When I bought the car:
Front:
-22mm swaybar
-Cut itr springs on stock shocks
Rear:
-Mugen N1 Coilovers with 650lb springs
-Mugen 26mm swaybar
(front end twisted too much, inner tire useless)

Expo 8 Setup:
Front:
-GC extended hats
-24mm swaybar
-500lb GC
-8041 Koni
-Password JDM 3pt bar
-Full Race Traction Bar
Rear:
-Mugen 26mm swaybar
-Cpillar bar
-Rear strut tower bar
-450lb GCs
-8040 konis

Setup 3:
Front:
-24mm swaybar
-500lb GC
-8041 Koni
-Password JDM 3pt bar
-Full Race Traction Bar
Rear:
-Mugen 26mm swaybar
-Cpillar bar
-Rear strut tower bar
-MFactory spherical bearing camber kit
-Function7 LCAs
-450lb GCs
-8040 konis
-Benen rear lower tie bar

Today:
Setup 2:
Front:
-24mm swaybar
-450lb GC
-8041 Koni
-Password JDM 3pt bar
-Full Race Traction Bar
Rear:
-22mm swaybar
-Rear strut tower bar
-MFactory spherical bearing camber kit
-Function7 LCAs
-450lb GCs
-8040 konis

Tomorrow:
Setup 2:
Front:
-24mm swaybar
-Stock ITR springs
-8041 Koni (lower setting)
-Password JDM 3pt bar
-Full Race Traction Bar
Rear:
-22mm swaybar
-Rear strut tower bar
-MFactory spherical bearing camber kit
-Function7 LCAs
-Stock ITR springs
-8040 konis (lower setting)

***Question is, would the mugen 26mm rear swaybar disrupt the handling of the car as far as predictability with the last setting listed?

 

Anyone?

 

What do you mean by "disrupt" ?

Obviously that big rear bar is going to make the rotation greater. I use one too. Are you asking id it is going to make it any greater or less?

 

I think you will be OK

If you had a stiff *** spring rate in the rear you would probably have some nice tail slides here and there. I am assuming you want the car to stick though and I believe the Mugen 26mm bar will help rotate the car in turns and not slide with OEM springs.

 

I read before that of course a big rear sway bar is good, but it's more important to get stiffer springs first. Plus, I'm sure the springs are supposed to be stiff enough to handle a bigger swaybar. I just want input, or if anyone has any experience. Was it Move Over? That had the mugen lowdowns and 26mm rear sway that spun out at VIR for expo 8?

OT question, what were the rates of the lowdowns again?

 

Let's clarify some things here, because it sounds important for you and others who will read this.

1. A big rear sway bar isn't "good". It performs a specific function, which is essentially to make the car more tail-happy. This is only "good" if you want it to do that, and know how to drive the car like that. Joe Newb on the street most likely doesn't, and could potentially get himself into trouble with such a setup. It is also completely unnecessary for a dedicated street car. You can get plenty of rotation, safely, with a much less dicey setup.

2. The big rear sway will have a greater "effect" the lower the rear spring rates. As you go up in rate, the bar will have less work to do. While I haven't driven both of the setups you're describing back-to-back, I'd imagine the stock spring one would cause the bar to have the greatest "effect" possible.

3. Just because one guy spun out somewhere one time with ANY setup does not mean it is problematic. Almost definitely such an occurence was driver-related. The Mugen Lowdowns are relatively soft. See #2 for the explanation, and then #1 for the reason why that might not have worked in his favor.

So now the important part. You've apparently had that rear bar for awhile, and probably have a feel for it. Most likely it won't dramatically "disrupt" the balance of the car according to what you're used to. If you don't have much track experience (I have no idea if you do or don't), it could bite you in the *** in a panicky situation though, or any situation involving a turn where you lift throttle abruptly.

Unrelated, WTF would put Mugen N1s on the same car with stock shocks and cut springs?

 

Wasn't me

 

Yeah, I saw that you bought it like that, just wondering what tool it was