ok ive got a civic with a h22a swap with the skunk2 pro series intake manifold that deletes the egr valve, and i was wondering since it deletes the egr valve and blocks the port will there be exhaust gasses flowing around in my head? i wonder because i took off the oil cap and started it up and a **** ton of air came out but ive got brand new rings and valve seals and the egr problem seems like my only solution? if anyone has input just let me know.....Thanks.

 

We sell catch cans that you can use to help collect that sludge from entering your IM.

You can tap off the OEM PCV tube on the back of the valve cover and run a line from there to our catch tank. (3/8" Barb Fittings)
OR, you can even use our dual -10AN fittings, welded to your valve cover to releive the crankcase of higher pressure levels (if your boosted/FI etc.).
Here's a pic!

http://www.s2carbonworks.com/tfvacobrcaca.html

 

^^^ that is your best bet, catch can fixed my blow by issue, i blocked off my egr and it runs fine with the catch can

 

Basically, the catch can eliminates crank case pressure build up, which causes the oil to "blow by" into the IM.
A sealed catch can will NOT help as it's just another reservoir with pressure building up.
Our Breather tanks have an internal baffle, and allow the crankcase to breathe, while collecting any oil residue/vapors that may accumulate in the lines etc.

 

yeah mine has a breather on it

 

this statement is not completely ture, yes it is easier and what not to use an open atmosphere catch can, but no-one takes into consideration the moisture that gets into your oil because of this.

you can use a closed catch can and dump what runs through it into our exhaust.

check out the catch can thread it will give you plenty of ideas of what to do, i ran a open atmosphere on my b16a civic and after just a month or so there was so much build up of white milky sludge from moisture getting into the oil im surprised my car even still ran.

and yes my headgasket was good and compression was the same across the board.

 

Just empty your catch can regularly.

 

so i should go with a sealed catch can? not an open atmosphere one?

 

my vote is for atmosphere one.
and i think S2Carbonworks will agree will me

but like sohctodohc said do a search on catchcans and research what will work better for you

 

well im gonna look into that when i get back home today, does anyone have any links to some catch tanks that are well priced and good quality? im not experienced in them at all and i dont wanna get a junk *** one and be f*cked

 

Ours are one of the few that is hand made here in the USA. Our tank is also baffled, so it's very hard for oil to get out of the unit, unlike most other tanks out there that are NOT baffled. For the $$ you can't beat it!

 

the price on yours is very reasonable compared to others as well!

 

im not talking white stuff in just the tank itself, im talking bout in the lines in the valve cover everywhere. that filter allows moisture to build up inside everything.

 

For any car that is turbo or F/I, do you honestly think that people are going to drive 5K miles on that oil?

My turbo car, I change the oil every 1500 miles. What tiny ammount of moisture that would accumulate inside the engine (if any) is immediately burned off and evaproated when you drive the car. Moisture cannot stand the intensity of the heat inside the engine, leaving the moisture to only accumulate inside the catch can.

Problem solved, point blank.

 

Very true, that is why people should not run their engines without a thermostat or a flow restrictor plate for coolant.

 

ive seen what they can do and refuse to ever have another open atmosphere catch can. say what you will keep promoting your product and saying there wont be any problems. i feel sorry for the customer when he picks this up.

and for the record your a fool for changing your oil every 1500 miles...

and another fyi go check out www.bobistheoilguy.com good website, you will see that when water gets in the oil it creates the white film im talking about. this white film doesnt just disappear, this is why i also had to pressure wash the bottom side of my valve cover out to get all of the **** out of it.

anyways good luck OP

 

when you installed your rings did you deglaze or hone your block out because that is a lot of blow by and there will always be some blow by no matter how well built an engine is. usually the ring manufacturer will tell you what kind of finish they want with their rings. and if you had a properly functioning pcv system you wont have to worry about the blow by.

 

well if the car is turbo there is no such thing as a properly working pcv system as the pcv itself closes under boost.

 

does it really lol. So thats probably why i Burn oil under boost haha.