1995 model
1.6L VTEC
MT 2dr

Okay for a while my car would take a little longer than normal to startup cold, I didn't really think anything of it since it's an older car. Shortly after that whenever it was started it bogged down for maybe... 5 seconds after I was pulling out of the driveway and then was fine. I drove it early one day, stayed at a friends for a while, then got in to go, it did the usual long crank, and then as I was backing up it bogged and then died. Started right back up and bogged erattically all the way home. It's like you press the gas, bog, bog, and then it finally catches up and then bogs again. Also, the spedometer goes crazy, unless the clutch is engaged, and the tach will randomly drop to zero, with the RPM's not actually changing. The car Idles just fine.

I have new plugs, wires, cap, button, FF, Intake has been cleaned, IACM has been cleaned.

Also the battery has been discharged somewhere between last night and today. I push started the car, and let it run for maybe 15 minutes and it wouldn't start back. But any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Come on people...

 

i dont have to read ur post to know. its the tps or iacv.

i have a h22 civic and i have the same problem, i have my iacv turned off with crome. so in the warm days car runs fine, but in the cold it bogs down. what i do in the cold is drive it for a bit til the motor heats up and turn it off and then on and the cold 7 goes away runs perfect again. it has to do with the intake air temp being too cold.

 

This sounds like a classic case of ground problems

 

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Sounds a lot like a plugged fuel filter to me.

 

He said he changed all this I mean it could b a lot of things but I would start with checking and/or cleaning my grounds.

 

Well, I was actually leaning towards this, I just wanted to throw the ideas out to you guys to see if anyone has a 100% answer. This does seem like what it could be but I'll try cleaning grounds first. Thanks for the reply

 

The Fuel filter is brand new. not saying that this couldn't happen, but it's ran fine for about 3 weeks with the new filter on.

 

I'm gonna go with this idea first, since it's cheap and easy. There's a lot of grounds I can see, but does anyone have a diagram as to where ALL of them are? Thanks for the idea man.

 

well see I've thought of that also, but to me if the fuel pump wasn't working corretly, the car would fluctuate RPMs even while idling, but it idles fine. But I really can't rule that out.

 

The ground that matters most is the one on the back of the thermostat housing, if its not connected the engine wont run (its the only groundoing point for the ECU)

 

Any CEL codes?

Have you checked the ignition timing with a timing gun?

The odd behavior of the tachometer suggests a problem with the igniter unit in the distributor.

 

Okay I think I've glanced there before, that's behind the vtec solenoid isn't it?

 

No cel's I've even manually checked with the jumper method. See it is possible that one of the sensors in the dist considering the crank and cam sensor is built inside it. I'm just trying to narrow it down, especially since a new distributor is 299.99

 

I just had this problem and RONJ helped me out. IT ended up being my map sensor. And my FITV being extremely dirty. But with the weird speedo problem i would suggest grounds too. Hey ronj, I believe it was you that said that there are some wire that are behind the engine that when touch the engine throw symptoms like that. Im just suprised that the backup fuse hasnt blown

 

6th gen but not 5th gen Civics have a TSB for a common wire harness short on the intake manifold bracket. The OP has a 5th gen Civic though.

 

cleaned the grounds on the Power steering, near the headlamp area, and thermostat housing, no such luck.

 

go to picknpull and gut another DIZZY. It cost me 14 dollars for an ignitor and coil. It took me approx.. 3.5 secs to install. try this out OP it may save you the headache.

 

If your fuel pump is going out the RPMS wont fluctuate necessarily. Your fuel pump could work fine when not under pressure but when you make it work it could give out and bog. Usually a bog consist of the intake valve being open for air but no fuel is coming through. After you rule everything else out check the FP. Oh I just read the prob...haha I suggested map sensor as well woohoo!!

 

Out of all the suggestions. I've narrowed it down to the alternator. I was just looking at everything under the hood, while playing with the throttle, and the alternator sparked and started smoking, even if this doesn't fix the problem (I'm sure it will) this is obviously a serious problem anyway.

 

Let us know what it ends up being. My car has similar symptoms sometimes. It eats batteries (thank you Honda for giving me 3 free battery replacements in the last year) and it bucks/bogs once in a while... I have a TPS CEL a lot of the time though

I'm going to try cleaning my grounds now

 

Don't ignore the TPS code. I think that replacing/adjusting the TPS or repairing the TPS circuit would fix your problem.

 

Sounds like D Griff has something staying energized all the time too.

 

I've replaced the whole tb twice, replaced the wire, even had it looked at by the honda dealer.. it's a mystery problem