Hey guys,

I'm thinking of buying the Koni/Ground Control combo with maybe the tophats. Can someone recommend me a spring rate for EM1 for street use? I'm after at least 0.5 - 1 finger gap between the fender and wheel and 2 finger gaps at the rear. I'm on 195/55/15 profile and its going to be daily driven so nothing too harsh or too **** to get over speed bumps/driveway and it won't be tracked.
noob question but is the koni shocks height adjustable?

Much appreciated

 

350/300. The stiffer the rear's are the more harsh its going to ride. If your not going to race or anything 250 may even be acceptable but i would play it safe and get 300.

 

if you don't want to corner or anything i'd just take ots rates, 300r might be a little stiff.

 

for f350/r300. I have f425/r350 for my teg and its pretty stiff but it allows me to go pretty low. I wouldn't get the top hats unless you plan on being dumped, its a waste otherwise.

 

cheers guys! keep them recommendation coming, pictures would be great!

 

I think you might bottom out on decent bumps with a 350lb/in up front. Actually I'm sure of it, on my DC4 with a 1" gap in the front and 375lb/in I'd smack my uca often enough for it to **** me off.

I recommend at least a 400f 300r set up. It will be just a bit rough up front when you stiffen your shocks, but you WILL be able to tune it out by softening them. You'll have a good range of damping adjustment with that front rate.

The rear rate should be pretty comfy, though you may want to think about a higher rate or fatter sway bar for handling purposes....ah I'm rambling now, lol.

 

400f 300r and go with the top hats just for the front.

 

right now I got 450f/400r and its not that bad to me..

if im full stiff in the rear then it gets pretty harsh, but I dont mind it at all...

in the end its really up to you..

 

what do u mean by bottoming out?

 

Generally, "bottoming out" is when the shock fully compresses during suspension motion and stops further compression from happening even though the bump was severe enough to want to keep moving the suspension.

To be more general, it means the point when anything prevents further suspension motion in compression, whether its UCAs hitting the shock towers, coil spring binding, anything that stops the suspension from compressing further.

In a perfect world, you'd never find yourself needing more suspension travel than you have. In reality, we often do, and that is "bottoming out".

 

^ thanks for the info. bump this up, i need more suggestions!
post ur spring rates on EK/EM1 and how many finger gaps between the wheel and fender youre sitting at.

 

Koni/GC Setup 300F/250R...Just installed 2 months ago. I was going for the same exact thing you are, and I love the setup. It's a daily driver, and the ride quality wife-approved. I have the GC's adjusted all the way up on the front and rear, and it's plenty low for my taste.

 

Note: I daily drive and track my car

I have 375f/450r for mine. When I had the OTS springs (375f/300r) they were good for DD. I wish now I had gotten 450f/500r, but oh well.

My car is lowered to where fender and wheel meet on 195/55/15 tires. The fronts would slightly rub while in good dips in the road. When I changed tires I got 195/50/15 and no more rubbing happens at the same ride height.

Just be sure to get the bumpstops for all 4 corners and the tophats for the front. The fronts need the most shock travel compared to the rear.

 

Wife Approved is important! Roadrace springs get old on the street in short order.

 

go 12k front 8k rear
Thats standard function and form type 2 for ur car which is what i have
If u want it to ride nice dont get sleeves. my car rides better than my parents bimmer but ive put alot more attention to details than most

 

how many finger gaps is that?

 

finger gaps!! That's how I like explaing the height too.

 

GC offer 3 sages the first of them is for street its not to harsh but now too soft where you would feel like your in a Cadillac. Call GC and just ask them what they would recommend. I think that you should keep your stock tophats if you don’t want the ride to be to hard.

 

Top hats don't effect the ride. Unless you bottomed out on your stock tophats, then the extended tophats effect the ride by not letting the shock bottom out. Trust me, you want the extended tophats for the front, unless you like destroying your shocks.

 

when would you say it would be good to get extended top hats? Recently I've installed Buddy Club N+ dampers and I'm just about flush w/ fender and tire. In the feature I may want to go lower, I don't know yet. The buddy clubs adjust height from the bottom perch and not from the actual spring so would E.T.H be necessary?

 

are you trying to dump your car? the shock travel retained through preload being uneffected should be enough unless you're trying to REALLY dump it.

 

I don't think I'll end up really dumping it. I put my steelies back on so I don't know what my 16's look like on it yet. I'll probably just have it tucking a little bit. I was just curious when top hats would be needed.

 

i'm on 350/250 1/4 from full stiff. very tolerable with 22mm itr rsb
handles amazing even with falken 912 tires
1 finger front and rear, bottomed out once going 70mph with 4 people in the car on the freeway from a huge dip

 

3 sages? like the three wise men of ground control? what wonders do they have in store...

 

I'm considering 375f/300r. Are they gf approved? Should i be needin tophats with these rates?