Progress Rear Sway Bar + Tie Bar
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Is the adjustable one really different ?
What should I have in order to install. Any heads up would be appreciated
Answer:
Non-Adjustable sway is 22 mm
Adjustable sway is 24 mm
What should I have in order to install. Any heads up would be appreciated
Answer:
Non-Adjustable sway is 22 mm
Adjustable sway is 24 mm
Last edited by tweek_boii; Nov 12, 2009 at 03:50 PM.
I've heard good things about the adjustable one but I think it's a bit over kill if you aren't a hardcore guy with a purpose built only for the track race car... I would just get a regular progress bar upgrade which is still very much noticeable and maybe adjustable endlinks and call it a day.
I've heard good things about the adjustable one but I think it's a bit over kill if you aren't a hardcore guy with a purpose built only for the track race car... I would just get a regular progress bar upgrade which is still very much noticeable and maybe adjustable endlinks and call it a day.
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OP - install wise the only thing that will cause problems are the OEM endlinks, they rust like hell and are hard to come apart. Everything else is easy breezy so long as you can realign the lower control arms to get that bolt through. I just use the jack and pry bar to align the LCA with the subframe and push the bolt through. You'll see what i mean when you get there.
I salvaged one of the OEM endlinks, I could've got the other one but I knew I was going to replace it anyway so I just hacked it off with the cut-off wheel

I used the Corsport V.2 endlinks but I'm still not 100% satisfied with them (only $50 for the pair). The Hotchkis endlinks are where it's at but those are big $$
OEM endlinks are prone to breaking with the larger sway bars, they aren't designed to take that much load. I'd recommend replacing them with something.
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Joined: Dec 2007
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From: San Diego, california, Best Coast
I think the adjustable ones come with endlinks, but I'd double check just to be sure.
OP - install wise the only thing that will cause problems are the OEM endlinks, they rust like hell and are hard to come apart. Everything else is easy breezy so long as you can realign the lower control arms to get that bolt through. I just use the jack and pry bar to align the LCA with the subframe and push the bolt through. You'll see what i mean when you get there.
I salvaged one of the OEM endlinks, I could've got the other one but I knew I was going to replace it anyway so I just hacked it off with the cut-off wheel
I used the Corsport V.2 endlinks but I'm still not 100% satisfied with them (only $50 for the pair). The Hotchkis endlinks are where it's at but those are big $$
OEM endlinks are prone to breaking with the larger sway bars, they aren't designed to take that much load. I'd recommend replacing them with something.
OP - install wise the only thing that will cause problems are the OEM endlinks, they rust like hell and are hard to come apart. Everything else is easy breezy so long as you can realign the lower control arms to get that bolt through. I just use the jack and pry bar to align the LCA with the subframe and push the bolt through. You'll see what i mean when you get there.
I salvaged one of the OEM endlinks, I could've got the other one but I knew I was going to replace it anyway so I just hacked it off with the cut-off wheel

I used the Corsport V.2 endlinks but I'm still not 100% satisfied with them (only $50 for the pair). The Hotchkis endlinks are where it's at but those are big $$
OEM endlinks are prone to breaking with the larger sway bars, they aren't designed to take that much load. I'd recommend replacing them with something.
http://www.clubrsx.com/cr/PRO-62-0103.html
Originally Posted by Progress Technology
Size: 24mm
Adjustment Range: 2 holes
End-links Included: Yes
Progress Suspension anti-roll bars dramatically improve handling. How? They minimize the traction-robbing body “lean” that rolls part of the outside tires off the pavement. Our Sport-tuned Anti-roll bars replace skinny OEM bars and rubber bushings with larger diameter (stiffer) alloy steel bars and polyurethane bushings. More roll stiffness means less body “lean”, and the tires stay flatter on the pavement (larger contact patches). The result is more grip and added driver control! Less body roll means more traction, faster cornering speeds, and increased driver confidence. Polyurethane bushings produce crisp response on turn-in. Progress Anti-roll bars are cold-formed in-house using our custom-built precision bending equipment. Both laser-cut and CNC bar ends are MIG welded in place using a precise fixture for an exact fit.
***Note: Box is considered oversized for shipping
***Note: Actual product may be different than pictured
Adjustment Range: 2 holes
End-links Included: Yes
Progress Suspension anti-roll bars dramatically improve handling. How? They minimize the traction-robbing body “lean” that rolls part of the outside tires off the pavement. Our Sport-tuned Anti-roll bars replace skinny OEM bars and rubber bushings with larger diameter (stiffer) alloy steel bars and polyurethane bushings. More roll stiffness means less body “lean”, and the tires stay flatter on the pavement (larger contact patches). The result is more grip and added driver control! Less body roll means more traction, faster cornering speeds, and increased driver confidence. Polyurethane bushings produce crisp response on turn-in. Progress Anti-roll bars are cold-formed in-house using our custom-built precision bending equipment. Both laser-cut and CNC bar ends are MIG welded in place using a precise fixture for an exact fit.
***Note: Box is considered oversized for shipping
***Note: Actual product may be different than pictured
I've experienced some issues with this setup - a week or so after the install, the bar punched a hole in my gas tank filler hose and subsequently dumped a bunch of fuel onto my garage floor. I figured that the bar was sitting to high on its mounting points, so I loosed the bolts, pulled to the lowest point possible in the center and tightened everything back up. Luckily, I haven't had any additional issues...
I've experienced some issues with this setup - a week or so after the install, the bar punched a hole in my gas tank filler hose and subsequently dumped a bunch of fuel onto my garage floor. I figured that the bar was sitting to high on its mounting points, so I loosed the bolts, pulled to the lowest point possible in the center and tightened everything back up. Luckily, I haven't had any additional issues...
Thread Starter
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From: San Diego, california, Best Coast
The non adjustable not only is it non adjustable, its 22 mm
and the adjustable version is 24 mm
Very surprising !
and the adjustable version is 24 mm
Very surprising !

24mm is rather aggressive for the street, if you aren't prepared to handle it.
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ilvi3tkidxx
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Feb 27, 2009 01:24 AM





