I have 95 Accord ex with 265k miles . When we first purchased it, the oil pressure light would come on intermittently. I changed the oil sending unit and it stil camr on but not as much. I switched to a better filter and it only comes on (rarely) when down a qt. of oil. I run regular 5w-30. should I run a thicker oil or switch to synthetic? The car runs greats and get 30-35 m.p.g.

 

1. Try not to run your VTEC engine down a qrt of oil.
2. Clean the oil screen that is located between the VTEC pressure switch/solenoid and the cylinder head.

Why are you down a qrt, are you leaking oil or burning it?

 

5w-30 is what it's designed for.
Your engine is trying to tell you something is wrong. Sludge build-up maybe? Excessive internal clearances?

If you want to mask the symptom you can go to a thicker oil to maintain idle pressure ASSUMING YOU LIVE IN AN AREA LIKE ALABAMA, where it doesn't get very cold

P

 

your oil pump may be on it's way out...................

does the engine make wierd noises or burn oil?

 

How often does it go until you notice that it is down a quart of oil?

 

In my experience, switching from regular to synthetic in an engine that is already using (leaking/burning/disappearing/etc.) oil between oil changes will almost certainly drive the consumption rate up. Simply switching my Accord (which does a disappearing act with engine oil) from Full synthetic to a synthetic blend cut my oil consumption roughly in half. I'm contemplating a run of good 'ol conventional soon to see if the oil sticks around even longer.

I'm with everyone else here...if your engine is consuming oil, try to find where or why it is consuming the oil rather than masking the problem with heavier oil.

 

As an addendum to what I offered earlier; there are two unrelated conditions which can cause the oil pressure lamp to illuminate.

The first relates to your oil loss situation. You would expect the lamp coming on whenever you turn hard. The "G" forces would force the remaining oil to creep up the crankcase/oil pan's side and momentarily uncover the oil pump pickup.

If, however, it comes on while sitting there idling; the problem could be more problematic. The oil pressure sensor is calibrated to come on at a surprisingly low pressure. (between 5 - 7 psi I believe) If your idle is constant at 700rpm, then I would suggest that you may well have an internal issue.

At the very least, I'd suggest having someone put a mechanical oil pressure gauge in place of the sensor to determine (get a second reading) just what you're dealing with.

P

 

I don't let it get low on oil often. We have driven it like this for two years now. I change the oil around 2.5k. Its my wife's ride and shes kinda hard on it. It doesn't burn any oil out the tailpipe . I lose about a pint every 2k miles. The engine does have a slight tap when cold but no louder than our old accord that never had a oil problem. I'm in southwest Pennsylvania and in Jan. we have some single digits temps so that's why I stay with the 5w-30. I just did a timing belt/water pump recently and when I removed the valve cover, everything was oily but the rockers had a crusty thin build up on them. I did notice once, I was fallowing her and she gunned it from a stop and light black smoke came out at high r.p.m.'s but no blue smoke. Then I blew past her in my Volvo and she couldn't catch up.

 

Wheres the oil screen that can be cleaned?

 

you need to remove the VTEC solenoid valve to clean the oil screen, The helms manual show another(oil screen) behind the VTEC solenoid housing, remove the housing to check that filter. If that does not correct the issue proceed to P ADAMS suggestions. Do you know where the VTEC switch is?

 

no. where it is?

 

Only suggestion i can brainstorm is to take a pic of your engine bay, that way it'll be pointed out to you.

 

Intake or ehxaust side? I have a haynes book, would it be in there?

 

IIRC it's on the intake side of the head. Mounted right beside the distributor.

The two items highlighted in red are the filter/gaskets. The top is the solenoid gasket (12) and the bottom is the VTEC pressure switch & spool valve filter & gasket (10). A gunked up pressure switch filter (10) seems to be the one that gives people the most oil pressure issues. Clean up the entire valve body & filter and that may help with your oil light problems.



Honda recommends replacing them, most people try an clean them first.

 

Any idea on prices? Thanks for the helpful advice. Honda's are not my field. If its European, I'm your man.

 

Spool valve filter Assy. Part #10 = 15825-P0A-005 - $10 - $15
Solenoid Base gasket Part #12 = 36172-P0A-005 - $2 - $5

Online Honda parts dealer or local dealership.

 

If I need the sensors, are they available aftermarket? Are there anyway to test sensors w/o going to the stealer? thanks again man.