocabulary lol.
Thank You.
No adhesive is necessary, except you will want a little bit of liquid gasket for the main VC seal. Take off the old seals, and get off any residue that you can. I'd be cautious about using any sandpaper or sealants on the residue, particularly if the head is still on the car, however if you don't get the surface clean you won't get a good seal.
Put the spark plug seals in the appropriate grooves on the valve cover (instead of on the head) and then put the main VC gasket into the spot on the valve cover also. You'll notice that it looks like there are two ways it can go, but you need to put it on only one of those ways. You can tell that there are some extra flat parts of the gasket on one side, those should go on the part of the valve cover that goes near the cam gears. You'll also notice that there are eight flat parts in each spot where the gasket goes up to go around where the cam seals go through. At each of those flat spots you should apply a dab of liquid gasket. Nowhere else needs any liquid gasket.
When you put the VC back make sure everything stayed put and is going in straight. Then clean up the extra liquid gasket that leaked out with a paper towel, after you tighten the VC bolts in the correct sequence. If you don't know what that is I can get out the shop manual and tell you, or maybe someone else will beat me to it with a pic.
Put the spark plug seals in the appropriate grooves on the valve cover (instead of on the head) and then put the main VC gasket into the spot on the valve cover also. You'll notice that it looks like there are two ways it can go, but you need to put it on only one of those ways. You can tell that there are some extra flat parts of the gasket on one side, those should go on the part of the valve cover that goes near the cam gears. You'll also notice that there are eight flat parts in each spot where the gasket goes up to go around where the cam seals go through. At each of those flat spots you should apply a dab of liquid gasket. Nowhere else needs any liquid gasket.
When you put the VC back make sure everything stayed put and is going in straight. Then clean up the extra liquid gasket that leaked out with a paper towel, after you tighten the VC bolts in the correct sequence. If you don't know what that is I can get out the shop manual and tell you, or maybe someone else will beat me to it with a pic.
. Don't want to sound, or be in any way stubborn about your answer, but the Honda Dealer is far from my place. My car is sitting, do to this issue. You think Autozone has, "Honda bond" ? Thank you.
They wont have the actual honda bond but you can tell them that you need something like honda bond, and they will help you find it. If not just do what GagnarTheUnruly said.
No adhesive is necessary, except you will want a little bit of liquid gasket for the main VC seal. Take off the old seals, and get off any residue that you can. I'd be cautious about using any sandpaper or sealants on the residue, particularly if the head is still on the car, however if you don't get the surface clean you won't get a good seal.
Put the spark plug seals in the appropriate grooves on the valve cover (instead of on the head) and then put the main VC gasket into the spot on the valve cover also. You'll notice that it looks like there are two ways it can go, but you need to put it on only one of those ways. You can tell that there are some extra flat parts of the gasket on one side, those should go on the part of the valve cover that goes near the cam gears. You'll also notice that there are eight flat parts in each spot where the gasket goes up to go around where the cam seals go through. At each of those flat spots you should apply a dab of liquid gasket. Nowhere else needs any liquid gasket.
When you put the VC back make sure everything stayed put and is going in straight. Then clean up the extra liquid gasket that leaked out with a paper towel, after you tighten the VC bolts in the correct sequence. If you don't know what that is I can get out the shop manual and tell you, or maybe someone else will beat me to it with a pic.
Put the spark plug seals in the appropriate grooves on the valve cover (instead of on the head) and then put the main VC gasket into the spot on the valve cover also. You'll notice that it looks like there are two ways it can go, but you need to put it on only one of those ways. You can tell that there are some extra flat parts of the gasket on one side, those should go on the part of the valve cover that goes near the cam gears. You'll also notice that there are eight flat parts in each spot where the gasket goes up to go around where the cam seals go through. At each of those flat spots you should apply a dab of liquid gasket. Nowhere else needs any liquid gasket.
When you put the VC back make sure everything stayed put and is going in straight. Then clean up the extra liquid gasket that leaked out with a paper towel, after you tighten the VC bolts in the correct sequence. If you don't know what that is I can get out the shop manual and tell you, or maybe someone else will beat me to it with a pic.

I will read this about two or three times before bed tonight, and ones again early tomorrow morning, just so i can do exactly what you lecture me about.
will update tomorrow or Friday. (today.10/ 28/09)till then ....
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yeah its called permatex high temp silicone gasket sealant http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...et_Sealant.htm
can be found any pretty much any auto parts store.
can be found any pretty much any auto parts store.
yeah its called permatex high temp silicone gasket sealant http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...et_Sealant.htm
can be found any pretty much any auto parts store.
can be found any pretty much any auto parts store.
.ill ask Quick, and make it quick . I got a Cell code #7 .TPS right? its impossible to remove it from the throttle body !!? or is it possible ?
uuh do i need to make a new "thread " for this?
...sorry.
If you have oil on the spark plug's electrode or firing end, it's NOT the little rubber rings that seal the valve cover from the plug tubes.
As for the TPS, you'll have to cut the tops off the rivets and thread the throttle body to accept screws. Omni Power sells an aftermarket TPS so you don't have to go buy a whole throttle body assembly.
As for the TPS, you'll have to cut the tops off the rivets and thread the throttle body to accept screws. Omni Power sells an aftermarket TPS so you don't have to go buy a whole throttle body assembly.
Use a little red high temp RTV silicone on all sides of all of your rubber parts. Put some extra on the corners of the valve cover gasket (see photo) and place all of the rubber parts on the cover. They should not fall out or move if you stuck them there with the RTV.
Here are some photos and torque specs:



Here are some photos and torque specs:



If you have oil on the spark plug's electrode or firing end, it's NOT the little rubber rings that seal the valve cover from the plug tubes.
As for the TPS, you'll have to cut the tops off the rivets and thread the throttle body to accept screws. Omni Power sells an aftermarket TPS so you don't have to go buy a whole throttle body assembly.
As for the TPS, you'll have to cut the tops off the rivets and thread the throttle body to accept screws. Omni Power sells an aftermarket TPS so you don't have to go buy a whole throttle body assembly.

. This info will come in handy tomorrow as well . great tips and Info. thankx again. oh almost forgot, its top side of the spark plug, pretending its placed. when i remove the spark plug cables they show sings of oil all around them as well . So i am almost 100% sure .what you think now ?still something else ?
Use a little red high temp RTV silicone on all sides of all of your rubber parts. Put some extra on the corners of the valve cover gasket (see photo) and place all of the rubber parts on the cover. They should not fall out or move if you stuck them there with the RTV.
Here are some photos and torque specs:




Here are some photos and torque specs:





Originally Posted by DOUBTS.72
its top side of the spark plug, pretending its placed. when i remove the spark plug cables they show sings of oil all around them as well
*Up Date* Today 10/29/09, made a trip to Autozone right after school, bought the valve cover gasket and gasket bond . I cleaned up and removed half of the residue due to the fact that sun light was about to fade away, and i yet had to clean up. Here are some picture to show im reading your Replys and doing as told(Thanx) . I Found some kind of rusted looking brown thing (?) under the valve cover. See for your self and let me know what might have caused it ??? or if i can just clean it up (which i thought i have to do anyways ). Pictures also show that my theory about the oil rings been messed up was true (see the oil around !?)lol glad is that and nothing else .
Thank you to everyone that helped. Will update tomorrow. Hopefully have enough time to finish .
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b.../IMAGE_197.jpg
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http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b.../IMAGE_196.jpg
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http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b.../IMAGE_194.jpg
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http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b.../IMAGE_195.jpg
Thank you to everyone that helped. Will update tomorrow. Hopefully have enough time to finish .
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b.../IMAGE_197.jpg
.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b.../IMAGE_196.jpg
.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b.../IMAGE_194.jpg
.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b.../IMAGE_195.jpg
Last edited by DOUBTS.72; Oct 29, 2009 at 11:34 PM.
........so no one knows what might have caused this?
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b.../IMAGE_196.jpg
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b.../IMAGE_196.jpg
Last edited by DOUBTS.72; Oct 29, 2009 at 11:52 PM.
Is that on the underside of the vc? I had a bit of what I assumed was baked on oil on mine. It made a thin, shiny, rusty colored film that is really hard (and also probably unnecessary) to remove -- unless it's on gasket-seating surfaces, maybe.
Thank you.

Just to reiterate some posts: no sealant is required for the spark plug tube seals. The only sealant needed (preferably honda bond) is at the corners of the valve cover gasket where it meets the cam caps, where the gasket has a sharp edged turn.
You are correct in that the old tube seals were hard to remove b/c they have been there too long.
Ideally you should replace these gaskets every time you do a valve adjustment (30-60k miles).
You are correct in that the old tube seals were hard to remove b/c they have been there too long.
Ideally you should replace these gaskets every time you do a valve adjustment (30-60k miles).
Just to reiterate some posts: no sealant is required for the spark plug tube seals. The only sealant needed (preferably honda bond) is at the corners of the valve cover gasket where it meets the cam caps, where the gasket has a sharp edged turn.
You are correct in that the old tube seals were hard to remove b/c they have been there too long.
Ideally you should replace these gaskets every time you do a valve adjustment (30-60k miles).
You are correct in that the old tube seals were hard to remove b/c they have been there too long.
Ideally you should replace these gaskets every time you do a valve adjustment (30-60k miles).
. Today bought 4 bottles of Castro E. oil and Oil filter. Tomorrow Tune up(did not mentioned "NEW." spark plugs,because i bought some like last week, so Sparks are in good condition
. Hopefully no more Oil light.till then...
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