I have a 1992 hatch that i recently did a full gsr swap in. It has a skunk2 intake manifold, full msd ignition, straight exhaust and stage 5 clutch. I brought it to a shop to have them check every thing over and dyno it. The guy called me and said that on the last dyno pull, the clutch sounded like it gave out. He said that the best previous run it made 137 at the wheels. I was thinking I should be around 170whp with that set up. Could it be that the clutch going out was causing me to lose around 30whp? Any ideas???

 

buddy put 142 with a b16 lol
loose the msd it isnt doing anything for this car, a stage 5 clutch? talk about over kill...
did you have it tuned or just dynoed??

 

Stock GS-R's have 135-140whp, and can go above or below that range if you're lucky or unlucky.

 

what kind of clutch are you running (brand)? sounds like there is some power loss through slipping, but the guy running it should know if thats the truth or not. also is it a dynoTUNE or just pulls?

 

sounds about right, it's only rated at 170-180 at the flywheel, most stock b16's are putting down 130 at the wheels, your torque should be alot higher then a b16. like 98civdx said loose the msd, and also put on a good exhaust it needs some back pressure to operate properly

 

i think its a cusco. 4 puck. it is supposed to be dyno tuned...so why take off the msd, it can only be helping not hurting, right? oh, and the stage 5 because it will be eventually turboed

 

ive never herd of a stage 5 with a 4 puck just never herd of that but it could be slipping i had a stock clutch on mine and its boosted and i lost about 40 horse because of slipping but i put a compititon stage 4 6 puck and it hooks up so hard im breaking it in and 1st gear just letting the clutch out it will wheel hop i suggest that because im making 200 some horse

 

for a car such as this it wont really add anything, but a whole in your wallet.

also what ecu are you runing? is it chipped?

a stage 5 clutch is way overkill for this type of car, turbo or not, i suggest pulling it and putting a exedy stage 3 in. that should be plenty.

 

a stage 2 in a gsr is even enough it will pull real hard competiton stage 2 6 puck is a decent clutch but a stage 5 if it didnt slip and grabbed gears as hard as it should your gonna loose alll your gears stage 5 is for about 500 horse

 

well, im glad to know that 137 isnt all that bad for that setup. as far as the msd goes, it came with the shell i bought for the swap. and the clutch, i got a good deal for it. thanks for the replies, if anyone thinks of anything else, feel free to post, the more the merrier

 

oh and 98civdx, i had him dyno it unchipped just so he could get a few kinks out with the air/fuel ratio. he's gonna tune it now chipped

 

lol stage 5 doesn't mean anything without knowing the clutch manufacturer. People like reading higher numbers when buying a clutch for some reason. If there were two clutches and both held 400lbs of torque....if one was called "the rice burglar stage 18" and one was called "the kung fu racing stage 85", most people would just go for the "stage 85" because it's a larger number.

It's called marketing.

The Exedy Stage 3 is not only very expensive, but might also be overkill. I have a Stage 3 Hyper single in my S2000. The reason I bought it is because I got it brand new for DIRRRTYYY cheap and it came with a flywheel. It's a really fun road race clutch. They retail for around $1200+. I wouldn't pay retail for it without absolutely needing it. It's also a PITA to drive around in traffic till you get used to it. My friends call it my car's "On/Off" switch. Because that's seriously what it is. There's a good amount of ballet involved in driving the car on the street....which I barely do anyway. There are also a lot of hilairous noises ranging from a panther noise (slipping it to take off), to a chattering noise (entire driveline shaking from taking off), to a LOUD *** buzzing noise (decel in gear). They also don't come with a throw out bearing.

Not the best DD/street clutch. Luckily, my S2000 is nowhere near my DD.

OP...you seem to have bought into a lot of hype. You can't get 170whp from just I/H/E/IM, ignition, and clutch on a B18C1. The MSD ignition may or may not hurt the power. It probably didn't add any, though. 137whp sounds low...but dyno numbers really don't mean too much.

Every dyno is different. Every run is going to be different. Where the dyno is located matters. How the dyno was set up matters. You're supposed to use dyno runs as a baseline to your mods or for tuning.

 

^count me in for the rice burglar 18!!!^