EF8 B18c Conversion Problem.. Clutch.
Hi Guys,
Currently doing a B18c7 (Australian Delivered) conversion into an EF8 CRX and have discovered a problem with the clutch. I have opted to stick with the cable clutch set up and are using the ITR gears.
I am using a YS1 gear box converted with the 98 ITR gears + LSD and are using the type R clutch + YS1 bearing. My problem that I have is that the clutch won't engage, I thought it might be the fly wheel or pressure plate but they seem to be fine, at least I think so...
I have asked many Australian based members on our Honda forums and can't get a clear answer as this is not a very common conversion done here in OZ.
So my question is what do I need to do to get this problem fixed? What clutch combination should I be using? Any help or ideas would be appreciated as this is the only thing holding me back from finishing the car.
Jordan.

ITR gears going into the YS1 Box.

Complete Box.

The engine ready to be installed.

Engine bay awaiting the fresh Motor.
Thanks in advance.
Currently doing a B18c7 (Australian Delivered) conversion into an EF8 CRX and have discovered a problem with the clutch. I have opted to stick with the cable clutch set up and are using the ITR gears.
I am using a YS1 gear box converted with the 98 ITR gears + LSD and are using the type R clutch + YS1 bearing. My problem that I have is that the clutch won't engage, I thought it might be the fly wheel or pressure plate but they seem to be fine, at least I think so...
I have asked many Australian based members on our Honda forums and can't get a clear answer as this is not a very common conversion done here in OZ.
So my question is what do I need to do to get this problem fixed? What clutch combination should I be using? Any help or ideas would be appreciated as this is the only thing holding me back from finishing the car.
Jordan.

ITR gears going into the YS1 Box.

Complete Box.

The engine ready to be installed.

Engine bay awaiting the fresh Motor.
Thanks in advance.
too bad the mass in the left corner of the bay ruins the complete and perfect shininess of the rest of your components. VERY SHINY. I like it.
Thats a pic from about a week ago, the fuel system has been replaced with an Earl's in line filter and a wire tuck is almost complete.
Here's a pic of the old B16A SIR motor.

BTW is this in the correct thread or should it be in another??
Jordan.
Here's a pic of the old B16A SIR motor.

BTW is this in the correct thread or should it be in another??
Jordan.
Can you be more specific with what you're experiencing? Example: What happens when you push the clutch in? Will the clutch allow you to put the transmission in gear with the car running? List as much as you know.
And to be clear, the engine/trans have been installed, you discovered the issue and pulled it all back out?
I did the same transmission conversion as you, well almost, I have '97 ITR gears/LSD in a YS1 case. I have zero issues with mine.
And to be clear, the engine/trans have been installed, you discovered the issue and pulled it all back out?
I did the same transmission conversion as you, well almost, I have '97 ITR gears/LSD in a YS1 case. I have zero issues with mine.
Can you be more specific with what you're experiencing? Example: What happens when you push the clutch in? Will the clutch allow you to put the transmission in gear with the car running? List as much as you know.
And to be clear, the engine/trans have been installed, you discovered the issue and pulled it all back out?
I did the same transmission conversion as you, well almost, I have '97 ITR gears/LSD in a YS1 case. I have zero issues with mine.
And to be clear, the engine/trans have been installed, you discovered the issue and pulled it all back out?
I did the same transmission conversion as you, well almost, I have '97 ITR gears/LSD in a YS1 case. I have zero issues with mine.
Im pretty sure your 97 spec is almost identical. What clutch combination have you used in your conversion??
Jordan.
I believe the 98 spec has a higher final drive? Its been a while so I may be mistaken, but regardless it should basically be the same for what we're discussing.
I used a clutch kit for a 92-93 Integra, but 94+ should be the same, except for the throw out bearing, which you specifically stated you're using a YS1 bearing. My flywheel is an act streetlite, but all B series should be the same and interchangable. If what you say is true about your clutch, I would say your issue doesnt point to the clutch itself, unless its no longer in usable condition (very, very old).
When you pushed the clutch pedal in, did you feel any resistance, if so, how much? Did it feel like a normal clutch but not act like one? How old is your clutch cable? It could be stretched, but doubtful. Also, to get the simple stuff out of the way, did you put the 12mm bolt in for the clutch fork? Ive known a few people who forgot that, which results in zero pedal feel (no resistance).
Somewhat unrelated, but did the inside of your YS1 case need to be clearanced for the ITR LSD? All the write ups Ive seen show this step but mine dropped right in, no grinding/clearancing needed. Just wondering..
I used a clutch kit for a 92-93 Integra, but 94+ should be the same, except for the throw out bearing, which you specifically stated you're using a YS1 bearing. My flywheel is an act streetlite, but all B series should be the same and interchangable. If what you say is true about your clutch, I would say your issue doesnt point to the clutch itself, unless its no longer in usable condition (very, very old).
When you pushed the clutch pedal in, did you feel any resistance, if so, how much? Did it feel like a normal clutch but not act like one? How old is your clutch cable? It could be stretched, but doubtful. Also, to get the simple stuff out of the way, did you put the 12mm bolt in for the clutch fork? Ive known a few people who forgot that, which results in zero pedal feel (no resistance).
Somewhat unrelated, but did the inside of your YS1 case need to be clearanced for the ITR LSD? All the write ups Ive seen show this step but mine dropped right in, no grinding/clearancing needed. Just wondering..
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Im using a brand new type R clutch, type R fly wheel and YS1 bearing.
When the box is off the motor I can pull the clutch lever and see the bearing move. Im pretty sure the 12mm bolt is in correctly. The clutch pedal pushed almost all the way to the floor before I felt any resistance, this resistance was very very minimal and the pedal did not spring back.
As for the clearance I had to machine/grind the internals of the YS1 box a little.
When the box is off the motor I can pull the clutch lever and see the bearing move. Im pretty sure the 12mm bolt is in correctly. The clutch pedal pushed almost all the way to the floor before I felt any resistance, this resistance was very very minimal and the pedal did not spring back.
As for the clearance I had to machine/grind the internals of the YS1 box a little.
Ok, so the bolt is not the issue.
From your description regarding the resistance at the very end the pedal travel indicates to me its a cable issue. Clutch cable adjustment is critical. I know you said you adjusted it but what you are feeling is typically what an improperly adjusted cable feels like. Im sure other factors can cause a similar issue but none come to mind right now, besides the cable. As i stated before, perhaps its over-stretched? I know everything is out of the car, but you should have watched the arm actuate as you operated the clutch pedal. Being able to observe a full range of motion could help right now.
As for my cable, im using a 88-91 Civic Si sohc cable. My car is LHD though. Either way, your original application cable should theoretically work just fine.
I wonder if using the 98+ spec differential requires the grinding? I was shocked when mine fell right in and cleared everything! Only thing i needed to do was reshim the diff.
From your description regarding the resistance at the very end the pedal travel indicates to me its a cable issue. Clutch cable adjustment is critical. I know you said you adjusted it but what you are feeling is typically what an improperly adjusted cable feels like. Im sure other factors can cause a similar issue but none come to mind right now, besides the cable. As i stated before, perhaps its over-stretched? I know everything is out of the car, but you should have watched the arm actuate as you operated the clutch pedal. Being able to observe a full range of motion could help right now.
As for my cable, im using a 88-91 Civic Si sohc cable. My car is LHD though. Either way, your original application cable should theoretically work just fine.
I wonder if using the 98+ spec differential requires the grinding? I was shocked when mine fell right in and cleared everything! Only thing i needed to do was reshim the diff.
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